PVM1870SM1SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I placed the glasstop on the sprocket

unscrewed the screw, pried up metal tabs that hold in light lens. took out broken pieces, slid in new light lens re-secured tabs with fingers, screwed in the screw again.

I took the part out of the box and handed it to my wife and said "here ya go hun, go put this under the glass turntable in the microwave. You'll know it's installed when you hear it click down" She yelled back, "easy as pie" - - - Humm.. I can't make a pie. Fortunately the old one was in one piece as the side just split so it slid off very easy. The new one just snapped in place.

llation

Removed three screws from the top front cover and slide it out and following I removed the touch panel and the housing that holds the switches and replaced the bad one.

Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward

Received part installed in less than one minute, easy fix alignment of part in shaft pressing down into position

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

Drilled a new tap hole in the base-plate to match the larger diameter motor.

The part received was defective and I will have to use a rotary Dremel tool to grind down plastic that wasn't properly formed during the injection mold process. This will likely take several attempts to get it properly shaped in order to install the vent grill as it currently prevents the part from sliding left to right behind the slots in the microwave hood.

This particular model has 2 hooks that are separate.

1. Remove the plastic trim on the inside of the door. Use a spatula and be care not to break any of the snapping parts. It will come apart.
2. There will be a metal trim that needs to be removed in order to get to the "screw" or "rod" that holds the hook in place.
3. All around the metal trim, there are plastic snaps. Use a screw driver to release the snaps from the metal trim.
4. My metal trim did not want to fully be removed... I was able to release the side where the hooks were and the bottom snaps.
5. Use the needle nose pliers to remove the spring. I found it easier to remove the bottom part of the spring to free the hook.
6. I had to pull on the metal trim enough to get the rod out of the hook so the hook could be removed. Very difficult with one person, but I got it done.
7. Put the spring in the new hook before you install it.
8. Put the rod back in, then the hook, then through the right hole.
9. Attach the bottom of the spring back to the lower hole.
10. Snap the metal trim back onto the microwave door.
11. Snap the plastic trim back onto the door.
12. Move the hooks up and down and feel there is tension. This should probably be done after Step 9.
13. Breathe!!!!

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.

Watched YOU TUBE video and followed instructor’s directions.

placed plastic ring under glass rotating plate in microwave

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order