MSF25D4XAB00 Refrigerator - Instructions

Same as everybody else on this post. Real easy. Actually, I just wish I would have done it sooner.

That was due to the evaporator blocked by the ice. Check found the defrost timer is okay. The next thing I can think of is to replace the Electronic Control Board which is installed in the fridge side top compartment. Ply open the face cover, remove the nut and screw that secure the EC Board. Pull out the cable, mount the new card and re-connect. So simple. It is back in order.

watched video. Very easy

This is in a rental house; Refrigerator/freezer has been off for a few weeks so just opened the freezer door and used screwdriver to pry out one corner then pliers to grab and pull old gasket (seal) off. Had the new one laid out overnight to relax it; placed one corner on and then the opposite corner then repeated the other two corners. Positioned the keeper edge plastic all of the way around to place the gasket in the door. Closed the door to check the seal and plugged unit back in. Waited and then checked air temp with hand held IR temp gauge. All checked good, no cold spots anywhere. Piece of cake!

remove shelves in freezer compartment incl.holders(slide up to remove)
Remove lamp/shield
Remove panel (six phillips screws)
disconnect motor
pull off fan blade
squeeze bracket holding motor to remove
remove motor.
Re-assemble (in reverse)

First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.

This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

New part slipped right into the studs and fit perfectly

Removing the panels inside the freezer section was the most difficult ,because it is narrow,hard to fit your body inside compartment, in order to cut wires and to splice Bi-metal Defrost Thermostat wires (2 ) Watch the videos on the web site so you know where to start. First time I ever "repaired " a large appliance, saved me over $ 600.00 (that's what the people I bought the Refrigerator from wanted to charge me.) My parts cost 65.00 !!!!! My younger brother turned me onto the web site... , I'll be returning to the site and telling my friends about it. It's a total "rip off" what service organizations charge the general public these days from Car Dealer ships to the stores we purchase our appliances from. !!! Glad I still have my health and faculties to repair the essentials we have around our homes. !!!!

Took off the cover, pulled out the old filter, inserted the new one and closed the door.

I began by replacing the central light board by using a plastic non-marring wedge type tool slipping it between the housing and the retainers to release the latch like catch. Then I removed the lightboard and light cover assembly by depressing the latch like retainers for the two wire connectors. Installation was as simple as snapping the wires into the connectors and then pushing the lightboard and light cover assembly into place. One major note: I learned from a repairman that you cannot resolve the problem by simply replacing the central lightboard. you must replace all three lightboards, the two in the refrigerator and the one in the freezer because unless you can absolutely identify which board is causing the fault, it will continue to cause a problem on the main board and the lights will not work. Replacing the other two boards is the same as the central board. Additional comment to consider: I absolutely fail top see how this design of using three circuit boards for a simple light saves me anything; in fact after only 5 years it has cost me in excess of $400 (or 20% of the original cost of the unit) just in materials for a simple light--absurd, ridiculous design. If it burns out again I will have an appliance repairman install a simple 1950's design switch a small LED bulb which will probably last longer than the unit.

Removed ice bin then pulled front cover with nut driver . Pull small rod from side ( one screw holding rod and spring). Pull auger out. Take plastic nut off end ( CLOCKWISE) LEFT HAND THREAD. Keep all ice crusher blades in order when you pull them off. Install new auger and reverse steps. web site has exploded view. It looks difficult but it isn't.

Using a 1/4" nut driver and a philips screwdriver I removed all the screws in the shelf brackets and coil cover and removed coil cover. Removed fan blade and then faulty motor (held in with clips) Installed new motor-two wires (power) and ground (green) pushed fan blade back on and tested, then reinstalled all panels and shelf brackets.

When the filter arrived, I removed it from the package.
Upon reading the instructions, I removed the old filter.
When I removed the old filter I NOTICED HOW IT CAME
OUT SO THAT I COULD HOLD THE NEW FILTER IN
THE SAME POSITION AND REPLACED IT WITH THE
NEW IN THE SAME POSITION. When I closed the cover
door, I went to the display panel and reset water filter display.

I was not able to unplug the refrigerator because it is housed in a built-in. I removed the icemaker and following simple instructions from YouTube was able to pry the cover off the existing part. After a few gentle tugs, I disconnected the pinned wires from the old part. Connecting the new part was a little tricky but I managed with a little contorting. As soon as the pins connected the freezer light as well as the refrig lights came on. It took about 15 minutes to complete.