Part Location Diagram of WH2X1198 GE Tub Bearing
See part 309 in the diagram
Replacing your General Electric Washer Tub Bearing
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Tub Bearing

 Fits your HTWP1000M0WW!
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$34.99
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 Fits your HTWP1000M0WW!
PartSelect Number PS271510
Manufacturer Part Number WH2X1198
Manufactured by GE
Product Description

Tub Bearing Specifications

This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you may need to replace the tub bearing. This bearing is made of metal, and is approximately 3 inches wide and 2 inches tall.
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Part Videos

Replacing your General Electric Washer Tub Bearing

Replacing your General Electric Washer Tub Bearing
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Leaking
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint.
Part# WH2X1198 replaces these:
AP2045289, 279136, WH02X1198
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Customer Reviews
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 2.1 / 5.0, 19 reviews. What's this?
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Main seal leaking & burned bearings on & in transmission
Outrageous bad design for GE. We bought a SS tub washer but during repair found hidden aluminum components as 'wet' support structures, with massive corrosion; GE's SS tub is a fraud. Main seal went bad after 2 years, washer has a drip pan - no wonder, the problem was hiden for another year while parts burned up. Replacing transmission is basically simple if you have a large hammer and pipe wrench to remove the left hand turn aluminum main holding nut. Replacement parts were okay but we are going to sell washer & dryer immediately because of bad design - it will be a good machine for someone else for a couple years.
Other Parts Used:
Transmission and Brake Assembly Hub Nut
  • Gregory from Mountain Home, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
72 of 101 people found this instruction helpful.
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Loud noise, burning smell during spin cycle
The video with Steve is invaluable. I followed the video to replace the tub bearing. Had to jump over to the tub seal video to make sure I got it seated into the outer tub correctly. The tub bearing video skips past the seal part. Be aware that the video cut aways can be a considerable amount of time. Highly recommend a few things: 1) if you think you need to replace one of the things on my parts list (bearing, washer, seal, etc) then just replace everything at once. It's not worth it to try to reuse old nasty parts. All of the parts + 1 11/16 spanner wrench came to around 60 bucks. 2) get the washer out of its confined area and give yourself some room to work on it. I took the time to shuffle it out into my garage and setup a table to spread out the parts and tools. This procedure is a complete washer dismantle job. So take your time and be patient. 3) the aluminum hub nut is a bugger. I had to use penetrating oil and make a couple of small angled cuts with a hacksaw to relieve the tension between the nut and transmission shaft. 4) the main lower tub bearing (bushing) was also a bugger and all gummed up and rusty. Be very careful getting it out. You don't want to ruin the integrity of the outer tub cavity that it goes into. Light taps and patience using the butt end of a hammer and flat blade screwdrivers. From beginning to end, with a few breaks to let the penetrating oil do its thing, it took about four hours. I took my time, reviewed the videos throughout that time, and I've never worked on a washing machine before.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Split Ring Hub Washer Tub Bearing Washer
  • Gary from QUEEN CREEK, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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Very Noisy In Spin
When disassembling I could not remove the 1 3/4" tub nut with in house tools and had to order the spanner wrench. Almost mandatory unless you have a socket wrench.
Other Parts Used:
6-Rib Drive Belt Tub Bearing Washer Tub Dampening Strap
  • Robert from HOLLAND, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water leaks on floor in front of machine.
Worse machine ever made. Installed all parts per videos .they helped a lot. Inner tub went on crooked and first wash ruined inner/outer tubs top piece. Took to dump.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Split Ring Hub Washer Tub Bearing Washer Hub Nut
  • Kenneth from MESA, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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I had a bad tub bearing and tub seal.
I had no difficulty dismantling the washer until I got to the hub nut. It was frozen to the cone shaped fitting it was resting in. I had to take a drill and a 3/16" drill bit and drill the flange of the hub nut and then take a chisel and break it off piece by piece. Once that was off, I lifted the tub out and tried to pry off the split ring under the tub and it too was corroded and broke when I tried to pull it off. So I would advise you to buy a hub nut and a split ring if you are replacing the tub bearing, just to be safe. I went to an appliance parts store here in town and bought them. When reassembling the tub, I couldn't get a wrench or pliers on the hub nut to get enough torque to tighten it securely. And since I didn't want to spend $43 to buy a spanner wrench for a one time repair, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $15 dollar adjustable wrench and cut 3 1/2" off the handle so it would lay flat to the tub and used a hammer to tap on the handle to tighten it securely. If you do not find some way to tighten the tub securely, it will come loose in the spin cycle like it did on me twice before I purchased the adjustable wrench and modified it to work. Plus I still have a useable adjustable wrench. Additionally, I took the washer cabinet, the tub and the tub sleeve and power washed it to get years of grime off of it. The washer now operates like new, saving me hundreds of dollars.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Tub Bearing Washer
  • Troy from N CHESTERFLD, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Very large noise during spin cycle
Tub seal was found completely broken. Replaced it.
Then replaced tub bearing, tub bearing washer, shaft & mode shifter assembly and 6-rib drive belt.
Reassembled and tried, more quieter and like new machine.

Loosening tub nut was a challenge as it was bit corroded, use of WD40 was a great help.
Knowledge from you tube was a great help.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly 6-Rib Drive Belt Tub Bearing Washer
  • Ashok from CUPERTINO, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Noisy while spinning
I dissasembled the machine and it took about 30 minutes. Orderd the parts recommended for noisy spinning. Reinstalled the new parts / changed all drum straps. Cleaned the drain drum and spin drum and after complete reassembly the washer is still noisy in agitation and spin cycle. The motor,transmission,counter weight,and drum look ok but there is still a reason why the machine is still noisy. Spent 120.00 dollars on parts so far but the drum and motor,transmission and counterweight are very expensive to replace. I am just going to keep using the machine until the washer fails to work anymore. I'm not going to put any more money in the washer. I will just buy a new one. It's not hard to dissasembled and reassemble the washer. I purchased the parts that was recommended to fix the washer but they were not the ones.The new parts did help like the tub seal but the bottom line is that the washer is still noisy. I watched your videos to work on the washer and there were no special instructions on disassembly and reassembly. Like always there must be more than i know to repair this washer. Thanks
Other Parts Used:
Dual Action Agitator Tub Seal Split Ring Agitator Coupling Screw - 1/4-20 MCH HXW 5/8 S Water Pressure Switch Hose Hub Washer Tub Bearing Washer Tub Dampening Strap
  • Thomas from SELAH, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water leaking from between inner shaft and outer shaft of assembly and teeth worn off of clutch assembly
Followed instructions from video for shaft and mode shifter assembly and tub bearing, all went as in video except extremely difficult to remove tub nut. Could not get nut to loosen and when it did finally move it was spinning the whole shaft, had to have the shaft held with a pipe wrench from underneath (2nd person). The tub seal was another issue, removal was easy just as in the video but because water had gotten inside the seal it caused the internal metal of the seal to corrode and rust which deformed the old seal and the plastic of the tub where the seal sits. There was no way the new seal would go in and be tight enough to seal so I put a hose clamp around it, heated the plastic with a heat gun just enough to be able to tighten the clamp several times, let it cool and removed the clamp. It held its shape and the new seal went in snug so I proceeded with the reassembly. Test ran the washer and checked for leaks, no leaks. It has been a week now and approximately 10 loads of clothes cleaned, all is good.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly
  • Dean from GLEN BURNIE, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Very loud noise when washer was in spin cycle
Followed video on You tube that showed step by step how to compete repair.
The machine used in video was brand new and there was no corrosion on any parts so disassembly was much easier in video than on 9 year old machine.
Also reinstalling drive belt was a little tedious but overall job very straightforward and resulted in positive improvements in performance and greatly reduced noise levels.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Bearing Washer
  • Michael from Manahawkin, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Noisey during spin cycles
Followed videos on partselect.com for changing tub bearing. Video does very good job of showing steps required. Repair would be easy if washer was new. First problem was conical tub nut could not be loosened even applying penetrating oil and heat. Finally resorted to 1/2" drive pneumatic impact gun (wrench) which hammered about 10 seconds before the nut came loose. Had to purchase 1-11/16 deep well 6 point impact socket at cost of about $30 for this task. Second difficulty was removing tub seal whose exterior rubber coating had apparently failed and the seal internal metal parts corroded causing it to expand. The tub seal had to be beat out from the bottom side using a drift. The next difficulty was removing the tub bearing which had corroded from minor leakage through the tub seal. Corrosion made the tub bearing outside diameter (OD) larger so it could not be removed using the method in the video. The outer tub bottom side was supported as close to the center as best possible and a socket just smaller than the tub bearing OD was placed on top of the bearing and was used to drive (hammer) the tub bearing out. There was a lot of cleaning necessary especially on the inner tub conical fit areas where tub rides on the split ring and hub nut. During reassembly the tub seal did not have a press fit into the tub; it was barely finger tight. I suspect the tub had permanently distorted in the seal area because the old tub seal had corroded and expanded. So silicone sealant was applied to the outside diameter of the tub seal to assure no leakage around the seal. I allowed that to cure overnight to be certain the seal would not move when inserting the shaft and mode shifter through the seal. A very light oil was applied inside the tub bearing. The last problem found was when tightening the bolts holding the base frame to the outer tub the base frame was pulled to one side so the mode shifter was not concentric with the base frame. This would place a side load on the mode shifter shaft and tub bearing. This was resolved by placing a 1/16" thick washer between one leg of the tub and base frame which maintained the base frame concentric to the mode shifter as the tub to base frame bolts were tightened. The repair is conceptually easy to perform but was challenging due to corrosion and detergent residue from 11 years operation. Now the washer rotating parts are essentially new, the repaired assembly is probably better than the original factory assembly, and the washer should operate for another ten years before the mode shifter bearing goes out again. A longer repair than anticipated but time and money well spent. Being retired helps.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly Split Ring Dial with Compression Ring Timer Knob 6-Rib Drive Belt Hub Washer Tub Bearing Washer Hub Nut
  • Daryll from MURRYSVILLE, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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Tim
October 22, 2017
My washer sounds like it’s taking off into space during the spin cycle, it is so loud we can’t hardly function.What might be the cause and what part might need to be replaced?
For model number Gtwn5050m0ws
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Hi Tim, Thank you for the question. In most cases this woudl indicate a problem with the Tub Bearing Part Number: PS271510. It is also a good idea to check or replace the seal, washers and nuts that sit down with the bearing. Split Ring Part Number: PS1766022,Hub Washer Part Number: PS271511,Tub Bearing Part Number: PS271509,Thrust Washer Part Number: PS2355963 and the Hub Nut Part Number: PS271505. Hope this helps!

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Matt
February 6, 2018
Should the plastic rim on the top of the stainless inner basket be filled with liquid? Dry as a bone on the outside and doesn't leak out no matter how it's oriented.It's magic! Stamped with "part no. 175d2125 cav. 2
For model number gtwn3000m1ws
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Hi Matt, Thank you for the question. Yes the water is suppose to be there. It is filled with water during the manufacturing and then sealed. it is to help with balancing the tub. Hope this helps!

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Andy
August 31, 2017
My washing machine makes a grinding sound when the agitator turns. It does not make the sound when it is in the spin cycle. I took the front off and can't seem to determine where the grinding is coming from.
For model number WHRE5550K2WW
PartSelect logo
Hi Andy, Thank you for the great question. If you have a grinding noise during agitating you will need to replace the Pulsator Coupling. It is located just under the agitator. Good luck with the repair !

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Donald
January 9, 2020
When changing the tub bearing it seems like there should be some type of lubrication in that bearing to prevent it from seizing up on the shaft. What type of lubricate should I put in the bearing?
For model number HTWP1200D0WW
PartSelect logo
Hello Donald, Thank you for the question. GE does not list or recommend a lubrication for the Tub Bearing. For more specialized assistance or to speak with someone about this, I would suggest calling the manufacturer of the appliance directly. We hope this helps!

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Michael
March 26, 2019
My tub is loose and i tried tightening but the 1 1/16 nut keeps backing off, the split washer looks a bit worn. The tub bearing looks to be ok. Why would the nut keep backing off?
For model number HSWP1000M4WW
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Hi Michael, Thank you for your question. The nut may be stripped or damaged and it will likely need to be replaced. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Charlie
November 30, 2017
When going into wash cycle, & agitator is trying to engage, machine makes metal on metal noises, & tub starts shaking, turned it off & on about six times, it worked ok for 3 loads; then 4 th load started shaking & metal noises again ? Teeth on agitator & agitator coupling are fine, drive belt is good. Thanks,
For model number WJRR4170G2WW
PartSelect logo
Hi Charlie, Thank you for your question. It sounds like you may want to check your tub bearing and your shaft and mode shifter assembly. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Joyce
November 19, 2017
My washer has a very loud grinding sound during the wash cycle only. How can I resolve that?
For model number GLWN2800D2WS
PartSelect logo
Hi Joyce, Thank you for the question.I suggest removing the agitator to check the Agitator Coupling,PartSelect Number PS1482517 to see if the grooves are wore down and rubbing creating the noise.Hope this helps!

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CHRIS
October 16, 2019
My washing machine has several levels such as: Delicate, hand wash, medium wash and heavy wash. The agitator changes speed only when it goes from: Medium wash or heavy wash to delicate or hand wash. Even then, on delicate or hand wash, it is still agitating too fast. What could be the problem?
For model number WCRE6570D1WW
PartSelect logo
Hello Chris, thank you for your question. It sounds like the issue is the machine control board. We would recommend replacing PartSelect Number: PS960632. I hope this helps!

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Richard
January 8, 2020
The washer is extremely noisy only during the spin cycle
For model number WBB4500E1WW (S/N: GH147875G)
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Hello Richard and thank you for writing. It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty tub bearing PS271510 and/or a loose or a faulty tub dampening strap PS271100, you should check for signs of damage, and replace if necessary. Don t forget the bearing washer PS271509 if you decide to change the bearing. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.

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Sandy
October 11, 2019
My machine does not leak or make noise when spinning. It makes a laege noise when washing what parts do i need to replace
For model number wpre6150k1wt
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Hello Sandy, thank you for inquiring. This Tub Bearing would be the most likely cause. You will also want to consider the Drive Motor, part number PS2577721, or the Pulsator, part number PS5135709 for your model. Good luck with your repair!

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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS271510
Manufacturer Part Number: WH2X1198
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