WEG745H0FE0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

It was easy to remove the old oven door gasket. Just a little tug was all that was needed. Installing new gasket was just as simple as tucking in the gasket end into the hole at the bottom and pushing the clip in the corresponding hole.
TIP: roll the end of the gasket and feed into the hole then use a small tipped screw driver or the point of a needle nose plier to finish installing the ends into the hole at the bottom of the door opening.

Opened oven... removed grates and bottom panel. Unbolted igniter has flange and end wire. Attached end wire to new igniter and reattached new igniter to gas flange. The rest in reverse and set oven and pressed start.

Very Simple, I recommend pulling the old gasket in sections, and popping the new gasket metal holders in the holes as you go. You can't mess it up. For the ends, I tucked them in using a pair of needle nose pliers, but any small slender tool, such as a thin screwdriver, will work.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

I purchased an 8" canning element for my new Kenmore Stove. The ordering process was easy. I printed my order out. I did not receive a confirmation by email, however I received the part in a timely manner. I was satisfied with the process.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

Wanted third oven rack. No problem.

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

Remove cover under controls, unscrew rangetop (front only). Motor on right side of oven directly under rangetop detaches with 3 screws and remove with care. Swap foam seal to new motor and install. May require contact cement to attach seal to new part.

Took 2 screws holding vent trim to door removed 2 screws holding handle to vent trim, put handle on new vent trim put vent trim back on door

I removed the stainless steel front panel from the door after removing the door from the oven. The glass panel is stuck to the panel with 4 strips of double-sided tape. I first had to use some B'Laster PB Penetrating Catalyst (some solvent I found in my garage, as I could not find any WD-40 and the lockdown prevented me from going to Home Depot) to loosen the original tape strips. I removed them after soaking in the catalyst spray for about 5-10 minutes using a 1.25" metal putty knife. Once that was mostly removed, I used Goo Gone to remove the rest of the tape residue.

The original tape was about 3/8" thick and 1/4" wide. I have a large roll of double-sided tape in my garage, which is 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick. I tripled up the 4 strips so the glass would not bend when sandwiched between the stainless steel panel and door. Once the tape strips were down, I removed the adhesive cover and placed the glass panel on the steel panel. I reassembled the door, and mounted it back on the oven.

The hardest part was removing the old tape & residue. The oven works great now, and I'm glad I was able to get the glass from this site.