MVWB765FC3 Maytag Washer - Overview

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Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
No Longer Available
Touch-Up Paint - White
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Part #72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, and freezers. This is a genuine OEM part and includes a brush applicator. Please remember to wear gloves to protect your hands when applying this paint.
Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: W11165546
$114.55
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
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Part #W11165546
This washing machine inlet valve is a genuine OEM replacement part designed to regulate water flow during the fill cycle. Controlled by an internal solenoid, the valve opens and closes as needed to allow hot and cold water into the appliance. It features two inlet ports and three push-on connectors for integration with the washer’s internal plumbing. A malfunctioning valve may result in slow or incomplete filling, water leaks, or failure to start the cycle. Installation requires basic tools such as a screwdriver and wrench, and the appliance should be disconnected from power and water sources before beginning. Compatibility should be verified using your washer’s model number.
Washer Drain Hose – Part Number: W11244231
$37.25
In Stock
Washer Drain Hose
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Part #W11244231
The drain hose carries used water from the washer to your house drain.
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
$15.68
In Stock
Hose Clamp
Part #WP285655
This hose clamp is sold individually.
Washer Washplate Screw – Part Number: W10752187
$12.05
In Stock
Washer Washplate Screw
Part #W10752187
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$10.40
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Agitator – Part Number: W11550891
$114.95
In Stock
Agitator
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Part #W11550891
This agitator assembly is a key component in many washing machines, designed to rotate back and forth during the wash cycle to help loosen dirt and stains from clothing. It features a central shaft with multiple fins that create friction between garments for effective cleaning. If the agitator fails to move properly or produces unusual noises such as grinding or rattling, it may be damaged and require replacement. A faulty agitator can also lead to uneven distribution of clothes and poor wash results.
Gearcase – Part Number: W11393685
$388.26
In Stock
Gearcase
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Part #W11393685
If your washer isn’t spinning, agitating, or cleaning clothes like it used to, the gearcase might be the issue. This part powers the agitator and spin basket, helping your machine run smoothly. It fits many Whirlpool, Maytag, and KitchenAid models and can fix problems like loud noises or a washer that won’t spin. Be sure to unplug your appliance before starting the repair.
Water-Pump – Part Number: W10876600
$178.67
In Stock
Water-Pump
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Part #W10876600
This drain pump is engineered for top-load washing machines and plays a vital role in the appliance’s drainage system. During the drain cycle, it efficiently removes water from the washer tub and channels it through the drain hose into your home’s plumbing. If your washer is experiencing slow drainage, unusual grinding or rattling noises, or standing water at the end of a cycle, the pump may be malfunctioning. Common causes include wear over time, electrical issues, physical damage, or clogs from small items like coins or buttons. Replacing a faulty drain pump can restore proper function and prevent further issues with your machine’s performance.
Washer Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP356138
$15.07
In Stock
Washer Hose Clamp
Part #WP356138
This clamp helps to prevent leaking by holding the end of water hose in place.
Washer Screw – Part Number: W11404293
$30.40
In Stock
Washer Screw
Part #W11404293
Sold individually.
SLIDER – Part Number: W10734521
$60.45
In Stock
SLIDER
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Part #W10734521
This clutch slider kit is part of the transmission system in select washing machines, helping control the movement and speed of the agitator during wash and spin cycles. The kit includes a clutch band, slider, and lock ring, and allows the machine to start, stop, and shift speeds smoothly. If worn or damaged, it can cause issues like noisy operation, difficulty spinning, or failure to start properly. Replacing the kit restores proper function and helps maintain efficient performance.

Questions And Answers for MVWB765FC3

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Pam - For model number MVWB765FC3
May 11, 2023
My lid is cracking and not fitting tight. the plastic on lid is breaking away at hinges both sides left worse than right.
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Pam, thank you for contacting us. The lid, part number PS12584340, fits your model; you may need to replace it. We hope this helps.
$581.09
In Stock
Washer Lid - Black
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James - For model number MVWB765FC3
February 20, 2026
The washer has started making a grinding noise and shuts down mid wash. I am getting an error code F7E5 in the diagnostic mode (shifter failure). I can't find a part # to order for replacement. Can you help?
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello James, Thank you for writing in. Our research has found, PartSelect #: PS10064562 The Clutch or The Gearcase, PartSelect #: PS12741641 is causing your issue. We hope this helps.
$156.31
In Stock
CLUTCH
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Frederick - For model number MVWB765FC3
August 3, 2026
Hi ! The water won’t stop during the rinse phase ! But at the other time its fine. The tube for the pressure is ok ! So its seem to come from the pressure switch ? What do you think ?
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi Frederick, thank you for your inquiry. Washers use separate solenoid coils inside the inlet valve, part number PS12348013, for different water sources. During the rinse cycle the cold water solenoid is used almost exclusively, and if it is mechanically sticking open due to sediment or a weak internal spring it will not shut off when the control board signals it to stop. The quickest way to confirm this is to unplug the washer while water is actively running during the rinse phase. If water continues flowing after unplugging the valve is mechanically stuck open and needs to be replaced. Also, confirm the drain hose is not inserted more than 6 to 8 inches into the standpipe, a siphon effect causes continuous filling during rinse as the machine never reaches the correct water level. Glad to be of help!
$114.55
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
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Crystal - For model number MVWB765FC3
March 29, 2022
When pressing start button, washer beeps twice and does not start normally.
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Crystal, Thank you for the question. This normally indicates the Washer thinks the Lid is open. We suggest checking the switch to make sure there are no obstructions and the strike is not damaged. If they are good, you may have a faulty Lid Switch. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
$197.07
In Stock
Lid Lock Latch
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Orette - For model number MVWB765FC3
April 27, 2023
Power to machine but not lighting up
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Orette, thank you for reaching out. We believe your washer is having this problem because of the control board. We suggest you replace the control board, part number PS16217891, to fix the issue. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
$461.78
In Stock
CNTRL-ELEC
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Common Symptoms of the MVWB765FC3

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Loud grinding noise when the washer was in use.
69 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from STARKVILLE, MS
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.

open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate

2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.

3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.

4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.

5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.

6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.

7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.

8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.

9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.

10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.

11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.

12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
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Faulty fill valve
18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marian from GREYBULL, WY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Did troubleshooting after code LF showed on indicator window. Did troubleshooting; checked hoses for obstructions and small filters on inlets. All good. Ordered new fill valve. Came in a few days, good service.
Removed control panel top by removing screws on back of control panel, then by pushing putty knife under each side to rele ase spring clips. Carefully lifted cover and set onto lid. Photographed fill valve at left side as you are standing in front of machine. Removed screws with small ratchet. Carefully removed wires via clips. Lifted out valve.
Attached wires to new, set back into its place, replaced screws, tightened but not too tight so as to break part. Replaced control panel, pushing downward to engage spring clips, then replace screws on back.
Re attached hoses, ensuring they were on the correct sides, plugged machine into power, ran through cycle and VIOLA!! Worked perfectly!! After a couple weeks, still working perfectly! Was VERY happy it was only fill valve and not mother board as the cost was a fraction.
I found trouble shooting videos to be very helpful. Your service quite good.
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Washer making noise on spin cycle
20 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roy from MAYNARDVILLE, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer
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