Rear Tub Gasket 4036ER2004A

Official part for LG, Kenmore

★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)

Easy 

More than 2 hours 

3522855-1-M-LG-4036ER2004A-Rear Tub Gasket
Part Location Diagram of 4036ER2004A LG Rear Tub Gasket
See part K125 in the diagram
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
3522855-1-S-LG-4036ER2004A-Rear Tub Gasket 3522855-2-S-LG-4036ER2004A-Rear Tub Gasket 3522855-3-S-LG-4036ER2004A-Rear Tub Gasket Part Location Diagram of 4036ER2004A LG Rear Tub Gasket
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$47.25
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About This Part

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Part #4036ER2004A
Manufactured by LG for LG, Kenmore
Proudly Canadian Official OEM Fast Shipping 1 Year Warranty

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About this fix

Common problems and models this part fixes.

Easy 

More than 2 hours 

Rated by verified customers

What this part fixes:
  • Leaking
  • Burning smell
  • Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
  • Spinning Issues
Works with the following products:
  • Washer
  • Washer Dryer Combo
  • Dryer
Part# 4036ER2004A replaces these:
AP4438637, 4036ER2004A, 4036ER2004C, 4036ER3002A

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★★★★★
★★★★★
Pierre G - March 20, 2022
  Verified Purchase
easy to order and repair
part was the correct one, fit perfect and fast delivery
  • 1

Repair Tips

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!

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More than 2 hours 

Average repair rating from 16 real customers like you

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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Bearing seal out causing bearings to get wet and very noisy
70 of 74 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Todd from STOCKTON, KS
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Watched a short video to figure out to remove panels. After panels were off I removed as much as I could from the inside of the machine. This was not completely necessary however for an extra half hour it made inspection, cleanup and removal of tub housing out the front of the machine much easier. Once out, I split the two halves of the outer basin and sprayed the spider shaft with penetrating oil. Using a brass drift I did have to get a bit aggressive to drive spider shaft out, then I used a heavy metal punch to hammer out the bearings. For those who may not know using brass or a soft metal will keep from damaging reusable parts. At this point it was cleanup time, with dish soap I scrubbed the two halves of the outer basin and the wash basin itself then used emery cloth on the bearing casing and spider shaft. I am a firm believer if u take the time to cleanup properly things go back together much easier. At this point I began to reassemble, replacing tub bearings and seal, the wash basin then putting the two halves of the outer basin back together. I strongly recommend replacing gasket for the halves of the outer basin, for as much as it takes to get there it is money well spent to up the chances of a leak free system. Now with the wash tub back together it was time to reset the tub and hook everything back up. I skipped a lot of steps but if a person pays attention, takes pictures if they have to, even numbers lines with a sharpie it is a very easy repair. Very easy but very time consuming. I am DIY’er, in all I spent about ten hours over two days to do this job. Thus being said I am very particular spent a lot of time cleaning, scrubbing looking at as many wear points and checking for rubbed wires. Hope this helps someone out there, definitely not a strong writer or like doing it. Oh one other thing, I ordered the shocks on the bottom side of wash tub just because I guess not thinking they were bad just thinking I could help tune it up. Was surprised to find the old ones were completely shot, was glad I ordered new ones. After repairs, noise is gone and machine is quiet again. Thank you, your website is very easy to find parts and order.
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Dry bearing noise, rough bearing, very loud in spin cycle
33 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cherie from PHOENIX, AZ
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I went online and looked at the different parts companies for this brand of washer. This is an LG Tromm steam washer. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I watched videos on this machine which you can also find on line and U-Tube and took down some notes that I felt relevant for the disassembly and the repair. I looked at the break down parts schematics and ordered all the parts I felt I needed for this machine. The parts I ordered were the tub hub seal and the inner and outer bearings that go on the spindle shaft which is connected to a piece they call the spider that connects to the inner tub. I also ordered the outer tub o-ring where the outer tub splits in half. Note that I mentioned the spider and that they have a tendency to corrode bad, but you cannot see it until it is disassembled, the parts I ordered are reasonable, the spider can cost upwards of a hundred plus dollars so make sure you evaluate the cost of parts to the age of your machine and to the cost of a new one. Well on my front load washer when I finally took it apart and I felt I got lucky with just the two spindle hub bearings and the seal and the outer tube seal. After looking at the videos and taking some notes, written and mental, I started the disassembly of the washer. First " unplug the power to the washer". the next step is to shut off your two water supplies to the washer and disconnect the hot and cold water lines, note that I disconnected the lines at the washer just for the convenience of not having those lines hanging off the machine and out of your way. another note is that you will want an area with some space so you can keep everything organized and give yourself some room to work. Once you have your machine moved to a open space, start by removing the top of the machine. there are two screws, 4 total in the back of the cover that are removed with a plastic bracket on each side, these are Phillips head or cross type screws. once removed, take the top and shift it back about 1 to 1.5 inches, you then can lift the top off and out of the way. The next step is to remove the front control panel by starting with the wire connectors that go into the control panel. Each connecter is different so there is no mix up. next is to remove your soap dispenser tray, on top of the tray about in the center towards the back is a spot that you gently push down on and this will release the tray for removal and move it out of the way. There are two Phillip screws on each side where you removed the tray that need to be removed to be able to remove the dispenser section out of the way. there are hoses connected to the dispenser but once lifted up an out you can lay the dispenser with the hoses connected over towards the back. There is a large rubberized hose connection that needs to be removed which has a clamp on it that you need to loosen up to take loose the connection. back to the front control panel there is one more screw on the back side on the right side looking at the front that must be removed then the front control panel assembly can be removed. there are some plastic clips on the control panels back side that need undone, gently and be careful not to force these clips but slightly lift up on the rear of the control panel and it should come out of there and then set the control panel aside. There are I believe 6 screws on the top of the front door panel assembly that need removed but before you do that down on the left bottom corner you have a panel door which pops open then is easily removed out of the way. there is a small rubber line with a plug in the end of it which can be pulled a little ways. Get a container that is low profile and pull the plug on the hose and direct it into the container, you may or may not get any water out of it, it is the tub drain. reinstall plug when done and put line back in place. Next take the pump screen out by unscrewing it out counter clockwise like a bolt, it is about 1.5 inches in diameter, you may want to put a small towel down in front of it because you will usually get a little water out of it. Once removed, inspect the plastic screen for any debri and remove it and reinstall the screen. Now down in that same area below the screen there is a Phillips screw which needs to be removed and set aside. Now you go to the rubber boot behind the washer door when the door is open on the outer edge there is a metal wire that goes around the boot to hold it in place with a spring on it. You want to gently take a flat blade screw driver and not to tear the boot, work that wire and spring out of its groove and remove it out of the way. now you may take the rubber boot on the front and take it off its edge and push it back in towards the tub. Now we go back to the six screws at the top of the panel and remove them. at this time you should be able to lean the panel out enough to disconnect the wires to the door latch. Once the door latch has been disconnected, lift up on the front door panel and bring it out
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washer grinds while running
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mark from REEDSVILLE, WI
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
as expected, the rear bearings were GONE!.. hard part was removing the inner tub from the outer one. hint... put the bolt in the shaft, tighten and pond the crap out of it ... takes time but the tub will come out, after that it's easy
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Loud grinding noise, especially during the spin cycle.
10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from CUMMING, GA
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First I watched several videos on YouTube, numerous times. When I started to disassemble the washer, I put the parts I removed on the floor in the work area in the order I removed them. I also took a couple of photos of where wiring and hoses went so I would have a reference the next day (I took parts of two days to complete the repair).When I removed fasteners (screws, etc), I labeled them as to what part they went with, making re-assembly easier and faster. The most difficult part was re-installing the wire retainers on the door bellows (make sure you use some liquid dish detergent as lubricant). The results were great, I have a like "new"washer now.
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Washer sounded like the 3:10 to Yuma was rolling through the laundry room when the washer hit the spin cycle.
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from YUMA, AZ
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Google LG washing machine bearing replacement, you'll find a very informative video narrated by a British gentleman who will walk you through the steps. If you are even a slightly handy DIY'er this is an easy job although very time consuming. Take your time with reassembling the machine. I missed a couple of connections and while testing it out I flooded the laundry room. Could have been avoided if I had taken a picture of every individual item I disconnected.
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The washer drum sounded like a plane taking off in the mudroom.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Woody from RED HOOK, NY
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Started with some resin paper on the floor, some painter’s tape, and a sharpie to keep track of screws and removed parts (painter’s tape to stick hardware to). Set up iPad on dryer and followed every step by step instruction by pausing the video. The instructions were perfect (but would have liked some more close up shots). Installation of new bearings was exactly as demonstrated and truly appreciated the step by step descriptions to put it all back. Hardest part of the repair was replacing the wire ring on the rubble gasket — only step not displayed. Suggestions for future repair videos: 1) how to organized hardware as removed; 2) more close ups; 3) a video showing the problem at the start followed by a video showing post repair. As a visual person, I have spend the past few days watching the spin cycle wondering if there is a wobble or shudder etc… Similar to the feeling of buying a used car…every clunk or shudder gets you worried. Love that I saved $1000 plus taking on the repair.
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Very noisy when tub was spinning , tub bearings and seal were bad.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from CENTRALIA, KS
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Watched a YouTube video on how to disassemble the washer step by step, replace the bearings, and reassemble the machine. was very helpful.
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Dry bearing noise
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ROBERT from BETHLEHEM, GA
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I researched the symptom, watched a repair video, ordered the parts: one rear bearing, seal, and gasket. After disassembly found inner bearing to be bad. Ordered inner bearing. Then found the spider or hub shaft corroded, and ordered spider. Finally with all the parts replaced, assembled washer and returned it to service.
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Very nosey
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lonnie from JACKSONVILLE, FL
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replace both bearings and seal also replace spider gear due to the bearing seal surface damage,also replace drum gasket and door gasket and all shock absorber.The clean up two more time then the repairs did.
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Bad/worn drum bearings
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from DUBLIN, OH
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Followed the step-by-step video, you end up taking most of the washer apart. Got the drum out & apart, then ran into a wall with the bearings. Couldn't get them out - acted like the housings were frozen. Took all the pieces of the washer to the curb for garbage pickup.
I never opened the replacement parts and will be returning them.
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DIY Questions and Expert Answers

3 questions answered by our Repair Experts.

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Ken - For model number kenmore 796.4027
December 15, 2022
The machine was unbalanced during spin cycle when it started to smoke with about six minutes left in the cycle. It came out of the top between the control panel and the frame. There was more smoke inside the drum. Could you tell me which gasket it was more likely to be? The rear gasket or the door gasket? I did not notice any burn marks on the front gasket.
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Ken, thank you for contacting us. The rear tub gasket, part number PS3522855, is more susceptible to burns due to an unbalanced spin than the door gasket. We would also recommend replacing the washer tub bearing, part number PS11711138. Customer service is always available to help you place an order if you are having trouble doing so. Good luck with your repair.
$60.45
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Washer Tub Bearing, Rear
2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Don
October 24, 2022
Clothes are getting a black stain after washing, rubber gasket at door is suspected. We clean the gasket within two weeks more stain to clothes. Is there somewhere else the black stain could come from? We suspect mold collecting on the gasket
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Don, thank you for your question. We have researched your issue and found that the main culprit here is fabric softener. Most fabric softeners are oil-based, and if too much is used, or added too soon or late into the cycle, or hits your clothes without being diluted enough, it will cause oily streaks on your clothes. The second most likely issue is that the mold often grows when water doesn't dry around a faulty seal and it will leave a stain when clothing touches it. Try cleaning it with white vinegar, but if that doesn't fix the problem, you may need to have the entire gasket replaced. Let us know if you have further questions!
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Dan - For model number Kenmore HE3 Plus
January 14, 2025
Hello, I am looking for a bearing seal for my Kenmore HE3 Plus washer and was wondering the dimension of the 4036ER2004A part you have listed on your website (inside and outside diameter + thickness in mm)?
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Dan, Thank you for reaching out. This Seal is approximately 2.9" x 2.6" x 0.5". We hope this helps!
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This Part Also Fits These Models

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Rear Tub Gasket
$47.25
In Stock
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