SF357BEHW6 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I had to bring the new handle to the Hardware store and have them pick out screws that would work. The only problem is that I live 12 miles one way from the Hardware store. My advise is to order scews when ordering the handle.

Took the old one out and replaced it with the new one, fits perfect.

Its was very easy, I unscrewed the old part and screwed on the new one and put the drawer back in place and it works perfect.

Used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the single screw holding the part in place and put the new one on. Finding the part on this site was a breeze and it arrived quickly. A first rate experience all around.

Undid one screw. Removed the broken slide. Replaced with new slide an fastened with the existing screw. Problem solved.

So, after several years of it bothering me, I decided to replace the oven panel. I ordered it one day and it arrived the very next day. It was an easy job to replace. Just remove two screws in back and replace the panel. While I was at it I also replaced the racks. Now I have a brand new oven,thanks to PartsSelect!

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Removed the old burner and instlled the new one. It works great and I am a hero!

I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

just replaced the broken glides with the new ones.

First make sure it is the gas valve not the ignitor. If the clicking sound still happens then the ignitor is fine, no clicking means ignitor may be broke and try to fix that first because it is cheaper. For us I knew it was the valve because the ignitor still clicked and the broil and top elements still worked. After the part arrived I turned off the gas and pulled the power to the oven. Disassembled all the components taking pictures along the way to remember what it looked like to go back together. Installed the new valve and use yellow gas tephlon tape at the seals. Put components back in reverse order. Run the top elements first to get gas in all the gas lines and remove the air. At this point the oven bakes again.

Replaced grates

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

Remove oven racks. Remove bottom of oven. Mine was held in place by two large screws in the back part of the oven. They did not screw into anything. Lift out bottom from the rear. Remove burner cover plate by lifting the front and pulling out. Mine was not screwed in. The igniter is mounted on the burner and held by two 5/16 small bolts. The top one is easily accessible. The bottom is a real witch. You need 1/4inch socket set with universal connector to remove. There is a single wire attached to igniter by a wire clip. The wire is accessible by removing the bottom pan storage drawer under the oven door. Unclip the old attach the new. Screw two small bolts back in and replace things you took out. TURN GAS AND ELECTRICITY OFF BEFORE YOU BEGIN. Parts select should allow the igniter to be sold separately rather than connected to the burner. I only replaced the igniter. Replacing the burner would be a real chore.