WDT970SAHZ0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled dishwasher out from under the counter, removed faulty seal, installed new seal. Easy to understand directions are on web site.

Due to the way I installed the appliance originally it was not necessary to disconnect supply water nor the drain connections. When the cord broke the spring came out of the point of connection to the appliance. It some "finagelling" to reattach the spring.After some "select vocabulary" it hooked into the correct spot and the rest was history.

After bailing out the unit, filled filter hole with a moderate amount of Dawn dish washing detergent. Ran dishwasher twice to remove all Dawn from the unit. Had to bailout the water (and suds) from the washer both times. After the dishwasher finally drained I inserted the new filter..

It was a piece of cake, just slapped together and slid it into place!

First remove the front kick panel by removing 2 philips screws. Turn off the water supply, and then disconnect the supply line if not of the flexible kind. Mine was copper. Remove 2 screws holding dishwasher to counter top and pull machine out. Open door and attach replacement link by hooking the plastic end to the hinge hook on the door side and then place the string portion round the plastic pulleys and then attach the other end of the link to the end of the spring attached to the rear of the machine along the bottom side. Push dishwasher back into position, reattach supply line and re-install both screws attaching the machine to the counter top. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks. Place the kick plate into postion and secure using the 2 philips screws that were removed.

I broke it accidentally while trying to get it off and it would either not spin or fall off. I simply removed it out of the box and put it on. 2 turns to the right and I was done!

I followed the video on the site and it worked perfectly!

Installed new pump from the front. Power off remove front cover reached my hand behind pump for release clip, push down turned counter clockwise pump comes out. Disconnected electrical plug attached plug to new pump. Put pump in at 45 degrees rotated clockwise until hear clip lock in . Tested then replaced cover

Came as a box of loose parts with no directions. New parts looked totally different from OEM parts (better than OEM) on the rack. Luckily I went to the Partselect web site and they had a great short video preforming the task. Was a 15 minute job after the video.. If you get the Upper Rack Adjuster Kit with the wheels watch the short video and it’s a breeze!!

Listened to the video from Parts Select which was on the part number where it was ordered from. It was a very well done video.

Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video


Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place

1. Remove front of door with torx screws around inside top and sides of door.
2. Unclip and remove plug with two wires for dish soap solenoid. You may have to lie on your back or use a mirror to see the location of the small clip retaining the plug.
3. Unclip and remove dispenser module. Here's the rub: the clips used to retain the unit in the door panel of my dishwasher are tabs cut in the stainless steel cut-out and rolled back at a 90 degree angle to retain their springiness. They seat against the back edge of three plastic ridges along the top, bottom and one along each side of the dispenser module. The key is to remove the module without permanently bending these tabs, thereby losing their springiness and destroying their ability to clip tight against the new module to hold it in. I had some success slipping 3 pieces of flashing under the stainless tabs along the top and sides of the old module, allowing the plastic retaining ridges to ride under the tabs all together and move forward to disengage the clips without permanently bending the tabs.
4. Reassembly is just the reverse.

Snapped the new stops on. It took about 2 minutes.

Initial inspection of the issue and research suggested the door latch was malfunctioning / broken. I bought the part and expressed it home. The installation involved removing the door screws on the inside of the door, separating the front and back panels, unplugging the door latch, removing it from its niche and popping in the new one. Reverse the take apart and it was done. Very simple swap. Hardest part was juggling the two halves of the door and preventing the door for trying to close in the process as the bulk of the weight is in the outside half of the door.

The new part did not fix the issue. The door strike was the next part that could be broken / malfunctioning. I ordered that part as well and replaced it. In the process of replacing it I found that the original door strike had been installed upside down. I am guessing it was installed at just the right pitch, or maybe even bent at the manufacturing facility, so that it latched. No idea how it managed two years like that. I installed the new one correctly and the door latches perfectly. Both parts I removed from the unit I will retain if my new parts should fail in the future.

Replaced door latch