W3S2CVK2EHM (ABLEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

I removed the Wire and spring from the tub seal and then removed the seal on the side of the washer that contains the Door switch. I removed the two screws that held the door switch in place while holding the switch with my other hand. Once the screws where out I pulled the switch assembly out thru the gap and removed the wires from old assembly. I then plugged the wires into the new assembly aligned the holes up and put the screws back in the new door switch assembly. I then put the door seal and tub seal holder back on. This took about 15 minutes. I do recomend that you unplug the washer before starting this process.

Installed correctly but PartsSelect sent WRONG part, but part number on bag was correct. Installation of WRONG part fried the main board. A $100 fix is now costing me about $1300.00 for technician service and new unit. I asked PartsSelect to help with cost since outcome is due to their error. Totally unsatisfied. Will not suggest company to other DIYers.

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

We replaced the three dampers, two in the front and one in the back. We referred to the YouTube video someone posted on this page.

Watched videos but didn’t show the clamp had to be placed on counterclockwise

Called LG on the phone and they gave the button presses for diagnostics, which then gave the HST code, saying the Humidity sensor was bad.
The part was described as the Humidity sensor module. Actually it's just the wire leads for the sensor which must be electronic and only accessible by disassembling the dryer. There were descriptions about cleaning the wires, perhaps because some people use dryer sheets which cause a buildup on the wires and prevent them from doing their job. I use wool balls and have no buildup on my wires and replacing them did not fix the sensor, because the module accessible inside the dryer is not the moisture sensor, but only the wire leads.

pretty straight forward repair,lots & lots of parts to clean :-)

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

Due to limited space I was only able to pull the washer forward enough to disconnect the water lines and unplug the power When removing the screws that hold the top on there are two on each side you need to remove the bottom one to allow the top to slide back a few inches, once the top is removed, then remove the power leads to the valve, there is one screw that holds the bracket that mounts the hot and cold water valves. Remove the water lines noting which on get to each port on the valve The valves are set in a slot on the bracket. Carefully remove and replace the valve and replace it. Remount the valve bracket connect the hoses and the water lines. Replace the cover and your done. ( I did run the machine before replacing the cover just to make sure there were no leaks)

I watched a YouTube video with how to take the dryer apart and remove the sensors. I followed the what the instructions were removing the top of the dryer and then the front panel. Once that was removed it was a matter of removing 7 more screws and the lint collector piece came off. Popped the sensor pieces out. Cleaned the inside of the dryer and reinstalled a total of 5 parts and dryer is working fine and the clothes are drying in the allotted time it use to take.