TThe door strike for your dryer is mounted on the dryer frame that the door shuts onto. It fits into the door catch on the door and keeps the door closed. If the door strike is damaged or missing, the...
This is the replacement lower vegetable pan for your refrigerator. It is made of clear plastic and is approximately 18 1/2" deep by 16.6" wide and 12 1/2" high. The vegetable pan slides into the botto...
This is a replacement drawer support for your oven. The drawer support provides stability to the drawer unit as it opens and closes. If your oven drawer is hanging or will not slide in or out efficien...
This is a replacement interlock plunger for your dishwasher. The interlock plunger actuates the door latch switch, which allows the door to latch, which sends a signal to the electronic control board,...
This hinge bushing is a genuine OEM replacement part for your refrigerator. This part works with the door hinge to keep the door in proper alignment with the fridge cabinet. If the hinge bushing is da...
This is a door handle fastener to secure the handle to your refrigerator drawer. It is also known and a mounting bolt or screw. It is approximately 1 inch in total length, and is made of metal.
$16.74
Special Order
Questions And Answers for PCB940DF2WW
Be the first to ask our experts a question about this model!
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not making it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wall. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.