WT1101CW (ABWEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

Figured out how to remove the top door and the top panel that covered the solenoid bank. That was the hardest part. Swapping out the solenoid bank and the connector was easy. No more water leaking.

Replaced valve body, very easy to fix as per the video, runs normal.

After unplugging the washer I cut the water off. I took the water hoses off, then the back top panel using a phillips head screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to take off the two hoses and clamps. I unplugged the electric connection on each solenoid, took out 5 screws replaced the part and did everything in reverse order. Problem solved. Thanks for the fast service on my order.

I found the new lid assembly on PartSelect. Placed the order and before log the part arrived! I was a little concerned when ordering that it may not match or fit right but when it arrived it was perfect. In about 15 minutes I had removed the old lid and replaced it with this new one! Perfect fit and color match and wow it is just like new.

Thanks so much PartSelect I will order here again if I ever need any replacement part!

Looked on line for instructions, took my time and the repair went very easy. Just be careful not to drop screws in tub.

I can’t really say it was easy and I just did it

On repair of (replacing one of the MEF62462103 hinges) the previous comments and instructions were good and fairly accurate. However, in addition to having to remove the two screws on the top front so the entire top assemble can be lifted, there are two short screws on the back of the washer towards the top on each side that need to be removed. That way you can tilt the entire top up enough to get to the two underneath phillips head screws for each hinge. It’s okay to leave all the hoses connected and good to have a second person hold the top tilted up so you can get to the hinge screws. It took about 30 minutes to change one hinge for me and my helper.

The base assembly was easy to repair tip the washer on its side and took the screws out the bottom and two wires and a sensor off the old base assembly that was broken and replaced it the the way I took it off easy install. And they got great costumer service as well will be back for other parts.

Removed flimsy, easily breakable panels (one on each side), that cover the hinges for the top lid. Removed screws that cover the pins in the door top, that fit in the swivel. Removed broken door.

Placed pins in new door into swivel brackets, replaced covers that hold the door correctly in place. Tightened in place with screws. Pot panels back into pace to cover the swivel mechanism.

Job complete.
Sorry for the written confusion, don’ see a way to attach photos that make it simple to understand.

Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it did not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.

Everthing went to plan except the wet side of the parts removal was difficult. used puller to remove the wash plate and got it to release. But the plastic part of the wash plate released and left the aluminum part still on the coupling. Corrision was the problem, and I had to again use a puller to remove this part of the wash plate. So it wasn't a matter of just lifting the wash plate off by hand. The rest of the replacement was fine.

I first fixed the stator coil by repairing the cut coil spots at 2 location using solder and with a bit of equivalent wires to extend with heat shrink sleeving to extend over the iron core. Next, I assembled the new coupling in the new coupling assembly with a bit grease around cogs. Wached few videos to see orientation since mine was broken assembly and wasn't certain how it sits inside. Once oriented and seated right, I wiggled to sit in properly over the stator cog..I felt the stator cogs with coupling locked to the shaft. After that I secured the main nut and connected the appliance. All worked perfectly after that. Thanks for sending the ordered parts. Now the washing machine is strong and solid in its agitation.

raised the front of washer by hand (literally) and placed two 2x4 blocks under front lip for support. reached up inside washer cabinet and unscrewed the broken leg piece upwards into the cabinet. this was the only way I could get the broken piece out without some specialized tool to reach it from the underside. replacement with the new leg was a breeze.

The instructions received from partselect.com were really good. There are two long screws located on either side of the front control panel. Simply removed the small covers to expose the two screws. Then remove both screws. At that point you can lift up (carefully) the front panel high enough to gain access underneath to remove the two Philip head screws holding the hinge. Be careful not to drop the screws down in the machine cavity. Lift out the old hinge and insert the new one. Re-install the two Phillip head screws into the new hinge. Let the front panel back down and re-install the two long screws. You’re done!

Removed 2 hidden screws from the top panel.
Lifted top panel.
The first screw came out easy, the second one gave me trouble.
It is best to help a helper who can hold the lid open as much as possible.
To insert the new screws takes patience as they might fall very easily.
Overall, not that difficult - just need patience.