MWL411RBWD0 Gibson Washer - Instructions

The repair would have gone much easier if I did not have a stack dryer on top of the washer. Had to roll out the total unit and work with the dryer partly on top. Only needed minimal work and tools after that.

First I removed the hot and cold water supply lines to the machine. Then I removed the two screws at the top of the back panel, and pulled the entire top of the machine off which was a little tricky to figure out. There are two tension-like clips in the front of the machine holding the top on. (I had thought the back panel would come off so I was surprised when it became clear that the top of the machine would come off.) Then I unscrewed the two screws that hold the water inlet valve. I had to remove the green grounding wire that was clipped on the frame. The water inlet valve then lifted out easily. There were two clips to slide off, and a hose going into the tub that also had to come off which I did by loosening a little clamp on the end of the hose- saved the clamp for the new valve! Re-attaching everything was a snap. Tested the hot water before re-setting the top of the machine back together and it worked!

Removed screws at back securing top panel (4).

Removed screws holding water inlet valve to back of machine (2)

Removed water hoses to bucket

Removed squeeze clamp securing water distribution hose from inlet valve

Reversed method with new valve.

Very fast...~25 min
Works fine so far!

Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.

Quick google search brought me to this site, part was very easy to locate and purchase. The part was delivered within 5 days and 2 screws, 2 wires, 2 hoses, and 15 minutes later it was a done deal.

Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cover and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.

Took front off and put the new belt on. Then put the front back on. At my Age 70 yrs did good and saved $124.00 Which I paid that 9 months ago.

released hold down clips on top and removed two screws at the bottom of the front panel and firmly pushed down on the panel to release it exposing the motor drive assembly and idler tension pulley i released tension on the drive belt removed the pulley from the assembly replaced it with the new pulley including the pressure washer which keeps the pulley stable realigned the belt and replaced the front cover and closed the top. done.

watched the video on website, printed instructions for feedback.

I used a flat-head screw driver to lift the main lid up off the washer to get to the washer lid safety switch..Unplug the plug from the electrical outlet. Removed the 4 wires from the switch, and removed 2 screws to remove the old switch..Then install the new safety switch in reverse order.

Watched the handy-dandy video, removed the defective part, waited for delivery, installed the new part and was back washing another load (minus the wet floor) in less than 10 minutes! Just one catch, I am a 56yo female with nominal hand strength, so technically, I had to recruit the help of a (stronger) person to tighten-up those self-tapping screws. I didn't feel so weak when I noticed that he had some difficulty as well. LOL! Ladies, don't be shy asking for help-I even tried the power drill with no success. Excellent video! Aside from the self-tapping screws, my grand-daughter could have managed this repair!

watched the video, all instructions were perfect!

The drive block spline was loose in the Agitator, for the now block to fit tight enough to stay in place while reassembly of the Agitator, ( keep falling out) the old block had to be driven out. Had to design a wire tool to hold the block in place until the Agitator could be fitted over the shaft and seated tight on the shaft drive, then pulled the wire out. Wasn't the most easy task to do and sure took more than 5 min. to install.

lifted up top panel unscrewed two phillips screws at bottom of front panel, lifted up and out and removed the panel exposing motor and belt .pushed in belt tensioner and removed belt.Then I slid the new belt under the tub pulley and rotated it until belt was on both the tub pulley and motor pulley,released belt tensioner and the job was over,

remove old belt, install new belt