MVWC300VW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Found leveling spring loose on bottom of washer, the sheet metal on bottom of cabinet ad rusted through. Drilled new hole in sheet metal and installed new leveling spring. Greased hole with blue marine grease so it will last another 40 years.

Disassembled lower part found nothing wrong.
Started disassembly from the top. Immediately ran into trouble not knowing exactly how the tub was anchored to the drive. Once I got down to the tube and drive block there was nothing I could do to go further. I guessed it was a press fit onto the drive, but there were many instructions and I couldn't be sure. Parts Select expanded drawing was the most useful tool; it was correct omitting a few details. Anyhow, cleaning out my garage I found one of my old gear pullers that I could ring to complete the disassembly. All the sudden I was in business, pulling the washer drum off the drive block and shaft, getting down to the leaky lower seal. A that point it was just a matter of cleaning everything up and buying all the rusted out parts to reassemble. I spent $150-200 on parts, but its completely rebuilt now and runs like a charm. Probably have around 20-50 hours all told, into the repair. Most of this was reading instructions, watching videos, and trying to figure out the rest (3). Doing the actual work spread over time until my wife and sons threatened to throw the thing out. Never. Once I decide I'm gonna do something, I do it. LOL!

unplug washer. -remove two phillips head screws and two nut head screws holding control panel. -lift up control panel. -remove nut head screw on ground wire of switch. -release and remove switch. - put in new switch. - connect ground wire. -replace control panel and screws. -plug in washer. (depending on location of your washer move it to gain access to screws on back of control panel.- once done move washer back.)

1. Unplug washer 2.turn off water, remove hoses from washer.3. Remove back cover, Remove screw holding inlet valve, carefully remove modular wiring, noting which wire goes where. Discard old inlet valve. Install new part. Reverse the above directions for installation.

Being female & never working on appliances, it was a challenge for me. I took the spinning unit apart: 1) Outer cap 2) Inner cap 3) Screw, nut & bolt popped out. Rusty & wouldn't lock into place anymore. Ordered nut & washer at about $10 + shipping. Total $17 from MayTag Rec'd right at 7 days via USPS. Used nutdriver/wrench to screw in new bolt w/washer. Wah la! That did it! Washer working great now! Now that I'm a "diy" handy person, I'm ready for my next challenge. Hopefully, none!

take off top on middle section (pops off) pop dispenser on--done

I clean out the fabric softner dispenser on my machine on a regular basis and found the seal split. After looking at several sites to try and find this part, I found this one. Ordering couldn't have been easier and repair only required pulling up the cup for the softner and installing the cap.

Thanks for making finding part so easy . . . .

Removed control assembly found lid switch. Had to unscrew ground wire from warsher popped clip on old switch came right out. Had to play with lid in order to remove. Popped new switch in screwed ground wire. Reinstalled control panel,plugged in and the way it went. Trouble shot with parts direct made it easy and saved me 350 dollars(new washer)

Removed the 4 screws and nuts to get the control panel, off. Took-off brass clips that hold the back on. Removed 2 bottom nuts and plastic clips on back of washer. Took the back partially off, and removed the water inlet valve and replaced it. Reversed the procedure to re-assemble.The valve may not have been deffective, since after inspection, the hot water inlet screen was clogged with gunk.

I read the experiences of others on this site and determined that the problem was probably the lid switch. Used others experience in taking the panel off and removed the old switch and inserted the new one. The post to be sure to have the lid open was good and probably saved me some time. Overall, the fix was simple and the problem appears to have been solved. The lid switch got here the day after I ordered it and that was great service. Better than paying for a service call or new washer.

Just kept removing rear panel fasteners until the panel could be separated from the washer sides and top. Removed the existing valve from the rear panel by removing one screw, and lifting the valve assembly slightly so that it could be pushed back through the rear panel holes. Removed the existing valve's wiring and outlet hose and transferred them to the new valve. When the four wires and one hose had been transferred from old to new, valve, inserted the new valve with connected wiring and hose back into the rear panel holes, and aligned the valve's screw hole with the hole in the rear panel. Replaced the screw which secures the valve assembly to the rear panel, and re-attached the rear panel.

The switch just snapped out of the holding section and the new part was snapped back into its place. He put the top section back on and it worked! Being a woman not knowing anything about repairing machines, I thought it went very well. I just googled my problem with the washer, it sent me to this site saying what they thought was the problem, I live chatted with someone and they confirmed the solution. I ordered the part and it came in 2 days and my husband fixed it. And now I have a working washer again. Thank you for your site. Anne

1. Watch a video on installation, there are many on the internet.
(unplug the washer)
2. remove the screws on the back of the control panel to lift the control panel out of the way.
3. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips that hold the cabinet to the back panel.
4. disconnect the lid switch from the control panel by removing the clip that connects them at the top of the cabinet.
5. tilt the cabinet forward to remove it.
6. use a flat head screw driver to remove the two clips that hold the water pump to the motor and swing the water pump out of the way.
7. use a nut driver to remove the shipping screw that holds the clips on to the motor.
8. disconnect the wiring harness from the motor
9. remove the two clips from the motor with a flat head screwdriver and remove the motor
remove the three prong coupler and rubber gasket from the old motor and put them on the shaft of the new motor
10. remove the 4 rubber pads from the old motor and slide them onto the new motor.
11. insert the new motor into the washer aligning the prongs of the coupler.
12 reassemble the washer in reverse order of disassembly
(the shipping screw does not need to be reinserted into the spring clip that holds the motor)

FOLLOWED YOUR VIDEO
RELEASED CLIPS ON CONTROL PANEL - ROTATED CONTROL PANEL TO THE REAR - UNPLUGGED WIRING & HOSE - TURNED CONTROL COUNTER CLOCKWISE & LIFTED OUT - REPLACED WITH NEW CONTROL IN REVERSE ORDER

The old part popped right off, and new one installed. Works Great!!!