WM2032HS (ATTEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

I watched the you tube videos to figure out where everything was. It is a really good idea to mark carefully which pipe goes where to avoid screw ups on re-assembly
The only slightly difficult thing was to locate the catches on the lower edge of the front of the washer top and press them in with the putty knife to release the top of the washer (They are approx 2" in from either side on the front of the washer on my model)
I chose to replace both the hot and cold assemblies - I figured it was the cold which had failed (the more expensive one) but as I had it apart it made sense to do them both.
It fixed the problem. Been two months now - There have been no repeat floods - its all good!
Shipment of parts was fast, and parts were correct for the washer.
I estimate it saved me at least $200 in technician fees by doing it myself. Thanks guys!

After I watched the repair video for the part, it was a snap. It went exactly as the video described the steps. Hardest part was moving the washer to get behind it.

Replaced cold water inlet. Removed 4 water lines and 5 wires put new part in and reinstalled lines and wires

I tipped the right side of the washer up 9.5 inches using two 2x4s and I was able to remove and replace the old hose with the tools described.

I followed the video and it was quite simple. There was an extra sheet metal screw at the bottom of the front panel which kept it from coming free of the three tabs. On the two pump wite connectors I made a mental note that the black wires were on top. The repair also fixed the lack of water flow through the degeterent dispenser. I was afraid of putting the tub seal back in place as a pro struggled with it when it was new and under warranty. It really was no problem at all. Take some phone pics along the way boosted my confidence.

It was giving me a code got on YouTube it gave the code after that bought a new pump and fix done

I removed the top of the washer, pried the front control panel off (pull a couple of electrical connecters or just rest it on something), separated the tub sleeve from the front panel and then removed the front panel (two screws). To remove the pump - just remove a couple of hoses, two wires and slide it out of the clip below. Reverse the process to install. A little daunting if you haven't done something like this before, but easily do-able once you get past your fears. A service call would cost much more than the $60.00 it took to get the part to my front door. This worked out really great - my wash smells fresh once again and my wife has moved on to the next project on her honey-do list!

First I had to elevate the washer on 3-5 gal. buckets in order to get underneath it and find the leak. Then I tried to repair the hose itself-which actually worked-but then the rest of the hose just started splitting everywhere I touched it. So I ordered the new part which took some careful comparing and examination online. But it was exactly the right part. You have to remove the top of the washer which is just 2 or 3 screws. Then taking the hose out was a little challenge-knowing I would have to put the new one back in carefully. Use Vaseline on rubber fitting at the end of the hose that connects to the washer. Need at least 2 people to raise the washer up in air to work on it.

The repair went good but time consuming. I replaced both inner and outer tub bearings along with the tub seal. I removed top by removing two screws in back then pulling back slighty then lifting up. I removed soap tray by pressing down tab and pulling out. Loosened soap dispenser and folded back on top. I removed control panel then front door panel. Remove back panel. Remove motor and shocks and hanging springs which there are two. Disconnect the hoses attached to tub then pull the tub. Remove screws holding the tub halves together. Use punch to remove bearings. NOTE: If you put the bearings in the freezer prior to installing, they go in much easier. I used the old bearing, set it on the new bearing then I tapped the old bearing so not to damage new bearings. I replaced the seal then put everything back together. Not difficult but time consuming.

I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine.
Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal.
Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting.
I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal.
I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing.
This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.

There are YouTube videos out there that are very helpful. The only place I had to deviate was removing the hoses. They were old and I couldn't separate them from the nozzles. I had to cut them and then remove the small piece on the nozzle. This made the hoses a little shorter and I have to pull them a little harder to get everything put back together but it seemed to all work in the end.

When to utube typed in my problem, very easy fix

Followed instruction from you tube. Removed gasket holder, then gasket by door switch assembly then replaced with new assembly!
I am a 63 woman and found this easy to do, with help from you tube guy.

It was easy to remove the rubber gasket to get at the door lock. Removing the door lock and replacing was simple enough, but getting the metal ring securing the gasket was cumbersome and challenging. This took most of the time.
However, after replacing the door lock it was obvious that this was not the problem. I had to remove the new part and replace the old one.
For future, it was the pob circuit board that was defective and had to replace it. Apparently this is not an uncommon problem as there are a number of UTube videos about this.This job was more involved and took me over an hour and resolved the issue.

Turn off circuit breaker. Turn off water at shutoff valve usually located under sink. Disconnect water line from dishwasher. Disconnect wires for the power feed from cord, Marked corresponding wires upon removal for re-installation. Remove 2 mounting screws that secure dishwasher to counter. Slide dishwasher out from counter and turn upside down. Use a blanket to prevent scratching of surfaces. Locate component on the back portion of the dishwasher. Unplug 2 wiring harnesses. My part was held on by 2 phillip screws. One in front, the other in the back along the leg bracket support. Once removed, reverse the order of removal. The i a You Tube video you can locate fr this removal. They said that you needed to release a clip to get the part out. Mine had a screw holding it on the back side. This difference cause about an extra 1/2 hour before I was able to figure out that there was NO clip that was being shown on the video. After that, The replacement went smoothly and we were having the dishes washed later that day.