TPX24PBDABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Take a thin flathead screwdriver (or metal spatula) to separate the lower molded strip from the handle. Once removed, I discovered two small screws that secure the bottom of the main handle were loose. The head of the screws had five points which required a special drill bit that I had in my tool box. The screws were tightened allowing me to align the replacement Tail strip and snap it in place. Some pressure is needed to secure it to the door. Once you hear the inserts "snap", then check for any open spaces between the strip sides and the door. If none, you're done!

Separately (from a different site) purchased new compressor fan and motor. I purchased the grommets here because the other site listed the grommets as temporarily out of stock. I did watch one of the videos on PartSelect about the grommet replacement. Repair was pretty simple, biggest challenge was getting to the screw on the far side of the motor. Removed the two screws holding the fan motor into place. Removed motor and blade. Reinstalled with new fan blade, new grommet and new motor.

Remove front cover did not remove wires remove ice and water unit took off flapper put new one on 5 minutes back together

Part attaches to metal plate near crushing fingers which attaches to ice holding bin. Remove about 6 screws total on each side of plate. You must disassemble the auger & other parts so you can reassemble it in the proper order. Not many parts but i always take pics to cut down on time. New part is at the other end of the auger and acts as the holde of the auger shaft. Picture a crankshaft with a bearing on each end so the auger rotates between new part and the other end of auger shaft. That's it.

Part was perfect fit .Removed fan .three screws.replaced that s it

I removed the back panel of the freezer to troubleshoot and found the coils to be completely frosted over and the bottom of the freezer was a block of ice. The cold air was not allowed to circulate over to the refrigerator side. I put a meter on the defrost heater at the bottom (basically it's a wire filaments encased in a glass tube) and there was no continuity which meant it was bad. I also took the defrost sensor (small round sensor at the top above the coils) and put it in a working freezer then after awhile I took it out and put a meter on it until it warmed it up and it clicked so I knew that worked. The defrost sensor should show continuity (closed circuit) when cold and no continuity (open circuit) when warm.
So at this point I knew the problem was the defrost heater due to no continuity. I purchased the defrost heater assembly which also came with a new sensor. Unplug the old and plug in the new. Super simple. The defrost cycle works as it should and now the refrigerator works perfect.

It took me longer to remove all the shelving than it did to replace the part, at first I had a small short, [a bare wire was open, cut off too much casing,] thought it was faulty, but I cut back on the wire, wire caped it, then taped it with electrical tape, reinstalled, workes just fine now, at temp #6on dial. should have paid " MORE ATTENTION TO STEVE". I would highly recommend [ PARTS SELECT] TO ANYONE WHO NEEDS A PART, IF you pay attention to the video, you will find it not too difficult to repair.
Mr. PAUL KLUGH [KLU] THANK you PARTS SELECT. PS THEY would have replaced the part if need be.

changed both inlet valves, did diognostic on old ice maker. replaced with a new one from partselect.I have a cupple notes of interest. One, do not count on the instructions sent with part , I't took me a while to figure out that they do not necesarly apply to my unit. no diognostic light on new unit. and you don't have to follow the same procedures. I finished the project but the added help hindered me more than helped.

Had to defrost the freezer to melt off all the ice before servicing. Once that was done the icemaker replacement only took about 15-30 minutes to complete. The new icemaker came with many accessories and adaptors that were not needed and the instructions were based on replacing an older model and not really clear for my model. They mentioned not being able to use the new stripper but it was exactly the same as the old one so I left the new one in place. All in all it was easy and did the job.

Opened, discovered not flapper but more complicated

I didn’t do the repair because I ordered two grommets. When they arrived, one of the packages was empty! Instead of just sending me another one, they refunded the part so I still need one. By the way, I was not refunded half the shipping either which was more than the part itself.

Remove the burned out bulb and install the new light bulb.

I just followed the instructions on the video and it was exactly as they said......no surprises.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Concerned about removing and attaching front panel to broken drawer. Rep. said wasn't sure but most just snapped together. Rep. was correct. No tools required.