PAV2300AGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

removed the screw holding the actuator, ordered the new part and replaced it when it arrived. Shipping was really fast and I even received it one day early.

First push inner tub to left rear, all the way, and
unscrew hinge from inside of tub. repeat same on
right side. lift cover off and unscrew other half of
hinge off cover, both sides.reverse procedures and your done.
Note: always replace both hinge's new while
you have it apart.

My washing machine was severely off balance during the spin cycle. It would bang violently against the side and “walk” across the laundry room. I was able to fix this for under $25 dollars of parts from partselect.com and a few hours. I rated the task as easy, but I am somewhat mechanically inclined. Others may find it a bit difficult but I believe anyone except an absolute beginner can do this job.

Fix this problem before significant damage is done to your base! Otherwise the job will take more time and be a LOT more expensive. My base had experienced a little damage but thankfully it did not require replacement. When the snubber wears out, it allows the tub to rub against the base. Metal on metal is never a good thing.

Also I chose to replace the springs, even though it may not have been 100% necessary. You have to take them off anyway and they are inexpensive. It is easy to know when a spring is broken, but not as easy to know when it has lost some of its spring. Just makes sense to me to replace them.

I used the directions below which I found on the internet. They are listed below unedited by me. I have added a few of my own comments below that.

• Remove power and all hoses
• Lift top by inserting putty knife just inside front clips to release
• Remove front and rear panels, 10mm
• Disconnect drain hose from bottom of drum, pliers - spring clip
• Remove 6 springs from bottom of drum using channel lock or spring tool
• Lay on side, remove drive belt by turning large drive pulley and side tension to belt
• Remove water level hose on side of drum, pliers - spring clip
• Remove drum from cabinet by sliding out top. It is not necessary to remove drum from transmission.
• Inspect base plate for damage
• Lay drum on padded surface, upside down
• Remove C clip, drive pulley, being careful to observe order of parts and washers
• Loosen 6 screws holding down old snubber. DO NOT REMOVE SCREWS, THERE IS A VERY STRONG SPRING UNDER THIS PLATE. Loosen screws only enough to get old snubber out.
• Clean dust from area.
• Insert new snubber, keeping it even while tightening screws.
• Reverse other processes above to assemble washer. Replace any broken drum springs. Replace belt if worn.

My tips:

• After you remove the tub you will see a lot of fine white dust in the bottom of the washer. That is from your old worn out snubber. Vaccum it out.

• I didn’t have a spring tool but I found that using a pair of vice grips to remove and replace the springs was easier than using channel locks.

• Technically, I believe the clip is actually called an e-clip. If you have the correct tool for this removing and replacing it will be a lot easier. I did not have the tool. I used an open end wrench that was just the right size to butt up against the two ends of the clip. A light tap with a hammer against the other end of the wrench and it popped right off. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to put it back on.

• Also regarding putting the e-clip back on, at first I could not see the groove that the clip was supposed to slid into. It was below the little plastic piece with the teeth. I used a small flat screw driver inserted into the groove to gently pry it up and had someone gently tap on the plastic piece which pushed it down enough to expose the grove.

• I highly recommend heeding the warning regarding the loosening of the 6 screws holding the snubber. I did not have any trouble with this but there is a 200 lbs spring underneath that you do not want to release. It could injure you and might be hard to put back. Just loosen each screw 1/4 turn at a time until the snubber can be removed.

That's about it. I took me about 4 hours

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!

After pulling the machine away from the wall and turning off the water and unpluging. I simply removed the panel in the back and reached underneath and removed the belt. Took off the hose clamps and removed the three screws holding the pump on. Put the new pump back in place and hooked up the hoses. Then put the belt on for a test run.......all OK put the back on and was done. Whole job about twenty minutes. Saved over two hundred dollars doing this myself. Very simple repair.

Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

I decided to replace the entire agitator. The Dispenser, Agitator, and the screw had already come off when it broke. All I had to do was pull/slide the base off the motor. Then I slid the new base in place, slid the agitator on top of the base. I then screwed in the retention screw (which was probably the hardest part due to the small access). After that I snapped on the Softener Dispenser and I was done.

After replacing the tub to pump hose, I adjusted the feet on the washer. Apparently, the main pulley sits so low on these washers that it ground into the floor and stripped out the thrust bearing. I ordered the new thrust bearing clip and put it in the evening I received it. The instructions it came with were very helpful and it was simple to reassemble. Up until the last piece - the retaining clip. The majority of the repair time was spent replacing that clip. If there is a tool that makes the job easier, I didn't have it. I finally got it on with two flathead screwdrivers prying the shaft out while I wedged one corner of the clip in the groove.

I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!

Removed the screw from the side of the lid of the washer. Took off the old Lid Switch Actuator and screwed in the new one. Took a little elbow grease because the old screw was tight but no longer than 15 minutes tops.

first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

Removed damaged pulley installed new pullley and clutch. The directions made it easy. Aligned pulley as detailed and installed new front feet and tested washer. Took me about 30 minutes to repair. Washer has been working since. Thanks guys for a nice no nonsense package.

PROBLEM: The washer lid has two hinge pins that are attached to the lid with Phillips screws (one per pin). The plastic pin that inserts into the hinge broke off, allowing the lid to come free. SOLUTION: First, I removed the lid from the washing machine. Second, I used a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the original hinge pins from the lid. Third, I replaced the hinge pins. Fourth, I used a flat-head screw driver to pry up the washer top to obtain easier access to the hinge screws. Fifth, I removed the original hinges with a Phillips-head screwdriver (one screw per hinge). Sixth, I attached the new hinges to the washer lid. Finally, I attached the hinges (and lid) to the washer top, then lowered the washer top.

The lid hinges are fastened to the top of the washing machine body, near the edge of the lid, with 1 screw each.
To remove the old lid hinges, with the lid clamped in the open position, I needed to gain access to the screw heads from underneath, just inside the edge of the lid opening. To get at these screw heads, I needed to push the inside wash drum toward the screw I wanted to remove and wedge something in the gap created between the body of the washer opening and the drum, directly opposite the screw that I pushed the drum towards. What? This is to hold the drum completely out of the way while getting at the screw. My wedge was the handle of a squeege that just happenned to be nearby, but just about anything will work.
Once the drum was secure, I was able to get at the screw head, which, by the way, is a totally blind operation; you cannot see the screw head, only feel it. I guess we're kind of used to feeling our way around these days. Anyway, I had to repeat the wedging thing to remove the other lid hinge.
The only real problem I had was the original (factory installed) screw heads were hex heads, and I struggled a bit finding the correct size allen wrench to blindly remove the screws. It is a good thing that I also ordered 2 new screws along with the new lid hinges because the new screws have phillips heads. Much easier to work with, even though they were a little pricey. The old hex head screws were kind of worn and it would have been a cursing operation to try to reuse them.
Once the old hinges were off, I removed the lid, installed the new hinges on the lid and clamped the lid in place in the open position, while I screwed the new hinges on (wedging the drum out of the way like before). NOTE: It might be a good idea to line the wash drum with newspaper in case a screw slips out and finds its way into one the holes in the drum; lost forever. Anyway, this may sound like alot, but it really isn't. My wife didn't even comment on how the lid isn't smashing down on her any more. That's OK, I'm grateful I'm not the one doing laundry!