PTWN6050M1WT General Electric - Instructions

I removed the front cover and the top cover. Then I unplugged all the,wires and removed the hangers. Then removed tub and drum together out the front. After beating on the tub nut for 2 hours and drenching it in liquid wrench I realized that the,tub nut was not going to release. Yes I was turning it clockwise. I bring out my chisel and hammer. After removing the,center shaft I chisel the,tube inward till I could get to the nut. Then I chisel the,tub nut into 3 pieces. It then appeared why it wasn't coming loose,earlier the powders,had gotten below the nut and had it cemenred on. So those youtube videos,are helpful to an extent.

Took about 10 Minutes to have my washer up and running again. So easy, and I almost bought a new washer! Fixed it before my husband got home from work. Thank you PartSelect!

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

The trick is to pull the front cover off by using a putty knife .slide it under the cover at both front corners.it will click on each corner.then pull front cover off .lift off the bottom catch hooks.look for the pump on the bottom right side.unplug the wite connector .take 2-5/16 bolts out holding the bracket.then grab a pliers .squeeze the hose clamps and pull the 2 hoses off.assemble new pump.

watched the video, and it was simple!

Ordered lid switch from parts select via website. Two days later I received the part in the mail. Instead or re-wiring, I cut wire close to existing bad switch. Splice two wires and cap with wire nuts. Zip tie loose wire to tub housing.

Tub seal was found completely broken. Replaced it.
Then replaced tub bearing, tub bearing washer, shaft & mode shifter assembly and 6-rib drive belt.
Reassembled and tried, more quieter and like new machine.

Loosening tub nut was a challenge as it was bit corroded, use of WD40 was a great help.
Knowledge from you tube was a great help.

After unplugging the washer, I drained remaining water from washer tub using my Wet/Dry vac. Ordered new pump Sunday night from PartSelect, 'Standard delivery', part arrived Tuesday morning. Removal & installation took less than 20 minutes.

Unscrew the 2 screws holding the drain hose clip to the machine - use bucket to get an excess water - remove bad drain line - I installed a new drain hose clip as well - make sure you put the clip on at the same position as the previous hose - push house firmly into opening and screw into machine - pretty easy repair - and I'm a novice

IT was so easy to replace the pump. I think the hardest part was trying to get the pliers to work right. All I had to do was unscrew two bolts, take off two pipes, get the new pump and replace the pipes and bolts. It was that easy.

Popped off the front panel and removed two screws that help top down. Then pulled the top of the washer up and leaned back out of way.Then each strap had a screw on each end and a clip that holds straps just remove the old and replace with new and put back together.

Use paint scraper to release spring tabs holding front cover on.

Removed 2 screws holding lid down, and lifted up but did not remove top cover and control panel.

R/R 2 hex screws holding strap in place. If you are lucky and the broken strap is up front this is a super fast repair. Those of you with a rear strap will want to disconnect the wiring harness to the lid switch and likely remove the top panel (+ <5 mins).

Super easy and super cheap!

FIRST, TURNED OFF THE MAIN VALVE INTO THE HOME..AND BLED THE LINES. USED A SMALL BUCKET AND DISCONNECTED THE LINES FROM THE WASHER. TOOK THE PLATE OFF THE WASHER AND DISCONNECTED THE OLD INLET VALVE CONNECTED THE NEW VALVE AND REPLACED THE COVER PLATE. SINCE I HAD THE MACHINE DISCONNECTED, I PUT NEW WATER LINES AND REPLACED THE HAT AND COLD WATER VALVES WITH NEW 1/4 TURN BOILER BALL VALVES. TURNED THE WATER BACK ONTO THE HOUSE AND RAN THE FAUCET SO THERE WOULD BE NO AIR IN THE LINES WHEN I TURNED THE WATER ON TO THE WASHER.

The "service kit belt tool" was difficult to install, but I oonsider it a necessity. We tried installing the belt without the tool, and the belt kept snapping off the motor drive pulley. Using a cable tie to hold the belt to the drum pulley did not work. I used a length of heavy duty duct tape instead, and that worked OK. Unfortunately, the whining noise is still present with the new belt, so a GE service technician visit has been scheduled. Our belt replacement effort has not been totally wasted, unless the washer can't be repaired economically, since the old belt was fraying.