WKG101HWA (ABWEEUS) LG Dryer - Instructions
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Loud rhythmic knocking sound
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Antonio from Southbury, CT
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
You will need a helper. Dismantle the Dryer: Remove the screws that hold the top cover, front control panel, front door and front panel. Release the V-Belt under the drum. Remove the Drum. Removed and replace the 2 Front roller assemblies - these were completely worn. Replaced the 2 rear rollers (did not replace the rear roller axels as t
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hese were more difficult to remove and they were in good shape) and the V-Belt while I had the whole thing open. Use a shop vac and cleaned up the whole unit. It is so nice and quiet now.
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Persistent smell of propane despite multiple duct cleanings.
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from GOLDFIELD, NV
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Despite the young age of this dryer, and failure of all the other trials to fix the problem, I figured maybe the igniter is the problem. Ordered one. Followed a U tube video to take the unit apart. Noticed immediately that there was lots of lint pretty much everywhere inside the cabinet. Come to find that the blower and the vent had never
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been connected, with about two inches gap. So, some of the exhaust was going out the vent hose, but lots was not. In fact, lint had coated the propane jet and the air mixer assembly. Replacing the igniter was not particularly difficult, once the dryer was in lots of pieces. I did not test the igniter before replacing it. I did connect the vent outlet to the blower and secured it. End result was a perfectly functioning unit and a happy wife. I don't recall reading about this as a possible cause of propane odor and failure of the unit to heat up.
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LP to Natural Gas
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Joani from BONNER SPGS, KS
- Very Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
The installation of the gas orifice was actually simple. Unscrew the old orifice and screw in the correct orifice. Tricky part of the process was accessing the area of the gas valve.
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no heat
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barbara from CUDAHY, WI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
To install the repair part took about 5 minutes. It took a couple hours to take apart of put back together. Unfortunately the part I replaced was not the problem. I still have no heat. My own fault for not testing the parts before ordering. It seems there is no ignition of the gas for the hot air flow. I would be grateful for any su
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ggestions. The video was FABULOUS...really step by step, screw by screw. Thanks for that. Barb Swenson
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noise when you ran dryer
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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D Michael from Plymouth, IN
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Wrench set
Opened front of dryer - removed drum - replace all 4 rollers (2 had bad shafts) - replace drum with new belt - reassembled
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Install aftermarket side vent kit
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ROBERT from DAWSONVILLE, GA
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I did as I was told (by my wife). Bought the machine from Home Depot - no side vent kit - had them complete the installation today when the kit came.
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A leak was created via puncture of metal part of bra that fell out.
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Travis from Marietta, GA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.
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Thumping sound when dryer is on.
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Frank from Whittier, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I took the top off, I disattached the front and took the front top of dryer off, taking the front of dryer off, detached the belt and took the drum out, found the wheels took the plastic triangle off and took the wheels off and replaced wheels, then did everything in reverse and no more thumping. just remember to unplug unit before workin
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g on it. And also Part Select is a very good site and place to get parts, very fair priced and very professional.
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Changed mottor
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Paul from Marriottsville, MD
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '
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It was torn and leaking.
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Denise from Show Low, AZ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.
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Water was leaking from under the washer.
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Richard from Blue Bell, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The bellows hose on the bottom of the tube had worn through where it flexed. This was an easy job except for the long reach you had to make under the washer to reach the hose clamps that held the part in place. These were spring loaded clamps which were easy to remove with pliers. I replaced them with ones that could be tightened with a s
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ocket wrench since it was hard to replace the sprung clamps.
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Bellows had developed a small hole
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Verle from Malcolm, NE
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!
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Pool of water under washer after a run
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Daraius from AUSTIN, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under
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the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.
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Hole worn in bellows over time
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Jamison from Elk Grove, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
UNPLUG WASHER.Unscrew 4 screws holding silver plate at back of unit. Remove plate to expose inside of unit. Locate drain hose at bottom of washer tub. Hose connects at front drain, bottom of tub, and at rear at the pressure sensor. Front and rear simply slide clamps down by grasping clamp tabs and sliding clamp off connection point. Disco
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nnect from tub bottom by loosening main clamp with Phillips screwdriver and pulling downward. Have a towel handy as there will be water in the hose, and it will pour out when removing it from the unit. Installation is the reverse of removal. ATTACH THE HOSE ASSEMBLY TO THE DRUM FIRST, THEN FRONT, THEN LASTLY REAR. This order is the easiest way, otherwise you will spend extra minutes trying to get the tub connection to seat properly. Plug it back in (duh), then you're good to go for another 4 years or so until another hole wears in the hose. I have performed this repair on 3 different units, with 4 years being the average lifespan of this part.
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Dryer squeaking/rubbing sound
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Scott from Loveland, CO
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pull out dryer and unplug 220v. With phillips screwdriver, remove 3 screws from back of top and slide top panel back approx 2 inches and remove. Unplug 4 wire sets from rear of control panel. Remove 2 screws from back of control panel, carefully pull top edge and remove control panel. Remove 4 screws from top of front panel, as well a
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s bottom 2 screws from inside dryer door. Disconnect door light wire near 10 o'clock. Pull top of front panel forward and lift off of tabs. Disconnect filter sensor wire under panel on the right. Remove 2 screws from each side of inner front panel and lift until tabs disengaged from side panels. Pull out bottom edge, carefully disengage inner front panel from drum and remove it. Try to turn roller wheels that are on the rear of the inner front panel. The wheel can get lint inside the wheel/axle and freeze. If one or both is stuck and won't turn easily, use a couple small flathead screwdrivers to carefully remove the plastic triangle retainer off of the roller assembly of the wheel that is stuck. You do not need to unbolt the axle from the panel. Wipe off the axle and inside of wheel with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. If the wheel has a flat spot from being rubbed by the drum, you will need to replace it as I did or it will make a thumping sound after cleaned and put back together. Do NOT grease or oil the wheel/axle. This will lead to more lint collection and clogging/freezing. Reverse to put back together.
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