WED6600VU0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

The online heating element replacement instructions were excellent. The back panel of the dryer was removed by unscrewing 9 screws. The difficulty arose in trying to remove the thermostat from the damaged heating element. My thermostat wasn't connected by screws (the thermostat in the online instructions was). It was much easier to follow the online instructions up until the thermostat removal section, and then remove the thermostat by first removing the heating element from the dryer (connected by two screws), and then using the needle head pliers to gently remove the pliable metal prong that holds the thermostat to the heating element. The metal prong is secured near the top of the thermostat. Once the metal prong is removed, use the pliers to carefully remove the prong that connects the thermostat to one of the two prongs at the bottom of the heating element. The thermostat and the flat wiring connected to the thermostat are one piece. The thermostat is connected to the heating element by the pliable metal prong and the delicate flat wiring attached to the bottom of the thermostat. Reattach the thermostat and other wires to the new heating element, reattach the back of the dryer, and your dryer is blowing hot air again. Upon removing the old heating element is was clear it was damaged as the top three rows of heating coils were burnt. I'm on my fifth load of drying since yesterday's repair. Thanks.

I removed the base cover and cover over my lint blower. The thermal fuse is located on top of the blower housing. I removed the thermal fuse utilizing a small nutdriver and installed the new fuse.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Unplug unit first.
Took the front cover off the front of dryer below the door.

very easy

I have not received the parts yet waiting on the motor, can’t put the blower fan in without the motor, ordered it , Jan 23rd, still no motor, have to go to laundry mat, have you ever had to do that with 7kids, and you and your wife’s laundry, probably not, because you would have had your motor by now. Maybe you can help me with the part so I can redo a testimonial here for you. 19 days and still waiting

I spent the most time researching and confirming exactly what part I needed before ordering the shipment. The illustrations and videos available on how to replace the part(s) were VERY helpful and much appreciated.

I followed the instructions seen on video and removed the top and front of dryer. Then pre-fit the new seal - and stretched it out some while dry to make sure it fit the drum. Once fitted, then I glued 1/2 of it and let it stand for at least 30 minutes and then did the 2nd 1/2 after that. I sure needed clips to hold it in place before moving on to complete both halves. Then I tested it and it tested ok.

I have only noticed 1 spot where some adhesive ran out that shows but it was minor. Had to figure out how the main drive belt work with the pressure pully because it had come loose from the drum. Once past that - it just needed reassembly.

Ordered new latch. Installed new latch into the dryer within one minute.

Removed top cover. Removed front cover. Removed Drum. Located the broken belt. Found that there was no tensioner in the unit. Replaced drum rollers. Put in new tensioner. Repaced Drum with belt around it. Installed belt through tensioner and onto drive pully of motor. Supported Drum with wood block. Turned on dryer to insure drum turned without any problems. Removed wood block. Replaced front cover and top cover. Repair compete.

unplugged the dryer-- opened the back of dryer--tested the element--found there was a break in the element--ordered a new element--put everything back togethered and it worked. 10 screws held the back wall on--2 screws and 2 wires to disconnect the element---not very difficult!!

unplugged the electrical cord, took the back off the drier, unplugged wires from the bad heat unit. took couple of screws out that hed it in place, removed it , installed the new one plugged wires back , put the back on , plugged in electric cord. turned it on and that was all , works great. the part you guys sent was identical to the original . thanks. Ken

Removed Back and found schematic. Found fuses on schamatic and parts inside dryer. Checked fuses and thermal fuses with an ohm meter and found one that was open. Went to Parts select and ordered part. Relpaced the part and dryer works like new.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Performed current check to determine possible problem-then Able to go on line with partselect, extremely easy part description and selection, ordered, part arrived next day. Could not have went any better

Simply checked the thermostats for conductivity and found that they were working properly. Removed the heating element to check for conductivity and discovered a broken coil. If I had the part ready to go the whole process from taking off the first screw to replacing the element to screwing on the last screw would have taken less than 15 minutes. Very simple repair that I almost paid a service technician an additional amount for something that a novice DYI'er could do.

My dryer would not start or turn. I first moved the timer to midway between start and end of a cycle and could hear the timer ticking, likely eliminating the timer as the culprit. I next opened the door, manually pressed the door-closure switch and pressed START to see if the heating coil was heating without the drum turning to see if it might be a motor issue. After no heat, I unplugged the dryer and removed the vent hose by loosening the clamp and then removed the lower back cover using a socket and ratchet. Using a multimeter, I quickly found an open thermal fuse. I tested the remaining components to see if they also required replacement (coil, thermostat, high temp sensor) - all tested good. Took a chance and ordered the fuse alone instead of also purchasing replacement thermostat as many advise - if you have not replaced in a while, probably worth doing now. I have replaced mine within a year or two and chalked up the issue to my kids not clearing the vent, so I went without the new thermostat. Model number was found by opening the lid - parts arrived incredibly fast especially for being around the holidays. Replaced the fuse with ease - there is a notch in one end that holds the non-screw end in place so it's flush. Plugged the dryer back in, selected a cycle and confirmed the dryer started and heated as normal. I then had my son open the dryer door to confirm the drum stopped turning. HERE'S WHERE IT TAKES A TWIST: When the door was open, the heating coil continued to glow red hot (faulty timer??) I moved selector to end of cycle and the glow stopped. (timer's good) I then moved the selector mid-way between cycles with the dryer door open and WITHOUT PRESSING START and the coil again glowed red. Disconnected power, disconnected coil and using multimeter, checked from coil input to case ground (any bare metal) and found one side of the coil to be grounded. I was able to removed the heating coil and locate where the coil was touching the case. I shifted the coil back into place, checked with meter (no ground this time), reinstalled and tested with no problems. Reinstalled the back plate and vent hose. Finally, had conversation with the kiddos about being gentle when moving the dryer and all was well. The thermal fuse portion took 15 minutes from diagnosis to replacement. The overall process (due to the additional grounded heating coil) took 30-60. With any repair like this, I usually recommend visually verifying the heat cycles on and off by carefully running with the door open and holding the switch. This will help you determine if you may have an additional faulty part that made the first one fail. (Most likely, thermostat).