WT1201CW LG Washer - Instructions

I had a hard time removing the agitator, had to get thin prybar to get a hold of washplate. After I removed washplate, I found that the shaft that the washplate attaches to was actually worn out. What used to be a spline was smooth. So I ordered a new clutch assembly. There are a lot of bolts that hold the clutch assembly on to the basket. There are a lot of videos on Utube that will walk you through step by step. The only problem I encountered with this was removing the nut that holds the basket to the tub. One video said it was reverse thread, which it wasn’t. You can check the thread on new clutch assembly to see which way is correct. After I put back together. Works like new.

bought a position sensor
top load machine when i tipped the machine over i found
the nut and washer on the floor .replaced the sensor and nut
took about half an hour

Removed the center cover cap carefully on top of the agitator with a small screw driver. There are 3 (on mine) little slots around the edge of the bottom of the cap where it meets the agitator. Insert the small flat blade screwdriver and gently twist at each one till the cap pops loose and comes off.

There was a 10MM bolt under the cap on mine that you need to remove. I used an cordless impact driver but you could use a socket wrench as well. Remove the bolt and the agitator comes off. May take a little wiggling or it may come right off.

The teeth on the agitator were wore all the way down and gone on mine so it came off easy and this was the issue I had why it was spinning freely. I took the small flat blade screwdriver and used the edge and corner of the blade to clean the teeth on the shaft where the agitator attaches and wiped it down before installing the new part as there was quite a bit of metal shavings from the damaged part.

I just reversed the order of removal to install the new part. Took about 15 min. I ran a rinse and spin cycle to remove any additional metal shavings and to check to see if it all worked properly. THATS IT! TOO EASY!

Remove the bad motor assembly ac pump with the new one.

Getting the old part out was not too hard, but had a couple challenges. Watched a video from RepairClininc that detailed the process very thoroughly. Definitely use an impact gun to remove the drum nut inside the drum. My drum was stuck on the shaft pretty good. Would not lift off. Removed the rotator, stator and diverter motor on the bottom, and took out all the bolts securing the clutch. Had to use a hammer to tap the shaft out from inside the drum. Then the clutch dropped out the bottom and I was able to remove the drum. Installation went smooth. Just remember the order you took stuff off and the position of the parts. They need to go on the same or the electrical connectors won't reach.

Replaced valve body, very easy to fix as per the video, runs normal.

Unplug washer. All work can be from back of washer. Remove 2 wires, 2 hose clamps and hoses, 3 mounting bolts. Reuse mounting bracket and replace pump in reverse. Run wash to check for leaks, repair if any. Return washer to original location.

I first fixed the stator coil by repairing the cut coil spots at 2 location using solder and with a bit of equivalent wires to extend with heat shrink sleeving to extend over the iron core. Next, I assembled the new coupling in the new coupling assembly with a bit grease around cogs. Wached few videos to see orientation since mine was broken assembly and wasn't certain how it sits inside. Once oriented and seated right, I wiggled to sit in properly over the stator cog..I felt the stator cogs with coupling locked to the shaft. After that I secured the main nut and connected the appliance. All worked perfectly after that. Thanks for sending the ordered parts. Now the washing machine is strong and solid in its agitation.

I can’t really say it was easy and I just did it

After unplugging the washer I cut the water off. I took the water hoses off, then the back top panel using a phillips head screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to take off the two hoses and clamps. I unplugged the electric connection on each solenoid, took out 5 screws replaced the part and did everything in reverse order. Problem solved. Thanks for the fast service on my order.

Removed flimsy, easily breakable panels (one on each side), that cover the hinges for the top lid. Removed screws that cover the pins in the door top, that fit in the swivel. Removed broken door.

Placed pins in new door into swivel brackets, replaced covers that hold the door correctly in place. Tightened in place with screws. Pot panels back into pace to cover the swivel mechanism.

Job complete.
Sorry for the written confusion, don’ see a way to attach photos that make it simple to understand.

Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it did not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.

raised the front of washer by hand (literally) and placed two 2x4 blocks under front lip for support. reached up inside washer cabinet and unscrewed the broken leg piece upwards into the cabinet. this was the only way I could get the broken piece out without some specialized tool to reach it from the underside. replacement with the new leg was a breeze.

Looked on line for instructions, took my time and the repair went very easy. Just be careful not to drop screws in tub.

Figured out how to remove the top door and the top panel that covered the solenoid bank. That was the hardest part. Swapping out the solenoid bank and the connector was easy. No more water leaking.