WED6150PB0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the WED6150PB0
121 - 135 of 1836

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Loud rumble noise while drum was turning
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marcia from CAmden, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
First I pulled out lint catcher, you will see two screws ,removed two the screws on top ,( philips head screw driver) I than took a putty knife and pushed in the front of the dryer under the lid and lifted the top up, I than removed a self tapping screw on each side with a 5/16 wrench and lifted the front panel out. I than pulled out the drum and this exposed the two rollers, I than pulled of the nut locks with athe pliers , took off the plastic triangle snaps and pullled off the old rollers , replaceing them with the new ones,put the triangle locks on and that the lock nuts on , I than put the drum back in, than the front panel, replaceing the two self tapping screws , snapped down the top,replaced the other two screws again on top and replaced the lint catcher, I was done.
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My dryer made squeaking noise when rotating.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from KENNESAW, GA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I followed directions found on several similar YouTube videos since the instructions included in the Whirlpool parts kit were not for my model dryer. I found that the original idler pulley was not rotating and the belt had worn a groove through it. I replaced all 4 roller wheels, idler pulley and the belt. Problem solved.
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dryer drum belt broke
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Athens, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I needed to remove the front lower cover, very easy as it is held on with clips only so I used a flat head screw driver to pop it off. I had to remove the lint filter and then there are two screws attaching the top cover of the dryer to the internal lint filter tray. The top of the dryer can then be opened front to back I again used the flat head screw driver to pop the top open as it has two clips at the front corners. It helps to have someone to hold it open or a rod of some type to keep it open. You can now lay the belt on the top of the drum and work it down the back side by pulling forward on the drum itself to seperate the drum from the seal that presses aginst the back side of the drum. I then went from the lower front to retrieve the belt now draped over the drum and pinched the belt to pass it through the tensioner and over the drive pulley. looking at it from the front the belt will come down the right side of the drum under the tensioner pulley around the drive pulley across the bottom of the drum and up the left side. The belt sits almost in the middle of the drum not against the back lip where there is a groove that might be confused as a place for the belt to ride that is where the seal sits then reverse the process to reattach the top to lint tunnel and reattach front cover and you are good to go . i would suggest vaccuming any old dust/ lint whlie everything is open as this reduces the chance for catching on fire I was supprised as to how much lint was loose inside the dryer cavity itself and our dryer is gas and the flame is an open flame.
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Dryer motor siezed up, from age and wear
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • S.K. Mechancil Company from Pittsfield, MA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Troubleshhot problem, used multimeter to verify current to motor. Once that i was sure motor was getting proper voltage, I used a meg-ohm meter on A/C motor windings and physically tried to turn motor and found that it was siezed. I then cleaned inside of unit inspected belt and drum rollors. Due to the cost of the items, I decided If I w as going to replace the motor I should replace all moving parts, and install new belt. Everything went easy. WHAT WAS MOST IMPRESSIVE! was that the Parts people sent the correct parts on time the first time, with no hiddin charges. There web site should accurate diagrams of parts and internals of machine. I was really pleased and will use this service again. Thank you
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Lost bearing on dryer motor
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Wilmington, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I looked at the parts breakdown to see how it cam apart.

I tore the dryer down,
1. removed the door
2. openned the top
3. removed front panel
4. removed fron bulkhead
5. removed belt and drum
6. removed back cover
7. removed the ductwork
8. removed the fan (this is the hardest part, it is very tight on the motor with left hand threads, there are flats on the (inside of the dryer)fan where the motor shaft goes into the fan for a wrench and you can put a socket on the front pulley on the motor. I ended up just knocking the center out of the fan and replacing it.
9. removed the motor and cleaned the entire unit
10. reinstalled everything in reverse order. Note:I went ahead and replaced the idler pulley and the rear wheels that support the drum, and put a new belt in (just about
everything that could fail) I spent about $200 to keep a $1200 dryer in service at least another 7 years.
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Dryer hummed but drum wouldn't turn unless helped.
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from Ellicott City, MD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Solution: electric motor replacement as the integral centrifugal switch lever (plastic cam) wears over time causing the start windings' switch poor contact. Took it all apart, (back panel, front and top) including lifting the drum out to completely expose the motor. Needed to wrench the plastic fan from the inside motor shaft. Tricky part was swapping the original pulley (6 rib belt, still good) for the one supplied for 4 rib belts. I needed to file another flat onto the other side of both motor shafts (old and new) to break them free, using a vice to secure the pulleys. The dryer works perfectly! It's a great dryer that can be repaired by a determined novice. The enclosed instructions were helpful, although if followed about cutting the original motor shaft to obtain its pulley might require drilling the shaft from the pulley = nonsense. Thanks again Parts Select.
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Dryer wouldn't start
10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ryan from Mundelein, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
My 80 series Kenmore dryer wouldn't start so I looked online for a solution to the problem. One of the sites I found stated that the problem could be as simple as a thermal fuse if other potential issues could be ruled out. I ordered the part on a Monday from PartSelect with standard FedEx ground shipping - stated it could be 3-5 busine ss days. To my amazement, the part arrived the next day! Awesome!!! I watched the video on the PartSelect site to make sure I knew how to fix it, then followed the easy instructions. All I needed to do was use the nutdriver to remove the back cover from the dryer, unplug the two wires going into the thermal fuse, remove the old fuse, and pop the new one in. Then I just plugged the wires into the new fuse, replaced the cover and voila, the dryer worked like a champ! Thank you PartSelect for saving me a needlessly high repair bill!!
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Would not shut off when door opened, interior light would not come on.
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Lake Mary, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Replacing the part was easy: unscrew the old one from the front of the dryer after opening door, disconnect and replace with new one. Getting to it was a bit more difficult: Remove 6 screws from the back, 4 that hold the back of the top down and 2 that hold the control panel in place. You had to remove the control panel to free up the w iring bundle (held in place by a tie wrap inside the control panel housing) so you could move the top forwards enough. Then remove the top of the dryer by lifting the back up slightly and moving it forward to disconnect from attachments in the front and move aside to gain access to the switch.
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Dryer would run with no heat
9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from MOUNDSVILLE, WV
  • Very Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched all the videos with Steve. He was very helpful in his presentation of the repairs. Due to the age of the dryer every thing was replaced and was very easy to do. Thank you Steve and PartSelect for making these repairs possible and easy
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Dryer making squealing noise.
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harriet from Palm Coast, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed 2 screws in the lint filter and popped off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Slid the drum off and set aside. Replaced support rollers. Placed the belt over the drum and placed the drum back in the dryer. Wound the belt over the tensioner and motor pulley. Turned the drum to keep seal from folding up. Replaced front and top.

Tip: Use bungee cord or rope to hold top up and out of the way while doing this job.
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broken rib belt
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from PEABODY, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed instructions from video, just removed lint collector, dryer top and front panel, removed broken belt and old idler pulley. Vacuumed and cleaned up inside dryer.installed new pulley and rib belt according to printed instructions,installed new dryer duct and new clamps. Saved myself huge service call or having to buy new dryer.Wil l be checking with this site on any future repairs instead of calling a repair service. Your video made it real easy to repair.and I am 77 years old.. Bob
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Lens melted because paper got behind the lens and was heated by the lamp.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Valley Stream, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
1 screw to replace.
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Dryer made a terrible squealing noise
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Will from Charlotte, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Took a bit to first figure out how to get the front of the dryer off in order to access the motor, wheels, and belt, but found a "how-to" online. Once I had that, the rest was easy.

Lubricated motor and guide wheels but squealing still there. Then noticed the "idler pulley assembly" (the part that keeps the belt tight against the drum) looked a bit old and worn. Ordered a replacement part on this site because it was much much cheaper than a service call, installed it.... and NO SQUEAL!!!
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My dryer conked. Would not turn on, but before that happened it was taking way too long to dry the clothes and the dryer would stop in the middle of a cycle.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • brenda from Newman Lake, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Went on this website and found a story that was similar. I ordered the parts which arrived quickly and I replaced the Thermal Fuse and heating element and it was fixed! The whole repair cost me $24.88! Way cheaper than calling a repair man.
Heater thing was part # 3387134
and the fuse was 3392519
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Loud screeching noise when dryer running
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Charlotte, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, removed the bottom cover below the dryer door. This is just held on with two clips that can be pushed in with a flat screw driver. Then remove the springs that go from the bottom of the dryer to the inside of the dryer door. We had to remove the entire front of the dryer, so the easiest way we found was to loosen the two screws on the bottom of the front panel, but not remove them. Then pop up the top of the dryer. To lift the top, first remove the two screws under the little door where the lint trap goes. The top is hinged in the back, and it snaps down onto two clips that can easily be popped up with a flat screw driver) With the top opened, there are two screws accessible. When the front of the dryer is removed, there will be nothing to support the drum, so what we found was that if you rotate the drum, you'll find a point where there's a hole in the top of the drum. If you take the springs that you removed from the bottom of the door you can hook them into this hole, and hook the other end into a hole in the back wall of the dryer just behind the drum. The springs are the perfect size for this, and it keeps the drum from falling when you remove the front panel. then just disconnect the three wires going to the switch inside the front panel, and remove the two screws from the top of the front panel. It should then lift right off. The bearing can just be pulled away and the new one installed. Put everything together again in reverse order.
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All Instructions for the WED6150PB0
121 - 135 of 1836