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SF310BEGN5 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the SF310BEGN5
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The plastic trim piece broke and the bottom metal trim was rusted
The kit was not supposed to fit my particular model but I felt the picture was exact and took a chance and had it sent. It was a perfect fit and was easy to assemble and looks like a new stove. I paid one third of the cost estimates that I got from local appliance centers and even other on line sites. I'm very please with the product and the delivery was more than prompt!! I couldn't believe the service!!! Thanks!!
Parts Used:
Oven Door Trim Kit
  • Susan from Fredericksburg, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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burner grate burnt out
Replaced grates
Parts Used:
Burner Grate Kit - Black
  • Derrick from Marlton, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Burner not lighting
To begin with,the symptoms were strange.....the burner would not ignite even though the igniter was glowing....but if you bumped anything in the broiler or pulled the drawer out and closed it abruptly,it would lite. This went on for a few weeks , until slamming and banging worked no more.(that was getting old anyway)I went ahead and ordered the igniter.It came fast and was very easy to replace.I went in from the oven,took out the racks and the bottom plate(2 screws), exposing the flame diverter that is just above the burner.(2 screws)You can access the igniter now ,and remove it.(2 screws),and unplug it.Reverse order to install the new one.I didnt unplug the range or turn off the power,because I screwed the igniter on first and then it was a matter of just plugging it in. Everything went back together and turned on the oven. Worked fine. Very easy to do,and no more banging around the broiler.Should have done it sooner.
Parts Used:
Oven Igniter
  • Martyn from Round Rock, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Igniter Glows but gas never comes to ignite.
Since the broiler worked fine, I took the igniter from the broiler (exact same) and moved it to the bottom and sure enough oven ignited fine. I did this to isolate the problem, because it could have been either the igniter or the valve. I put the broiler igniter back on top when I got the new part, because it is used only 5% of the time. Be aware that you may need to rummage for some machine screws because the factory screws stripped when I removed them. The oven must have annealed them.
Parts Used:
Oven Igniter
  • Paul from State College, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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When I originally purchased my stove, there was a large paper describing stove features. It was glued on and when I removed it, it left glue which I could not remove. I s hould have returned stove, but I didn't.
So, after several years of it bothering me, I decided to replace the oven panel. I ordered it one day and it arrived the very next day. It was an easy job to replace. Just remove two screws in back and replace the panel. While I was at it I also replaced the racks. Now I have a brand new oven,thanks to PartsSelect!
Parts Used:
Oven Rack Interior Bottom Oven Panel
  • Doris from Brookline, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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the bottom hinge pin fell out and door was loose
Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.
Parts Used:
Screw - 8-16 x 1/2
  • Peggy from Ogden, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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rust
Excellent delivery.
Parts Used:
Oven Door Trim Kit
  • Ron from Safety Harbor, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Igniters were cracked and not sparking correctly.
This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Spark Igniter
  • Lewzer from Whittier, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Igniter was glowing but not enough to catch the catch the burner
Really quite simple. Remove the racks - remove the two screws in the back of the bottom plate - slide out. remove the bottom drawer. remove the two screws holding the igniter - unplug the old igniter and remove. screw in new igniter, plug up new igniter, replace bottom drawer, replace bottom pate, replace racks. I did turn off the gas and electricity to the unit before repairing - and it was easier for me to get behind the unit to unplug/plug the igniter. works great! thanks!
Parts Used:
Oven Igniter
  • Bruce from Dacula, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Igniter was Out--Oven wouldn't heat
We ordered our part from PartSelect.com, of course, using their diagnostic tool(s). We received it very rapidly after ordering (a day or two). It involved taking two screws out of the bottom plate of the oven. There were two screws in the diverter (?), but they weren't attached to anything. I had my son, who is young, strong, and small get behind the oven to locate where the igniter plugged in. He detached it and I unscrewed the nuts holding it in place. One of them was in pretty crooked and made it a little difficult. But I pulled it out. I put the new one in place, my son plugged it in, and I replaced the two nuts, securing the new one in place. I replaced all the parts and their screws while the wife cleaned the gunk from behind where the stove sits. We did perform a quick test prior to re-assembly and it looked good. Re-attached everything, put it back in place and it's working like a dream. Just in time for Fall baked goods...
Parts Used:
Oven Igniter
  • Bryan G from Cowley, WY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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trim on oven door rusting
First time was very difficult I tried to make the panel fit into the frame. Broke both side pieces of the trim.Even thouth I broke the trim PartSelect replaced them. I did not expect that.Second time it was easy. Remove the handle first and then the panel slides into the top and bottom only. It does not slide into the side of the frame but sits on top of it. Thanks, Allen
Parts Used:
Oven Door Trim Kit
  • L Allen from Savannah, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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door trim kit
I broke the old trim when cleaning. New trim kit went together great. No screws needed because of new design. Best tip I can give is that the side trim pieces around the oven door go behind the glass on the door not in front of the glass. Visual instructions would be great.
Parts Used:
Oven Door Trim Kit
  • Micheal from Casper, WY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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burned out spark igniter
removing the screws holding the burner together was impossible. they snapped off and I had to drill them out. that took the most time. after that it was 100% easy hookup. clean up of the burner was done with a wire brush. good quality products. thanks.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Spark Igniter
  • Janette from Gainesville, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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All Instructions for the SF310BEGN5
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