PFCF1NFZCWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

I had lost the provided bypass filter plug. I decided to replace it with your part.

Looked up possible causes on the internet, did the trouble shooting: off wait 15 seconds, then on, hit the ice level switch 3 times. No cycling - order a new ice maker. Had already checked water supply line and water filter. Screws in difficult positions to use standard screwdrivers or if you have medium size hands to remove plastic guards. After that was easy to replace whole unit. Cut plastic guards to be able to get at mounting screws for next time. Designers definitely need to think about consumer repairing of items rather than disposable major items not built to last 10+ years.

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

Your website was very easy to use and the product shipped very promptly. It was great experience. Thanks!

Take the cardboard grill off the bottom of the back it is held on with 5-6 hex head screws. Located the voltage inverter on the tank. It's on the bottom left of the refrigerator. Removed the screw that holds it in place.Remove the jumper wires at the quick connect. Rotate the voltage inverter and removed it. Check the voltage at the plug in going to the voltage Inverter. It should be 115-125 volts. Plug in the voltage inverter to the Quick connect away from the tank check the voltage on the side that would be connected to the tank. If both sides don't read at least 115 volts the inverter is bad. Order a new on and reinstall in the reverse order.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

opened refrigerator door located water filter location in right back corner unscrewd 1/2 turn and out it comes without shutting off water it is a snap to do by anyone and shipment was really quick thanks. People do not call a service tech for something this simple even a child tall enough can do it.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

The original Ice maker water inlet valve proved to be good, I discovered that the water tube that delivers water to the ice maker was packed with ice. I remover the tube and ran hot water on it until it was ice free. Please check that tube before purcashing and installing any parts.

Tested the circuits then the inverter and found that to be no good. There was no 277 voltage leaving the inverter. Ordered new and replaced. The frig is now working fine.

replaced divider wall. Removed shelf and drawers from freezer unit.
Removed old screws. Attached shelf rail to new divider wall and reinstall. A magnetic nut driver helped a bunch. Did not need to remove the door. Still concerned about design of part but that is not due to parts select but rather to GE. Really should have a metal support where screws go into the top of the freezer. attached to the divider wall This will probably break again same place. Caused by overloading drawers or shelf such that they pull on the horizontal support bar when opening. breaks the plastic screw support brackets. This provides for horizontal support of the divider wall as does a small hole in the horizontal bar. I reinforced that with a zip tie and a hole in the divider wall made with drill before installation. the fit of the plastic was sloppy on the bottom of the divider wall.

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer