PVM1870SM3SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

*Remove Two Phillips head screws from the top of vent slide the vent left to remove it. Take the charcoal filter out then the metal cover underneath the filter. It also has a phillips head screw. bulb socket is on right facing down. Squeeze the metal clips and remove socket from bracket. Installation is the reverse of removal.

I've been fixing and taking things apart since I was a kid. I hoped that it was a bad switch in the door. Got out my test meter and check the 3 different switches. All 3 tested good, but one was a bit hit and miss. It would work if the microwave was on its side and wouldn't when it was set flat. I found the switch online and installed it. Took care of the problem.It was a whole lot cheaper than buying a new microwave. Thanks! Bill Brown, Fridley, MN

replace tray

After removing the screws holding the 2 cover plates in position, I removed the halogen light bulbs with my fingers. Then I placed a paper towel around the first replacement bulb and lined up the two wire connectors with the two holes in the receptacle. I pushed in, but the bulb's probes did not slide into the receptacle. I spent five minutes aligning and pushing but to no avail. Then I removed the filter screen on the side of the receptacle, shined a flashlight beam on the receptacle, and with an improved view of the two holes in the receptacle, slid the bulb in. The second bulb was inserted in a few minutes, and the job was done. Whoever designed the halogen bulb was not as bright as Thomas Edison.

Extremely easy. Less then 10 minutes tops.
Remove the screw holding the cover to the lights.
Remove the burned out bulb(s) (they may give a little resistance).
Carefully line up the holes for the prongs on the bulbs.
Insert the prongs firmly but gently using the styrofoam holders the bulb(s) was/were shipped in so as not to touch the bulb(s) with your fingers.
Replace the screw to the light cover.
Turn on the lights and give yourself a pat on the back.

This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

After lifting the glass turn plate, I just pulled out the plastic coupler that turns the plate. A piece just broke off underneath for no apparent reason so it couldn't turn the plate. I put on the new one and it works fine.

Upon taking the faceplate off (unplugged power source first) I found one of the wires going to the THERMO SW-TCO SENSE TEMP was completely burned away. I cut back the wire and spliced a new section with heat shrink connectors and I replaced the THERMO SW-TCO SENSE TEMP. I plugged the power back in and it works great.

Removed vent grill and replaced with new product from PartSelect. Three screws attach vent grill to microwave housing. Very easy to do, but not satisfied with original parts on vent grill uses by General Electric. Microwave is above range model and vents to the outside.

Removed upper cover. Removed screws in cover plate & motor mount. Removed inner cover with pop screw inside microwave. Reversed procees to install new motor.

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

Open the box.. unwraped excessive bubble wrap.. placed in microwave.. Did'nt even break a sweat..

Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.

took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel

All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.