RBD305PRB00 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

INNER GLASS - A YouTube video on removing Whirlpool Oven Doors was very helpful. Cleaning the other two panels of glass with a Baking Soda paste worked like a dream. Re-assembly was fairly easy. The hardest part was re-aligning the outer glass cover's top holes so I could drive the screws in. LIGHT BULBS - To easy to describe.

I took the door off the hinge, laid it on the kitchen island and began to unscrew the outside screws. Be sure to have a bowl to place all the screws so none fall to the floor. I would recommend taking pictures with a camera phone as you dismantle each piece. The extra time was spent trying to remember how to put the 4 panes of glass back together....and if I had pictures to refer to it would have been easier. SECOND TIP- DO NOT have your husband help with any of this. I probably could have finished in less than 30 minutes if I was doing it by myself. Once he went to bed, the reassembly was much easier.

I did not remove the door. After removing as much broken glass as possible, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the door, pushing a bit against the plastic oven vents so the screwdriver could fit into the screw heads. I then removed the two screws on top of the oven door. This releases the outside of the door. I then removed the two bottom screws holding the bracket that holds the piece of glass fitting into the slot at the top. I bent back the tabs with pliers, cleaned the last bit of glass out of the slots, and then put the new glass in and bent the tabs back as much as possible. It actually was pretty tight. The rest is just cleaning and putting the pieces back together. Just be careful as the four screws that go into the top and bottom of the door are actually different from the other screws. Just make sure you keep all screws separated and use them as removed. Not too bad, just time consuming.

Hardest part was getting the oven door off. Since I bought this house with oven already in place, I had no owner's manual. Tried to get it off with tips found on this site, no go. Went online and found the manual which said to insert allen wrench in holes in hinge, then lift up FROM THE BOTTOM. That is the key. Got door off, then found that replacing the inner glass is a multi step process that starts with the outside door, then multiple brackets to the next inside glass, then more braces to next glass, then finally you are at the broken (inside) glass.My advice would be to take pictures on cell phone or whatever of each level, so you know what goes where when you put it all back. I figured it out but would be faster with a picture. Anyway, got all together and the oven works fine, door looks great!.

first you have to remove door, so open door all the way, pull back the lever on each hinge, then close door all the way, it will be able to be pulled straight out then, but be careful, its a heavy sucker. I layed a blanket out on table and layed door on blanket, start by taking out screws around the edges of door, keep these in separate container.(don't lose any). now you need to separate the door in half, this can be a lil difficult, mine had grease build up on one end that I had to be scraped . pay special attention to how the brackets go and how the door comes apart, this info will be needed later, now that door is in half, you will need to start taking the 2 other layers of glass out, please pay attention how you take apart, it has to be replaced exactly right. take pics if needed. when you get to the broken glass, take out carefully, and place glass over opening, centered well. now you have to start replacing the other layers, the replaced broken glass is kept in place by pressure, once you get the other glass layers in do not lift up door, you will need to put in the screws under the door, one of which tightens the hinge base to the door, these are the screws that tighten the replaced glass, I found this out the hard way and had to undo the whole thing again to recenter the glass, once tight, just keep going backwards replacing the other half of door. once you do this you will either say, wow that stunk, or wow that was easier than I thought. if you don't have patience, then take the door and glass to a repair shop, because you are dealing with 3 pieces of glass costing 50.00 each. be smart.

I used the manufacturers' manual as a guide and removed the door. This was not straightforward because the diagram was overly simplified. Once I figured it out, door removal was quite easy. I then took the door apart layer by layer (there are several), cleaning each part with oven cleaner, or detergent as I went. If not for cleaning, the repair would have taken half the amount of time. I then put the door together again and re-attached it. This was a little bit tricky but I got it to snap into place on the second attempt. Overall, this is a fairly easy repair and I do not have too much to add to existing comments. I would add the following: (1) Use work gloves to remove the broken glass. In fact, use gloves to handle all glass. (2) Take your time when re-assembling the door because the layers have to be lined up accurately for the screws to take and hold all of the layers together. In summary, I am very pleased with how this repair went. For 90 minutes of my time and $45, I was able to get the oven looking like new again.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

I found several posts about Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens having this problem and most of the time this required a replacement of the thermal fuse. Other than the large number of screws to remove the oven and the sheet metal coverings, replacing the fuse was mostly about waiting to get the part. If I had a local dealer with the fuse, I probably could have been baking Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake that same evening. Even so, this particular repair should be left to those familiar with doing moderate-level handyman type repairs. You have to make sure the breaker is off and beware of the sharp edges on sheet metal. Fortunately, the fuse was easy to find using online documentation for my model. Part Select was very helpful when my original order did not arrive. Their customer service was great!

replace thermal safety switch on back of oven

Had no problem replacing the glass it took my Husband and I less than 30 min. It took only a screw driver and that's it. Very easy