This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This washing machine inlet valve is a genuine OEM replacement part designed to regulate water flow during the fill cycle. Controlled by an internal solenoid, the valve opens and closes as needed to al...
$113.43
In Stock
Order within the next 6 hrs and your part ships today!
This front load washer cleaner removes odor-causing residue. Use it once a month and it will keep your machine fresh and clean. Package comes with 3 tablets.
This agitator assembly is a key component in many washing machines, designed to rotate back and forth during the wash cycle to help loosen dirt and stains from clothing. It features a central shaft wi...
$109.50
In Stock
Order within the next 6 hrs and your part ships today!
If your washer isn’t spinning, agitating, or cleaning clothes like it used to, the gearcase might be the issue. This part powers the agitator and spin basket, helping your machine run smoothly. It fit...
$369.78
In Stock
Order within the next 6 hrs and your part ships today!
This drain pump is engineered for top-load washing machines and plays a vital role in the appliance’s drainage system. During the drain cycle, it efficiently removes water from the washer tub and chan...
$176.95
In Stock
Order within the next 6 hrs and your part ships today!
Order within the next 6 hrs and your part ships today!
Questions And Answers for MVWB765FC3
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Pam
May 11, 2023
My lid is cracking and not fitting tight. the plastic on lid is breaking away at hinges both sides left worse than right.
For model number MVWB765FC3
Hello Pam, thank you for contacting us. The lid, part number PS12584340, fits your model; you may need to replace it. We hope this helps.
The washer has started making a grinding noise and shuts down mid wash. I am getting an error code F7E5 in the diagnostic mode (shifter failure). I can't find a part # to order for replacement. Can you help?
For model number MVWB765FC3
Hello James,
Thank you for writing in. Our research has found, PartSelect #: PS10064562 The Clutch or The Gearcase, PartSelect #: PS12741641 is causing your issue. We hope this helps.
Hi ! The water won’t stop during the rinse phase ! But at the other time its fine. The tube for the pressure is ok ! So its seem to come from the pressure switch ? What do you think ?
For model number MVWB765FC3
Hi Frederick, thank you for your inquiry. Washers use separate solenoid coils inside the inlet valve, part number PS12348013, for different water sources. During the rinse cycle the cold water solenoid is used almost exclusively, and if it is mechanically sticking open due to sediment or a weak internal spring it will not shut off when the control board signals it to stop. The quickest way to confirm this is to unplug the washer while water is actively running during the rinse phase. If water continues flowing after unplugging the valve is mechanically stuck open and needs to be replaced. Also, confirm the drain hose is not inserted more than 6 to 8 inches into the standpipe, a siphon effect causes continuous filling during rinse as the machine never reaches the correct water level. Glad to be of help!
When pressing start button, washer beeps twice and does not start normally.
For model number MVWB765FC3
Hello Crystal, Thank you for the question. This normally indicates the Washer thinks the Lid is open. We suggest checking the switch to make sure there are no obstructions and the strike is not damaged. If they are good, you may have a faulty Lid Switch. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Hello Orette, thank you for reaching out. We believe your washer is having this problem because of the control board. We suggest you replace the control board, part number PS16217891, to fix the issue. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.
open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate
2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.
3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it. Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.
4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.
5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.
6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.
7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.
8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.
9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.
10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.
11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.
12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
Did troubleshooting after code LF showed on indicator window. Did troubleshooting; checked hoses for obstructions and small filters on inlets. All good. Ordered new fill valve. Came in a few days, good service. Removed control panel top by removing screws on back of control panel, then by pushing putty knife under each side to release spring clips. Carefully lifted cover and set onto lid. Photographed fill valve at left side as you are standing in front of machine. Removed screws with small ratchet. Carefully removed wires via clips. Lifted out valve. Attached wires to new, set back into its place, replaced screws, tightened but not too tight so as to break part. Replaced control panel, pushing downward to engage spring clips, then replace screws on back. Re attached hoses, ensuring they were on the correct sides, plugged machine into power, ran through cycle and VIOLA!! Worked perfectly!! After a couple weeks, still working perfectly! Was VERY happy it was only fill valve and not mother board as the cost was a fraction. I found trouble shooting videos to be very helpful. Your service quite good.
Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer
