WFW92HEFBD0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

I did follow step by step your YouTube video. I’m a woman. There was nothing heavy in the process. You have to be careful that’s it. Thank you for the instructions. I fixed it with the YouTube tutorial you provided. Really nice from you people.

I didn’t know at the time that they weren’t gonna send me glass, they sent me plastic as a replacement. However the notch didn’t line up in the door to make sure it was in the right position so because it was plastic I was able to cut the notch out with a multi tool and made it work. I’ve been doing laundry all week and there’s no problems

I took the machine top off, then removed the control panel, removed old wire ring clamps. Removed door, removed inner clamp, water inlet tube, and bellows. Lubed up the new bellows with food grade silicone. Replaced the water inlet, inner clamp, door, outer spring clamp, reassembled the washer body and control panel and then ate a pizza.

I pulled out the filter and it was not pugged so I ordered a new pump and installed it, easy to do. That took care of the fault code and it was repaired. Being who I am I took apart the old pump and found that the pump had a build up around the armature of the pump motor. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it and the old pump worked fine. Now I have a spear pump for the next it fails. Easy repair that took less than 15 minuets to fix.
Happy to deal with Parts Select they have great shipping.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

Removed back panel. Remove 4 8mm sockets on pump assembly. Replace with new pump. Only difficult because of limited clearance. But I'm huge.

Took the top off. Identified the parts needed. Ordered the parts. Installed the parts.

Unplug appliance. Remove the back panel with the 1/4” nut driver and cordless drill. The pump is located as you face the back of the machine on the bottom. Remove four screws that hold pump in. Reverse the process and install new pump. Check the filter and clean out the housing.
Reinstall back panel and plug back in. Run a test load (no clothes) and test drain.

replaced actuator switch. It did not fix the problem. Replaced actuator arm, and fixed. Needed the switch because gears were stripped. Needed the arm because it seems over time, the arm straightened, thereby increasing its length so that the rotation of the switch bound up during its cycle.

Well, I am a 66 year old Grandma. I had to take off the entire back panel... no big deal ... then make sure to remember how the hose attaches to the bottom of the machine. Taking the clamp off with whimpy pliers was a little difficult due to the location. The most difficult part was laying on the floor and trying to use the stupid pliers that kept slipping off the clamp and try to shove the new hose on in the correct position. I just didn't have the grip power and manuverability to grab ... squeeze ... push the internal hose at the same time. I finally got it attached after 33 minutes. The rest of the hose attached litterally in a snap. Replaced the back panel and good to go!

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.

Really was not a repair

Removed rear cover (6 screws) unpluged harness from motor control and removed same. Replaced motor control reinstalled harness. Replaced rear cover. Parts used motor control board.

Removed top of washer and replaced flow meter.