ZCSP480DMBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

If you have a reverse osmosis system for filtered water system in your home that also feeds the refrigerator, using another water filter in the refrigerator is redundant, so GE makes a Water filter Bypass Cap that allows you to run using the already filtered water without needing to expensive water filter. FIRST - using a phillips screw driver remove the toe kick plate at the bottom front of the refrigerator - two screws - one on each side of the plate that extends the entire width of the refrigerator. SECOND - Locate the water line (should be right in front) and the valve to turn off the water. Turn valve clockwise (right) until completely closed. Then test by attempting to fill a glass with water using the dispenser on the door. If any water continues to come out, continue turning the valve (without forcing it) clockwise until it has been turned as much as possible. If water still comes from dispenser, locate the source of the water line - most likely from under the kitchen sink. There should be another valve under the sink, or simply turn off (turn the cold water valve clockwise) until water cold water completely turned off. Test again as required. THIRD - clear the top right hand back shelf directly under the water filter screwed into the ceiling of the refrigerator in the rear top right side of the refrigerator. Place a small towel under the water filter, and slowly turn the filter 1/4 turn clockwise without using force. Continue turning until the full 1/4 turn is complete and the filter will drop down without pulling. Place the old filter upside down in the sink, thereby allowing the filter to drain any water present in the filter. FOURTH - remove the filter plug from package, notice notches in top of plug that align with gaps in the area where a filter would typically be screwed into the filter location in the ceiling above the top right shelf in the refrigerator. After aligning notches in the bypass plug with gaps in the screw mechanism, carefully turn the bypass plug 1/4 turn counter- clockwise - at which time the bypass plug should be firmly installed. FIFTH - Reverse step SECOND, and turn valve Counter-Clockwise until valve is completely open. Test to ensure no water is leaking from the Bypass Plug. SIXTH - Finally reverse step FIRST by reattaching the toe kick plate using the two phillips screws removed in Step FIRST. NOTE: The Bypass Plug is quite inexpensive, but after adding shipping from Canada - the cost is about the same as purchasing a new filter for the refrigerator. :-(

Take the face (the part with the buttons on the outside) off, disconnect wired connectors (three), take the screws out of the part behind that (4), and then find the solenoid value (on the right). It's attached with three screws. Mine was rusted beyond belief. I knew this was the problem, ordered a new solenoid valve, put it back in place with three screws (use new screws that fit, not the old rusty ones if possible). When testing, make sure you give the flap a couple of seconds to close. There is a delay, and I initially wasn't patient enough so I had to disassemble and assemble an extra time because of this.

Simply put: If your solenoid value is rusted and the value won't operate smoothly, order the part and install it. This is as easy as any repair could be.

remove the front of were the ice and water comes out
then un scerw 4 scerw and the solenoid slides out unhook the wires and put the new one in

Moved stuff out of my way on the top shelf, reached in and turned old filter to remove. Filled new filter with water, lined up and turned to lock in place. Whew, never thought I would get that job done. :-)

Following the advice of others on this site, I popped out the control panel by pushing up through the 2 outer-most holes on the under-side of the panel (the middle hole is unused). I installed the new solenoid exactly as shown in the PartSelect video. The new crank, spring, and flapper installed easily as well; I did apply a little grease to the hinge points on the crank to ensure no binding. I also installed a new microswitch. The wires are best removed from the old switch with a needlenose pliers. The old switch looked like it had some grease on the switch (where it makes contact with the cup lever) so I put some grease on the new switch as well. All-in-all, very easy and the frig works like new. It's nice to hear the flapper slam shut 4 seconds after dispensing ice.

looked at the video you supplied for repair.. that made it so easy to repair the problem. I felt quite confident in myself after the video.The repair went smoothly and the refridgerator wotks super thank you so much Rick

Remove ice maker and all of it's accessories in order to remove the panel covering the fan. Don't drop the screws!
Unscrew the lower fan bracket. You will see the lower red rubber grommet. Hold fan motor with one hand and push the fan off the shaft and into the compartment above. Then remove the round retainer thing below it by holding it and pulling down on the motor assembly. Install new grommet on upper part. and put it all together.
REMEMBER where the fan is on the shaft. It has about one inch of shaft placement. I put mine so that most of it was above the hole that the fan goes into and about 20 percent showing below the sheet metal.
Also check to see if your fan is damaged. Mine was not.
This refrigerator has been awesome! I have had many issues but have been able to fix all of them for the last 15 years!

just watch video simple

We had problems with the ice dispenser chute building up frost from condensation freezing due to the flap not closing properly. It would clog up completely and often. I had already replaced the flap and spring years ago but it didn't help much. I Googled this problem for my model and found a video detailing how to check and change the solenoid. Sure enough, the solenoid was completely corroded and crumbled in my hands as I removed it. I ordered the replacement part and made the repair myself. The video was perfect in describing. If your refrigerator is well used as ours is, you'll be shocked by the buildup and cleaning that will be necessary as you make this repair. I ended up taking much more of the dispensing assembly apart so I could clean it with warm soapy bleach water. Be mindful as you disassemble or take photos / videos with your smartphone to help put it back together. It took longer to clean than replace the solenoid. Also, be careful if you have an island or other cabinetry close by. If you have to pull the refrigerator out to unplug it, the handles can chip granite edges or the top corners can scratch wood work. We have cherry cabinets that surround ours. I chipped the edge of the granite when I pulled it out and I scratched the wood as I pushed it back in place. Minor repairs but can save you some frustration. Good luck!

I followed the video for my model refrigerator on parts select. My hint: when returning the back panel of the freezer, it's slightly adjustable left and right to avoid grazing the fan.

Replaced flapper. Followed the video. The lamp caused the removable plastic bracket (which supports the control panel and the ice chute) to fuse with the plastic frame in the door. Eventually broke the fused plastic, removed the bracket, and filed the rough broken plastic before reassembly.

removed the control panel ,using a paper clip, removed five screws, disconected wire connector, and removed the solenoid. reversed procedure to reassemble. ordered the part one day and received it the next day. Thank you for the prompt response.

Used the instruction provide by Part Select, which are easy to follow.
When it came to replacing the Solenoid, the two bottom screws were easy to remove, The third screw (located on the top) needed lo be loosened, That screw was very difficult to remove because it was rusted, and I had to replace it.
I suggest that a spare screw should be supplied wit the solenoid.

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.

I followed the instructions on a posted desctiption. It workded perfectly. Replacing the inner door panel was not as difficult as described. Just start the process with the screws in the middle of the door. Those two screw holes were not slots. All of the remaining screw holes had slots. I installed all of the door screws before tightening any. I workded right the first time.