WDT780SAEM2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Followed the easy how-to video from PS. It was as easy as changing a light bulb.

thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.

After watching the repair videos, the repair looked simple enough so I called to order the parts. The lady that answered was very knowledgeable and advised me that I would need to order a manifold also. When the parts arrived I compared the parts I received to the parts to be replaced on the dishwasher. The parts did not look like mine. Having faith I proceed to disassemble my dishwasher. This was the longest part of the repair because mine did not look like the videos I had watched. I figured it out and within 15-20 minutes I was finished. I also wasted time looking for the right size Torx diver to place a couple of screws. Had I looked closely at a black screw that was still in the parts bag I would have seen that it was not a screw - It was a Phillips #2 to Torx driver and could have just used a Phillips screw driver. Yes, I laughed at myself. Dishwasher works great.

parts were an exact fix to my problem the on line video was perfect repair was done in under 30 min
thanks
keith
bluffdale, utah

Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.

watched video took less than 5 min to replace veeeery easy to do

Pulled off old seal found center of new seal and pushed new seal into channel that old seal came out of starting at top middle underneath the latch

I followed the video on the site and it worked perfectly!

Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video


Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place

Looked on you-tube and it was so easy. Pump on bottom right. unplug pump and do a halfway turn. Plug the new one up and place the pump on, and turn halfway and its on. START your dishwasher

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

This is the second time I have replaced a rack. You just pop on the new rollers and you're good to go!

With a little pressure, I was able to push off the broken wheel pieces with my thumbs. I was able to snap on the new wheel pieces really easily.
This job took less than 15 minutes to replace all 4 wheel pieces.

After replacing the door seal and the dishwasher still leaked a lot of water out the bottom of the door, I read posts by a couple of other DIY who said the lower spray arm can split at the seam and cause this. One post noted it is very difficult to determine if this is the problem, that you may have to take the blade of a screwdriver and try to pry the seam apart gently to see if a gap does appear with very little force being applied. If so, then just imagine what happens when that very hot water makes that plastic more flexible and then the seam opens and forces waves of water against the lower door. I could see a small seam split using that strategy and when I replaced the spray arm, my leak stopped. I don't regret replacing the door seal as it had a couple of small tears and hard water deposits all over it, so it was time to do that even though it was not the culprit for the extensive leak. The arm is SO EASY to replace, just twist the plastic nut under it and it pops right off. Put the new one on and twist the nut the other way and it secures it.

Snap in the missing track stop and twist snap the middle spray arm. That simple.