WM1812CW (00) LG Washer - Instructions

Unplug the washer! Turn off the HOT water valve. Remove the hot water hose at the connection on the back of the washer. Remove the two Phillips head screws holding the top of the washer. Slide the lid toward the rear until you feel it disengage, then lift it off, setting it aside.
Unplug the electrical connector on top of the hot water valve (just pulls off).using pliers compress the hose clamp, slide it away from the hot water valve and pull the hose off the valve fitting(it will have some water remaining so lift it up and secure it to the brace above the hoses).
Remove the two phillips head screws that hold the valve in place. Pull the valve toward the front of the washer to remove it and compare it to the new valve.
To install the new valve, reverse all steps insuring tight water hose clamp and electrical connection. Install hot water hose, plug it in and turn on water. Test run and check for leaks. Unplug it and reinstall top.

I followed the video and my repair went just like the expert showed on the video. The hardest part was pulling the washer away from the wall and getting enough elbow room to be able to work on the washer. I will definitely come back to this site for my next appliance repair.

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

Very simple. Watched video.
Pulled the washer out to get behind it.
Turned off water supply, unplugged it.
Unscrewed the screwesholding the top in place, slid top back, lifted it off.
Used pliers to open the clamps holding the pipes to the valve - one at a time. And fitted the pipes to new valve, one at a time.
SOME WATER REMAINS IN THESE PIPES, SO PUT A TOWEL UNDERNEATH TO CATCH IT.
Removed the electrical connectors one at a time and fitted them to the new valve one at a time.
Did same to the hot valve - not leaking but decided to replace it before it did leak.
Reattached water supply hoses and electric plug.
Tested the washer cycle to make sure no leaks.
Put top back on and pushed washer back to wall.
Apart from the testing, the whole job took 25 minutes.
The parts arrived on Day 2 after the order.
VERY PLEASED WITH EVERYTHING!

Not too bad, had a neighbor help with the project as washer/dryer were stacked. removed dryer from on top out of way. Drained washer, tilted on side to get access from down below. Second person help here. unscrewed drain pump from front, Used pliers to unclamp hoses, disconnect wires to motor (already pulled power from wall) pushed plastic clip holding in unit and pulled out. New unit was factory new, not a knockoff. We took extra time to clean out hoses, especially from the main washer unit, it was a simple unscrew clamp and pull hose down. We sprayed out gunk from hoses and parts going back in. Once new unit was ready, installed back and reconnected hose and power. The clamps were somewhat of a pain with the overall size and angles to get them seated and on correctly. Much easier to take off, but take the time to reinstall correctly. Don’t need water leaking. Motor much quieter now, wife is happy.

I followed the instructions of your instant repairman. A Phillips screwdriver was the only tool needed. Thank you .

I followed the 35 min video on front loader bearing and seal replacement to a T. I went step by step pausing the video as the technician completed the task. It took 5 hours for me to complete which included the cleanup time. I am extremely happy how this turned out. It runs as good as a new machine. I did however find that our particular machine had an extremely large amount of mildew and mold inside the outer tub casing and attached to the spider arm. More than likely after seeing all this mold when it comes time for the next repair we will probably buy a new top loader. The repair parts and video were perfect! Thanks for the help. Local repair company recommended to me to just buy a new washer when I inquired about them repairing.

Removed the cover from the washing machine, the two valves(cold & hot) are located in the read top of the machine, removed the hoses to the valves, removed the nut that holds on the valve to the washer and placed new valve into washer and placed the nut back onto new valve, placed the hoses back onto the new valve.

Totally dis-assembled this washer to check the bearings and drum plus fix the pump problem. We wash dog blankets occasionally and found the little drain hose from the front door gasket was clogged with hair. It makes a 90 degree turn and it gets caught there. THAT fixed the smell issue. As far as the pump replacement goes its quite easy. Videos online are your friend.

Watch the video to repair and follow along

Follow the LG washer video.

E. Z. hardest part (which isn't hard) was moving the appliance to reach the back, then putting the appliance back into place. the actual repair (swapping out valve) took less time than that to do.

Turned off hot and cold water supply. Pulled out machine and disconnected hoses, unplugged power.

Unscrewed 4 screws at back top of machine (holding plastic bracket to cover). Pulled out trays from front where detergent is poured, and removed small screws under trays.

Slid cover back and up. This was the only tricky part. There are pegs that must line up with large holes in cover before you can easily lift cover up. Helps to look from underneath and find pegs on each side.

Using pliers, fully open clamps holding hoses to the inlet valves, and carefully pull off hoses while keeping clamps open with pliers… making sure to keep track of which hose goes to each motor. Take a picture of electrical connectors noting color and sequence of connectors on each inlet valve motor. Pull all connectors off.

Unscrew screws holding each inlet valve to machine. Put new inlet valves in place of old, and screw in place. Reconnect hoses (using pliers to hold open clamps, then slide clamps over tubing and inlet valve connector). Reconnect electrical connectors carefulljng lining up colors of wires and sequence using picture taken in previous step.

Replace cover. Screw all screws back to secure cover. Replace trays.

turn washer on it's side. dampers are visible from underneath. use needle nose pliers to "pinch" end of retaining pin and pull pin out. it will take some force to remove. i would recommend replacing all 3 as i had one that had a mounting tab broken off. i then realized the other dampers were bad. there should be resistance in the up and down motion. if not replace.

Unscrewed the old part; screwed in the new part and said a quick prayer - LOL!
The part worked great, but I wanted to mention how quickly I received the part!
I would definitely order from this company again!