PWE23KGDDWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

EXCHANGED THE LED LAMP ASSEMBLY. ONLY DO ONE AT A TIME AS THEY ARE WIRED IN SERIES!

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

It dawned upon us, after stumbling across chunky milk and crisper starting to freeze items, perhaps the fridge was not working properly. Checking temps the compartment would run 57 to 59 deg F, yet the freezer was perfectly fine 0 deg F. Rather than trouble shoot what component was the driving issue, I decided to replace all the main components: motherboard, compartment fan, blend door assy. Motherboard was quite simple: two screws for a cover on the back, unplug all the harness connectors, plug back in. Compartment fan simply slid out and new one back in with a little trickery for the wiring (I just cut the old fan harness rather than fight the wire routing plastic piece). The blend door assy was the most complicated but just a series of 1/4" nut screws and disassembly. Fridge now maintains 35 deg compartment temp. I'm not certain which component was the culprit (leaning towards motherboard, as I look back some the interior lighting may not have been working properly, which also suggest MB), however I'm glad $450 in parts brought fridge back to life any not $3k for a new one.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

Literally turned off the water to the refrigerator, disconnected the lines from the back and took one screw loose from the inside of the unit. Slid out old filter connection and slid in the new one and did reverse process.

Slipped into place easily.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

The glass fits easily under a plastic ridge that is the frame holding the 2 vegetable drawers below. Slide the back side of the glass under the ridge, and then gently place the front of the glass in the groove where it goes on top of the vegetable drawers.
Its Super simple, and takes literally 30 seconds to complete.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

Remove old filter by pulling and not twisting and insert new filter by pushing in place.

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.