WDP730HAMZ0 Admiral Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the WDP730HAMZ0
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Rollers broke off top rack assembly
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from WESTERVILLE, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video


Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place
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Door was falling down quickly
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from VALLEY STREAM, NY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Only one friction sleeve was broken. So I pulled out the dishwasher to see how the one on the other side went on. It was very easy to replace and I replaced both. Unit works fine now.
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Lower spray arm had a small seam split forcing waves of water against the lower door causing water to leak out the door bottom.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cameron from DEFIANCE, OH
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
After replacing the door seal and the dishwasher still leaked a lot of water out the bottom of the door, I read posts by a couple of other DIY who said the lower spray arm can split at the seam and cause this. One post noted it is very difficult to determine if this is the problem, that you may have to take the blade of a screwdriver and try to pry the seam apart gently to see if a gap does appear with very little force being applied. If so, then just imagine what happens when that very hot water makes that plastic more flexible and then the seam opens and forces waves of water against the lower door. I could see a small seam split using that strategy and when I replaced the spray arm, my leak stopped. I don't regret replacing the door seal as it had a couple of small tears and hard water deposits all over it, so it was time to do that even though it was not the culprit for the extensive leak. The arm is SO EASY to replace, just twist the plastic nut under it and it pops right off. Put the new one on and twist the nut the other way and it secures it.
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A mouse was chewed through the hose and ate part of it. Di
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from NEW HOPE, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!
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Heating element not heating for both wash and dry.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from SEATTLE, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.
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Detergent dispenser would not open during wash cycle
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rod from CASPER, WY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
Removed the inner panel, remove electrical connection to dispenser, remove dispenser, metal tabs that hold it in, are a bit hard to pry metal tabs, and when installing net dispenser tabs are also a little difficult to pry tabs to install but doable. So far works like it should.
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Replacing the soap/rinse dispensing module in front door of dishwasher
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from CANBY, OR
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Remove front of door with torx screws around inside top and sides of door.
2. Unclip and remove plug with two wires for dish soap solenoid. You may have to lie on your back or use a mirror to see the location of the small clip retaining the plug.
3. Unclip and remove dispenser module. Here's the rub: the clips used to retai n the unit in the door panel of my dishwasher are tabs cut in the stainless steel cut-out and rolled back at a 90 degree angle to retain their springiness. They seat against the back edge of three plastic ridges along the top, bottom and one along each side of the dispenser module. The key is to remove the module without permanently bending these tabs, thereby losing their springiness and destroying their ability to clip tight against the new module to hold it in. I had some success slipping 3 pieces of flashing under the stainless tabs along the top and sides of the old module, allowing the plastic retaining ridges to ride under the tabs all together and move forward to disengage the clips without permanently bending the tabs.
4. Reassembly is just the reverse.
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Tine Row Rusted
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cheryl von der from HUNTINGTN BCH, CA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
At first I thought I needed a new bottom rack for my dishwasher. Out of curiosity, I watched the installation video and realized that the Tine Row installed separately and that was the only part I needed. I am appreciative of being able to access that video and the money I saved. Installation took seconds to complete.
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Start light was flashing
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aaron from Aurora, IL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences on changing the heater element. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet. I didn't know that I should disconnect the water line underneath the sink and this would make the removal easier. Also, because the copper water line going to the dishwash er was kinked, I ended up changing it with a flexible steel braided line.....much easier to install.

Once the dishwasher was out of the cabinet, I turned it over and easily removed the clips that held the heater element in.

I would definetly recommend people doing this repair themselves, it will save you a lot of money!!!!!
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The filter came out and pushed the arm up on the burner and melted it.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sherry from SUSANVILLE, CA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The air just unscrews with one twist and the new arm twist right back on. No tools needs. Saved me $100 service call.
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Rack tines were corroded
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • J Kevin from Pittsburg, CA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took off the old wheels and placed them on the new rack - fast and easy if you watch the video.
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The old filter was warped, allowing food into the sprayer system
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from LYMAN, ME
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced the strainer. This keeps the two sprayers clean/clear so they do not clog up. Dishes are cleaner now. Note : if your sprayers are clogged it is a long process to clear out the sprayers. Dishes will not be clean until your sprayers are all cleared.
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Dishwasher not draining
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tina from BLOOMINGTON, IN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Very easy to twist off the old pump and replace with new part. Worked perfect after replacement! We just followed you tube instructions
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Split tine row
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janet from MIDDLEBORO, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed broken tin row. Replaced with new tine row. Tokk less than 1 minute.
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Friction sleeve came apart ....would not hold door in place
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from WAUKEE, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
Pull dishwasher out a few inches. Disconnect spring from plastic connector with long nose pliers. Remove connector. Replace friction sleeve. Replace connector.Reconnect spring to plastic connector. This completes repair.
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All Instructions for the WDP730HAMZ0
61 - 75 of 164