WRF540CWHZ03 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Pushed the hinge pins aside and removed the old lid.. Reversed the process to install the new lid

First, I removed the drawers at the bottom of the fridge and then I removed the three hex head (7/32) screws that hold the end cap on. Then I disengaged the slider which connects to the temperature control for the pantry drawer. Then, unscrewed the drawer slides with a Phillips from the old end cap. Also the slide push rod has to be disengaged from the clips on the back of the endcap.

Then, I reinserted the push rod to the new end cap and reattached the drawer sliders and the slider itself. At this point I realized I SHOULD have unscrewed the temperature slider at the back where it covers the cold air outlet. The screw had slipped out. I replaced it with a slightly larger wood screw. Reinstall the drawers, all done.

Since the crisper didn't come with a front, the old front needed to be removed from the broken cripser and attached to the new one. The easiest way to take off the front is to remove it from the bottom of the crisper. Once the pressure is released it comes off easy. Snap the front on the new crisper by starting with the top and snapping the bottom.

First, I removed the Climate control drawers, the lower shelf pieces and the Chef's Pantry drawer so I had room to work.

Next, I unfastened the two screws that held the pantry drawer gilder on the broken righthand end cap and removed the glider.

With a socket tool, I unfastened the three socket-head mounting screws that held the endcap to the refrigerator wall.

The righthand endcap has a climate control adjustment mechanism which includes a finger slider and an extenson bar snapped to the backside of the endcap. This extension bar connects with another bar mounted to back inside of the refrigerator.

I carefully disconnected the climate control mechanism fixed to the refrigerator from the endcap.

With the endcap out of the refrigerator, I next had to disconnect the climate control slide and extension bar from the broken endcap by unclipping several snaps holding these pieces in place.

Now with the new endcap, I clipped the extension bar in place, snapped the finger silder in place, and reconnected this assembly to the climate control bar in the refrigerator and clipped the mechanism to the rear of the endcap.

The socket mounting screws were used to fasten the endcap to the wall. The pantry drawer glider was attached to the endcap with it's screws. The shelves and climate control drawers were put back. Finally, I carefully snapped the Pantry door to the hinge pins on both the left and the (new) right end caps and put the pantry drawer back.

First and foremost shut off the water supply to the Ice maker. Some recommend unplugging the refrigerator or disabling the circuit breaker to the refrigerator. Then after emptying the freezer remove the freezer door by loosening the four hex head screws and lift the door straight up and set it off to the side.You can then remove the lower basket. Now locate the clamps located at the rear sides of the inner basket and use a small flat blade screwdriver to gently push the tabs toward the outside of the side clamps while pulling up at the same time and releasing the clamp. Now repeat this procedure on the opposite side of the inner basket. The inner basket can then be pulled out being careful to not damage the roller tracts or gear rollers. Three hexhead screws secure the ice maker to the wall. The screw under the ice maker must be removed while the two on top just loosened. The electrical plug is removed by depressing the tabs on the top and bottom of the plug and then pulling outward. Carefully lift the ice maker upward and out from the two upper hex head screws. You can then install the replacement icemaker by reversing the procedure.

Unplugged and empty refrigerator, completely defrosted refrigerator using a hair dryer to speed up the defrosting, put a lot of towels on the floor to soak up the water when the ice melts. Removed all refrigerator racks and drawers, then remove the white plastic and styrofoam condenser cover. You will then see the thermistor, cut the two small wires connecting the thermistor to the harness leave yourself as mush wire as possible. Splice in the new thermistor and put the refrigerator back together.

This is the 2nd part I have bought for this refrigerator from Part Select. I wish the parts came with some kind of instruction. I had to re-use parts from the original equipment each time. After studying the replacement part I was able to figure out what I needed to do, but it would have been nice to have a little more information. There were 3 pieces which I needed to remove from the damaged piece and add to the replacement part. I would gladly pay more for a complete replacement part.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

The can holder was worthless for our family. I lifted out the bin and replaced it with the new bin that can hold gallons of milk.

Removed the old gasket and made sure we put the new one in the same way. A wooden mixing spoon was the best tool for pushing the gasket into the track without hurting it. We used the back of the spoon and it went right in with no problem.

I just had to exchange the bucket, right part the first time.

I took the screws out of back panel and slid water line and panel off to the right side while I removed the capacitor and starter relay. Relay was probably the only problem, but I replaced capacitor too while I was doing the repair. Finished removal and replacement in about 20 minutes. While I had panel off I cleaned coils that I could see from behind and then did the same on front side. Cost was $136 for both parts. I could have done it for $71 if I did not replace the capacitor too. Saved my daughter from being taken advantage of.

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

Beware - the website does not indicate that doors are different sizes on this model refrigerator. Not paying attention I ordered 2 of the same size gasket which only fit the right side door - had to send one back and reorder left side from Whirpool directly.

The actual installation is very easy. It may take a day or so the gasket to feel like its actually making a good seal.