MNSR1090H2WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Removed the front panel with a stiff putty knife, removed the worn belt. Placed the new belt on the front pully and than the rear pully, turning clockwise. After checking the spin cycle I put the front panel back on and I was done.

We pulled up diagrams online and read a lot about the repairs. Four screws on top took off the electrical panel. Two clips hidden under the front of the top panel released the front panel. We followed the clear tube up to the water level pressure switch. We disconnected the previous switch, and connected the new one, one wire at a time. We tested and found that the water now stopped filling. Put the washer back together - done! Cost - $30 and 1/2 a hour total vs. calling a repair person.

Just used hands to pry open the old agitator from the washer. If one angle does not work try another and go in a clockwise direction. The new agitator had a new coupling at the bottom, so I needed something to push it out from the top, found a long metal rod and easily pushed it down and out. Verified that new coupling was exactly the same as the old one. The old one was good so I just pushed the new agitator down on the old coupling and it worked fine.

Most washers I looked at do not use a start capacitor but my model did and after testing the capacitor it showed open and was slightly deformed. If you have a this problem the capacitor is located behind the front panel about half way up on the right side zip tied to the side of the washer. It is always good to check the capacitor before spending big bucks for a motor you may not need.

Worse machine ever made. Installed all parts per videos .they helped a lot. Inner tub went on crooked and first wash ruined inner/outer tubs top piece. Took to dump.

First I pulled off the front panel using a flat blade screwdriver to get it started. Then I could watch what happening as I tried starting the washer. When I put the dial to the Rinse Cycle and pulled the dial to start the washer, it would start to run for about 5 seconds and then stop. I tried this several times and the same thing happened. I noticed the water pump located in the front lower right hand corner was not running. It would only hum. I drained the tub by holding the wash machine drain hose into a bucket. If I held the hose down toward the floor, the water would flow freely out of the hose and into my bucket. As the bucket filled up I just raised the hose, emptied the bucket and repeated the process until the tub was empty. Sure saved time over trying to empty the tub by bailing the water out with a can. After the tub was drained I removed the two hoses from the pump and then the two mounting bolts and the pump was out. I bench checked the pump with an electric cord and it stilled just hummed. I knew for sure then the pump was bad.

I then ordered a new pump from PartsSelect.com. I entered my wash machine model number and PartsSelect gave me a picture of the replacement pump. I was a little worried that it did not look the same as my old pump but I ordered it any how. The night I got the pump I installed it in about 30 minutes. No problems, it just worked like a charm. Thank you PartsSelect.com I will definitely use you for all my appliance repairs in the future. I know there will be more.

1) Unplug empty washing machine
2) Remove switch panel with star screw driver
3) Gently remove ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing from the water level pressure switch
4) From the front of the washing machine switch panel, pull water level switch knob straight off
5) Apply pressure to tin metal middle that holds the pressue switch in place so that the pressure switch can be rotated out of switch panel
6) Twist pressure switch off of the switch panel clockwise (from the front of the washing machine)
7) Set old pressure switch to the side
8) Place new pressure switch in tin groves and snap into place (the middle tap that you applied pressure to lock the pressure switch back into place)
9) Connect ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing to the pressure switch
10) Close washing machine panel and screw in all of the star screws
11) Push pressure switch knob back onto the pressure switch after aligning the hole to the rod

Should be noted that the basket must be rotated on installation to find the best balance point!

I pulled agitator off revealing rotted hub. Had to remove inner basin from machine. This required pulling off top and tying up to be out off way . I had to get the control panel out of way. Removed back screws and moved it up as though hinged. I had to remove the water fill piece, as this was impeding removal of basin. I had to remove top ring off of inner drum. Needed a second person to hold control panel away as I removed drum. Once drum was out, it was an easy task to replace the rotted hub. I then needed to get the portion that was rotted and still on drive out. Could not wrench the hub nut out due to lack of leverage. Split nut with a chisel. Once old nut out, I cleaned up threads, put inner basin back in, again utilizing assistance in holding control panel out of way. Reinstalled in order. Before I had gone too far, I found that a six pronged jumper had fallen off of the controls. Found where it had been and re-installed. Put remainder back in reverse order. Machine back on line, and working properly.

Open back cover and found that drain pump had a bad seal. Took it apart and bought new seal some what same size. Put everything togather and start washing clothers and wife complained that it became wost the before. When on line and found pump and price was just right to take a risk. Ordered on sunday and got ups tuesday.
Replaced pump on Sunday and leak was gone and wife was happy.

------Got chicken and beer that Sunday--------------

I removed four hex screws from the top of the washer. I found the water level pressure switch and removed the dial. I turned it to remove it from the holding bracket. I removed both wires one at a time and placed them in the new switch one at a time so I wouldn't get them mixed up. I put the new switch in place and put the top back on using the hex screws. The dial was replaced. When I tested the dial I found that the dial did not match up to the water settings. They didn't even come close. Although the numbers were close on the switches, they were different. I had to remove the new switch and put the old one back on until I can locate the correct switch for my washer.

removed washer front panel, top panel to access the water fill spout and hose. Disconnected and replaced.
personnel at part select were very knowledgable about detailed part and the overnight service was right on time.
I would recommend part select for your next appliance parts needs.

The hose has a tapered end that fits in a tapered hole in the back of the washing machine.When insalled the first time,the joint leaked badly.My solution was to coat the hose end and the interior of the hole in the back of the washing machine with silicon sealant;let it set up for a few minutes and install the new hose.This solved the leak and the hose seems to be working fine now.

After reading all the repair info and reviewing the diagram for my wash machine on this website I was ready to tear into my washer. I removed the front panel and lid to access the tub, pulled out the plastic agitator and revealed the broken inner base hub. The base hub was cracked half way around causing the inner tub to drop down and drag on the outer tub, making the washer sound like it was coming through the wall on a spin cycle. I then unbolted the plastic cap and removed it revealing the hub nut. The most valuable piece of advice in the repair info was abouthe hub nut being a laft hand thread (clockwise to loosen)and that it was on really tight and hard to remove. I put a short 8" pipe wrench on it, because of the lack of clearance in the tub, and hit it with the handle of a all steel hammer to break it loose. Unbolted the balancing straps (4) on the plastic top rim cap that holds the tub in place, unsnapped and removed it, then carefully pulled out the tub. I also had to unscrew the the control panel to reveal and remove the 4 screws holding the fill tube brace so I could push it back to remove the tub. I then took the inner tub outside and took it apart, 3 parts. The top plastic rim, the tub, and the broken base hub that are held together with torx screws. Then it was cleanup time, very dirty on the inside, used a garden hose, scrub brush, sponge, and soap. Cleaned up the hub nut threads with a wire brush and then the outer tub withe a sponge and shop vac. When the base hub broke it caused the inner tub and outer tub to rub together making a groove and plastic shards on the bottom of the outer tub that I had to scrape and sand smooth. A shop vac an absolute necessity in getting all the grime and plastic crumbs out of the outer tub so they don't get in and clog the pump. I received the replacement parts in 2 days! Reassembled in reverse order and everything worked great! Not a bad project at all when you know what to expect, thanks to Part Select.com.

Took front of washer off,found that all of the straps were broke ,removed two small bolts from each strap pulled plastic support from from broken strap and put it in new strap,put plastic supported end of strap in first put bolt in and mounted other end to drum,easy job just about any one with common since could do it.Got to go laundry to wash :-)