WFE505W0JS0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Pulled range out from wall, unplugged AC, unplugged infinite switch, plugged in new switch, broke off end of stem, plugged AC in put range back and tested.

Replaced switch. Works right now.

After identifying the part and taking delivery of it, I opened the breaker for the unit and then removed the range top by taking out 2 Phillips screws and lifting the part away from the hinges in the back. The element was attached with only 2 spring loaded clips which I then removed, noting the numbered position of each. I then photographed the wiring (x4) from several angles and removed each of them. I attached the clips to the new element and reconnected the wiring to the main heating element and the sensor per the photographs. The element was then re-positioned into its mounting slots, the range cover was reattached with the screws and the unit tested once power was restored.

Repair is fairly easy. Turn off power source or unplug the range. Pull the range out to access the rear sheet metal panels; there's two of them, large upper and smaller lower one (that covers the A/C power connections). Remove the two screws in the bottom panel first and put it aside. Before removing the screws on the upper panel, take note of how the top vertical edge of the panel "tabs" are inserted underneath the stationary top of the range. Remove either five or six screws on each side of the panel and put it aside. Now the rear of the control board is accessible. All of its connectors are color-coded, although its best to shoot a pic of it before removing them. After removing all of the connectors, there's one mounting screw on each side of the board; remove them and pull out the board. Now, install the new control board, making sure all of the connectors are properly secured. Restore power to the range; make sure the problem is resolved (before reinstalling the rear panels) by entering the BAKE mode. Pre(heat) cycle begins to default 350-deg temp; should take 8-9 mins from a cold oven to reach 350-deg. If it passes the test, shut off power and reinstall rear panels beginning with the UPPER one, paying attention to the "tabs." Then install the lower panel, reapply power, slide the range back into its home base making sure the anti-tip bracket is properly engaged. That's it.

Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place

Very easy. Pulled the stove away from the wall. Used a screw driver to remove the two nuts to release the heat sensor, disconnected the wire, removed the sensor. Inserted the new sensor, plugged back into the circuit. put the two nuts back.
Beware, if the first time you put the oven on, if the error message comes back up (mine did) push the cancel/off button, wait a few minutes, put oven back on. System probably needed to reset. Mine worked perfectly after.

Watch the video...

Two screws to remove glass top. 2 connectors to remove. Removed glass top and put it upside down. Remove 4 wires and 2 Phillips screws. Reverse steps.

Unplug and pull out range.
Unscrew the back of the range with Phillips #2.
Unplug wiring harness from switch.
Unscrew the switch from the front of the range with P2 driver.
Install and plug in new switch.
Remove the spring steel knob retainer from shaft.
Cut off extra knob shaft with dremel to match others (there is a narrow segment at the proper length).
Reinstall knob retainer, knob, and range panels.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

Just follow included instructions.

Unplug from outlet and top remove back section of range and unplug wiring from switch, remove knob and unscrew two screws and remove old switch. Install new switch reinstall screws and plug switch plugs into new switch (will only go on the correct way). reattach back and plug into outlet. All done and surface element works perfectly.

Turned off breaker, pulled stove from wall, took off knob, unscrewed and pull off backing from stove, unscrewed heat control part, unplugged wires, plugged into new part, installed part, replaced stove backing, replaced knob, pushed stove back in place and turned on breaker. It worked fine.

I installed the new switch. No difference. I switched elements with the other 8”. Same thing. I called Part Select and their rep said he doubted the new switch was defective but if it was they would replace it. But first how about trading the new switch with the other 8” switch that is working. I did that and the new switch worked fine on that burner but the old switch that worked before allowed the bad burner to go to red hot. Now I’m at a loss. All I see is a new stove. I don’t know what to do next and am open to any and all suggestions.

After my husband replace it we noticed that our knob was worn to the point it would not turn on the new switch. I am sure the switch was o.k. so kept the old one and getting a knob to fix the issue.