WBSR3000GW General Electric Washer - Instructions

I spoke to a very nice young ladie who took my order and I received my order within two days. I pull the clasp off of the old knob and replace the knob and the clasp with the new part and it now works great. Thank you for helping me find the part I needed.

The repair was so easy when I got the part, I did it myself without any help in 5 seconds!

After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.

Aside from getting the wet clothes and most of the water out,the toughest part of the job for me was to figure out how to get inside the machine. I nearly wrecked the thing trying to lift the top panel. After some frustration I removed the star-type screws on back of the control panel and found, tucked away neatly, the documentation/parts list complete with instructions on how to remove the FRONT panel. Once I got inside it was easy to locate the pump. I ran the drain cycle for a moment to see if the pump turned at all. The original had an exposed fan so it was easy to see that indeed the motor was not turning. I inspected all the hose and electrical connections to make sure I had the tools I'd need and the savvy to replace the part(s) if I could locate them. I'm not much of a web-head, so I was a little surprised when I typed G.E. appliances and the search took me to partselect.com where I was pretty much coached through the procedure before I even ordered the part. The box arrived ahead of schedule (yay) and when I looked at the pump it didn't look much like the one I was replacing. But then I realized it was the same thing just ten years more advanced. I used a small pair of vise grips to pinch and lock the pipe clamps open. I know there is a plier made for this, but... Anyways, after loosening the clamps and sliding them away from the pump I pulled the hoses off and let the last of the rinse water still in them run down my shirt sleeve to my elbow. (optional, not recommended) Thus refreshed I then rummaged through my socket set and found what I needed to remove the 2 sheet metal mounting screws and disconnected the 2 power leads. I removed the faulty pump and proudly showed it to my wife. Unimpressed, she asked how much longer. I quickly reversed the procedure to install the new unit and confidently piled in a load of laundry. The cycle completed just fine and has done so since. I will and have recommmended partselect.com to friends and will use it again for sure.

The teeth on the control knob were broken off (not sure how it happened). the teeth on the stem of the knob turn the selector dial. To replace the control knob, I used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the pin clip and pulled the knob off. The new control knob came with the clip already installed on the stem of the knob. It was a matter of pushing the new knob onto the shaft . . . and the rest is history.

Simply put hands, one under each side of the agitaror and pulled up. The part snapped off very easily. I then placed the new part in the tub and pressed down. Extremely easy, should have done it sooner!

Remove the knob. This is the hardest part. To remove the knob, unplug the washer and pull the unit out so you can get to the back. Stand on the right side of the machine and pull the knob out. It is retained by a nylon clip. Take a small flathead screw driver and use it to push the clip up from the open ended side. Not much force is required. It will pop right up. The clip has a hook on one side so if you try to remove it with needle nose pliers (like I did the first time) you will bend the trim on the knob and likely break the clip.

Once the knob is off, remove the dial with the pointer on it and set it aside.

With this done, remove the three hex screws on the back of the control panel. Then lift the plastic control panel up, then forward. This will allow you to lay the control panel on the top of the machine.

Remove the wire harness by lifting up on the retainer and pulling on the harness. Grip the harness not the wires. The harness seats with a good grip so you'll need to work it a little.

Remove the single retaining screw that holds the timer unit to the control panel. Once the screw is removed TWIST the timer unit to remove it. The timer is held in place by two retaining "prongs" that you will break off if you try to pull the timer off the control panel. Once free of the retaining prongs, the timer is off the control panel and you are ready to replace with the new one.

Install is the reverse of what you just did.

When you get to putting the knob back on don't forget to put the dial with the arrow back on first. This only goes on one way but it takes a pretty good push to get it to seat. Next, put the nylon retaining clip on the knob such that it's barely on and slip the knob on the timer post only to the point where you see the slot in the knob and the slot on the post line up. When the two slots are aligned, use the blade of the flathead screw driver to push the nylon clip into place.

Reseat and align the control panel, replace the three screws, plug the unit back in and you can watch the game while the little lady gets back to her washing. :) Just kidding ladies.

This is an easy repair that anyone can do with only a couple hand tools and a little patience. Getting the knob off is the hardest part and a little finesse will work better than brute force.

Have fun, you can do it.

First I removed the front panel by prying it forward with a Screw driver away from the side panels at the top (wrap a shop rag around the Screw driver to keep from scratching the paint). Once you have the panel pried loose at the top ... lean it forward until you can lift it off the tab type hooks at the bottom.
I next unplugged the wires from the motor. The orginal motor had three wires ... two on top and one on the left side. The one on the side is a ground wire for the open frame motor. The replacement motor is sealed and does not require this wire. Just leave it unplugged when the new one is installed.
Next I removed the inlet hose that attaches to the back of the pump. Remove it by loosening the hose clamp and removing it from the bottom of the tub, leaving it attached to the back of the pump. It is much easier to remove and transfer to the new pump once it is out rather than fight with the spring type clamp on the back of the pump in the close quarters inside the machine.
Next I removed the outlet hose from the top of the pump. Squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up and off the pump.
Now I just used a Socket to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the inside front of the machine and removed the assembly.
I now removed the inlet hose from the back of the old pump. Just squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up the hose and off the pump. Transfer the hose to the back of the new pump reusing the same clamp.
I now bolted the assembly back into the machine, reattached the outlet hose to the pump, and then reattached inlet hose to the bottom of the tub. All that was left to do was plug in the two wires to the top front of the pump motor (as I mentioned earlier, leave the side wire from the old pump unplugged as it is not needed on the new one). I then ran the machine for a few moments with the front off to check for any leaks and then put the front panel back on.
The whole replacement cost about $50 and took barely 15 min. from start to finish. The machine now works perfectly.

1. Noticed there was and obstruction in the air line that feeds the water level pressure switch. Cleaned out the air line but still had intermittent problem with flooding.
2. Evaluated the fill solenoid valve with meter and was functioning properly
2. Evaluated pressure level switch with meter and noticed that the switch was not changing state as it should when the water level is increasing. Replaced the level pressure switch, but still had problem.
4. Noticed the air line was damaged and had a hole that prevented pressure from building up. Replaced the air line and all is good!

I figured out that fuse link was open.Upon receipt of fuse link I ordered and replaced the bad fuse link hidden on wrapped electrical harness leading to the motor inverter board connector, BINGO... My washer works and I enjoy my washing machine again.My thanks and appreciation to partselect.com for the help & info you rendered to me.

Replaced inline fuse, simple fix.. but didn't work, checked lid panel switch which was working fine. Still no motor action, followed the reset procedure, and then watched above the motor for error lights, just below the drip cover, nothing, no error blinking code. Not sure why the kit contained two fuses, there is only one in our washer. So, my testing is over, in the error code, it stated if no blinking light, the failure is most likely a motor, I was hoping for something else, from switches to fuses. I reviewed the wiring diagram looking for an addition fuse link, found nothing.. The washer is four years old looks great, but now worthless, the replace motor for the unit is something like #300.00 with shipping. You can't test the motor, so it is a shot in the dark if you replace it. Really disappointed with GE's engineering and poor quality of manufacturing, and the lack of info to test the unit. We live on an Island, so not easy to find a local repair person. Your parts replacement service was fast and easy to use. But so much for GE washer.

removed hoses and clamps. removed 2 bolts on pump. put it back together. done 15 min.

Disconnected electrical power plug and two water inlet hoses Removed three screws holding control panel to back panel. Slid control panel sideways then tilted forward to expose inlet valve. Removed the two clip wiring connections and two hold down screws. Compressed the spring clip on the outlet hose and slid it off the valve. Installed the new valve in reverse order. Reinstalled the control panel and three attachment screws. Reconnected the water hoses and plugged the electrical cord back in. Started wash cycle to check out. It now fills properly. Problem solved!!

Instead of calling a repair man, we decided to look up the problem on the internet. We found that other people had the same problem on a website such as this. We narrowed it down to 2 parts. I opened up the panel on the washer where all the controls are (only 4 screws). Inside the panel was a diagram of the washer. We thought it would most likey be the Water level Pressure Switch. I found the part right away and removed it, I removed two connectors. It was really easy.
We ordered the part online and it came really quick (within two days). I installed the new part(Water level pressure switch) and tested it. The washer worked perfect and did not overflow. We tested it again with a load of laundry. Everything was good.
We saved a lot of time and money by fixing it ourselves. We did not have to wait around all day for a repair man and the part was under $30.00. I am happy the way it all turned out.

Removed front cover, lifted lid. Unnapped the broken tub cover pulling the tub forward to allow the old cover to clear the rear of the housing/top. Installed the new tub cover by once again doing the same thing and carefully snapping it into place. Reconnected the rubber sping offloads, lowered the top and reinstalled the front cover..ready to run.