Models > WTW6300SW0

WTW6300SW0 Whirlpool Washer - Overview

Sections of the WTW6300SW0

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Manuals & Care Guides for WTW6300SW0

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Drain Pump – Part Number: W10536347
Drain Pump
★★★★★
★★★★★
(17)
PartSelect #: PS5136124
Manufacturer #: W10536347
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
$173.44
  In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
Touch-Up Paint - White
★★★★★
★★★★★
(16)
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$10.20
  In Stock
Basket Hub Kit – Part Number: W10820039
Basket Hub Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(22)
PartSelect #: PS11723155
Manufacturer #: W10820039
This kit includes one driver hub and two driven basket hubs. The basket hub is located under the agitator. If your washer is not agitating or spinning properly, the hubs will need to be replaced.
$48.11
  In Stock
Seal, Inner Cap – Part Number: WPW10072840
Seal, Inner Cap
PartSelect #: PS11748108
Manufacturer #: WPW10072840
Also known as an O-Ring. This black o-ring seal is three inches in diameter.
$19.47
  In Stock
Agitator Cap Barrier with Seal – Part Number: WPW10074580
Agitator Cap Barrier with Seal
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS11748113
Manufacturer #: WPW10074580
The O-Ring is included with this cap. It can be purchased separately as Part #WPW10072840.
$14.15
  In Stock
Suspension Rod Kit - Set of 4 – Part Number: W10820048
Suspension Rod Kit - Set of 4
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
PartSelect #: PS11723157
Manufacturer #: W10820048
The suspension rod kit supports the wash drum and keeps it stable during unbalanced loads. If your washer is making a loud banging sound during the washing cycle, check to ensure the suspension rods a...
$104.97
  In Stock
Lid Lock Assembly – Part Number: WPW10619844
Lid Lock Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
PartSelect #: PS11756782
Manufacturer #: WPW10619844
This part makes sure that the lid is shut before allowing the machine to start or agitate. NOTE: This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to prior parts including
$121.09
  In Stock
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP596669
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11743008
Manufacturer #: WP596669
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
$11.68
  In Stock
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11740613
Manufacturer #: WP285655
This hose clamp is sold individually.
$14.15
  In Stock
Touch-up Paint - Black – Part Number: 72032
Touch-up Paint - Black
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS385141
Manufacturer #: 72032
16ml
$14.96
  In Stock
Screw, 8-16 x 1.000 – Part Number: WP8533953
Screw, 8-16 x 1.000
PartSelect #: PS11746167
Manufacturer #: WP8533953
Sold individually.
$10.14
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WP488729
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742721
Manufacturer #: WP488729
Metallic screw that is less than an inch long. Does not include the plastic washer.
$10.09
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for WTW6300SW0

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Kathy
March 6, 2020
Tub runs out of balance
For model number WTW6300SW0
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Hello Kathy, thank you for your question. The most likely cause of that issue is the suspension springs PartSelect Number: PS11723157. The suspension rod kit supports the wash drum and keeps it stable during unbalanced loads. If your washer is making a loud banging sound during the washing cycle, check the suspension rods first. I hope this helps.

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Wilfredo
March 9, 2020
Code f 81
For model number WTW6300SW0
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Hello Wilfredo, Thank you for the question. The F81 error code comes up when you try and start a cycle with the lid open or you try and run consecutive wash cycles without opening the lid between cycles. If this is not the case, the Lid Lock Assembly may be defective and will need to be replaced. We hope this helps.

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Jenny
December 29, 2021
The f1 keeps coming on repeatedly in beginning and during wash. How can i fix it?
For model number WTW6300SW0
PartSelect logo
Hi Jenny, Thank you for your question. The F1 error code is letting you know that the water level pressure transducer signal is out of range. If the signal is out of range, the pressure transducer air hose tubing may be pinched or crimped. Also, if the pressure transducer on the electronic machine and motor control board has failed, then the error code will appear. Before checking the hose, unplug the washing machine from the electrical outlet. Inspect the hose by submerging it in water, sealing one end and blowing in the other, no bubbles should come out of the hose during this test. Additionally, you should also inspect it for any signs of wear or damage. If the hose is fine, inspect the electronic machine and motor control board for signs of wear, burning, cracking, or damage. If it shows any of these signs, it will need to be replaced. We hope this helps! If you have any questions, please let us know.

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Bruce
December 15, 2022
Getting oL error code often during loads. Loads are light and maybe 1/2 way full.
For model number WTW6300SW0
PartSelect logo
Hello Bruce, thank you for contacting us. Provided that you are not overloading, the issue is most probably a defective basket hub kit, part number PS11723155, which is causing difficulty in spinning. We would also recommend checking the windings of the rotor position kit, part number PS2180265. It monitors the direction and speed of the spinning rotor and communicates the information to the electronic control board. If this does not help, the issue is probably related to the electronic control board and/or stator. We would recommend checking these parts with a multimeter and making sure these are not shorted. Customer service is always available to help you place an order if you are having trouble doing so. Good luck with your repair.

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Common Symptoms of the WTW6300SW0

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Leaking
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Will not agitate
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Will not drain
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Lid or door won’t close
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Will Not Start
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Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
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Spins slowly
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Spinning Issues
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Locking Issues
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Shaking and Moving
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Marks left on clothes
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Loose change entered drain pump, cracked housing leaked all water out
Disconnect power, hot/cold supply and drain hose. Tip washer onto front side, expect some additional water to leak out. Remove the cracked drain pump, 3 screws, hose clamps, and electrical plug.

Tip washer back up, use the putty knife to pop the top cover up (clips are about 6.5in in from sides). Unclip the white plastic cover over the outer and inner tubs. Pop the center cap from inside the inner tub, exposing the bolt holding the inner tub down. Remove bolt, pull inner tub up and out.

At bottom of outer tub remove 2 screws from drain access cover, should find some change under there (or in the pump).

Re-assemble using new pump.

Note:
Before new pump arrived I was able to use some silicone sealant, epoxy, and black tape to temporarily fix the cracked pump housing after pulling it out.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • ROBERT from BARRINGTON, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
204 of 236 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer always stopped at the 47th and 24th minute of each load and display F1 error code. I would have to press "cancel" and then "start" a few times for it to continue.
Removed the dial control top covering by unscrewing the 3 screws in the back of the cover. Once the cover was off, the control module was exposed and all I had to do was:

1. Disconnect the wires that were plugged into the control module

2. Remove the old module. There was 1 screw holding it in place.

3. Replace with the new module. Put back the screw back.

4. Reconnect the wires. There was about a 8 different plugs that needed to reconnected. So I took a few pictures of how the wires were connected/plugged in, with my compact camera (just in case I forgot where each went). I didn't need to use the pictures, but it was just a safety net in case I forgot where each went.
Parts Used:
Electronic Machine and Motor Control Board
  • James from Turnersville, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
150 of 170 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water pump for draining
The actual install of the pump was extremely easy. I removed the back cover, (After unhooking water, drain and electricity. I laid the machine on its front ( USE CAUTION WHEN DOING THIS, THERE ARE SHARP EDGES on the FRAME) After bandaging my cut fingers, I used a nut-driver/screwdriver to remove the screws, pliers to remove the Spring clamps, unhooked the wiring( its a single plug in) and reverse the procedure for installing.

I saw where a person had put the screws in the filter below the tub. I had to find the clips on the front of the machine, (about 7 in in from the sides) I removed the nut cover on the agitator, used a socket to remove the agitator, tub, and a nut driver to remove the filter. I found 3 areas where coins could get through the drain filter, and I used self tapping screws to make an obstruction that water could get through but not the coins. I reinstalled tub. Before re installing the agitator, I got some fiber glass window screening and cut a piece to go over the drain slots in the bottom of the tub but under the agitator, then reinstalled the agitator.

I noticed that the new pump had more re enforcing at the areas where the 1st pump broke. I doubt that it will break, but I am not taking any chances. I put the screen in to prevent the coins from getting to the drain filer 1st and the back up was the screws in the drain filter.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Kerry from Alleyton, tX, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
67 of 80 people found this instruction helpful.
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