NVLR333EEC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

After much research I decided to have to repaired all new models were not good. Reached out to local service repair because I beleved that it was the timer. $270 for service call REALLY and $125 for part.
Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am
83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws
take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW
DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY

was no repair- removed filter from door and installed new filter into door. No tools required.

Open the door and removed the part. Installed the new part and started the dryer.

Searched the sites order # online, called, ordered, delivered PDQ, unpackaged, popped in. That was it.

All I had to do was remove the damaged filter and replace it with te new one. It could not ave been easier.

if your unit has over 6,000 hours of operations, one needs to remove the front panel and inspect the sliders that the drum rides on. The video were very helpful to replace the sliders. Unfortunately, my dryer had over 10,000 hours of operations over a 30 years period, hence a major repair costing over $200.00 dollars. The drum sliders were gone, hence the drum eat through the plastic guides. More so, the drum started to eat away the front panel. If the dryer is eating your closes and making a noise, one is looking at a $200.00 repair job. Hence check the sliders early will save one $$$$.

Removed old one, inserted new one in slot. Just have to be sure it's turned in the right direction.

Hand replace

Unscrewed the old, screwed in the new making sure wires matched up same as before. Reset my breaker and works like new again.

Removed two screws, lifted the top, removed two more screws and tilted the front panel. The worn parts were accessible, and I simply placed the new parts in. It worked. A little trouble placing the top back in the slots, but a fist whack did the job.

Take out the two screws holding the top on with the door open remove top and remove two small screws in top front corners. I replaced the 4 slides and the drum bearing without the new felt, do not do this it continued to squeek after it ran the first few times when i got the new felt a week later i installed it in ten minuites and the noise is gone. I think it cost around sixty dollars and my dryer is back in action. Make sure that you clean all of the lint out of the inside of your dryer I had alot of build up near the chute for the lint trap.

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

The first thing I did was move the dryer out so I could "unplug it" !
Then I took the 4 philps head screws out that hold down the top of the dryer, then I lifted up the top and moved it off to the side making sure the wires didn't get pulled out.
Then I removed the 2 5/16 cap screws that holds the front panel on and lifted that off "Make sure you mark the down were the 2 wires for the door swich go" Like white on pin 1 and yellow on pin 2!!!
The next thing is to slide the drum foward so you can remove the element package then remove the 3 philps screws in the back of the drum make sure you have someone hold the element package there is a sheild between the drum and the element package that may fall that is a watch out you will need to move the element package up so you can work on it there will be wires hooked to this ring so becare full you don't break them off.
remove the element package you will see the bearing kit attached to that.
There are 4 5/16 cap screws that hold the bearing kit to that remove them and then remove the old bearing kit you may find and E Ring holding the old bearing kit in place (this would be found in the older models).
Before you install the new bearing kit take the new self tapping screws and tap the holes in the new bearing kit mounting plates this will make things go faster!!!
Now mount the bearing plate with the 4 holes to the element package there is a tab that needs to be mount in there too so look at the old one when you are taking it off.
Pick up the sheild that fell pick it up have a second person help you hold everything in place while you line up the holes for the front plate to the back of the drum and start your screws.
Now tighten them down check to make sure your belt didn't slide off the tensioner that is next to the motor before you slide the drum back in place if it did take the time to figure out how to get it back on the right way our you will be pulling things apart again.
What I did was spin the Drum by hand to make sure everything was ok. you will know if the belt is off it will not move when you spin the drum by hand.
Now that you made sure the belt is on you can put the front back on there are 2 studs on the bottom that you need to set the frount panel on before you can put the screws back in in it.
Now that you have the fron back on it hook your 2 wires back up to the door switch like you took them off!
Now move your top back over and you will see 2 clips on the back of it that slide into a grove in the back now that you have that in place start putting the screws back in put the middle 2 in first and tighten them down them put the last 2 in.
Now plug it back in if your vent pipe fell off hook it back up as you slide your dryer back in place now try it to make sure everything is working right and you will hear the differance.
Good Luck with your repairs....
Just a quick note this dryer is over 40 years old and still going.
I have replace 6 elements and 1 drive belt since it was bought new now the bearing kit.
Clean it once a year and the vent pipe every 6 months it will last!!!

When the dryer was installed last year by the dealer, one of the hot leads was not screwed down tightly. Over time the screw loosened and began to arc causing the plastic holding the screw to melt. When I moved the dryer the hot lead fell off and hit the terminal block cover shorting out the dryer. I was able to locate the exact terminal block I needed with their helpful dryer section diagrams. The part came in the time they said. I took off the old terminal block with just 2 attached screws. i kept track of which screws held the hot and neutral conductors and the ground before I removed them. I was then able to slide on the dryer wires and attached the home conductors. I put on the cover plate, turned on the circuit breaker and it worked.

watched vidio from the site.just follow the instructions, And was able to fixed the problem.