MLE20PDBYW2 - Instructions

First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--

Watch the video. Very, very easy

popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale

Washer was on a 13 inch high platform I built for front.load Heat washer and dryer. Removed 3.screws from bottom of front panel and had access to all 4 shocks..front and rear. All shocks were unattachedeither at base or on tub. Easy to install all 3 from front without moving Mach. I figured if 1 or 2 shocks failed the violent.movement broke the other 2. Purrs like.a.kitten now. No bearing.or spring.damage.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

How to repair E1 error/fault on Whirlpool Duet dryer model GEW9200LW0 please watch that video very helpful.

As video instructed

Took it old pump and replaced with new pump VERY EASY

It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.

The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order

I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

I just took off the old part and installed the new one. The new part was a bit different.

After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.

Since i knew the filter was cleared of obstructions I knew the code issue was something more serious. After consulting with local repair reps I decided that the drain pump was beginning to slow down causing the faults. First, I took the lower front panel off the front of the washing machine so that I could drain the water out of the plumbing. After draining the water out of the pump into a pan, I went ahead and then lifted the front of the washer (and dryer on top of it) and tilted it back far enough so that my wife could place some blocking under the front of the washer. I did this so that I could access two screws on the bottom of the pump. First disconnect the wire socket connection to the motor. Make sure power is off before doing this. There is plastic clip holding the wires to the motor that may need a screwdriver to pry it apart for removal. There are two 1.5" long screws holding the pump to the frame that require at least 4" of space so that you can remove them with a socket. After removing the two pump screws I disconnected both pump hoses from the pump. This requires pliers for one clamp and screwdriver or nut driver for the other clamp. My machine originally came with one clamp that could not be removed, so I had to use a dremel with a stone to cut the clamp. You have to be careful to not damage the hose when cutting the clamp if it cannot be removed with tools. I replaced it with a 2" typical standard stainless steel hose clamp. Carefully wiggling the pump while pushing it to the side it will loosen up so that the front of the pump can be pulled up. One side needs to have the plastic plate pried apart from underneath and after removing it the pump will come free to lift out. Reverse the removal process for re-installation. It is a little tricky holding the squeeze clamp open while pulling the hose onto the pump, but it is not too difficult. Before putting the front panel on run one load of laundry to make sure there are no leaks. Once you find there are no leaks, then tilt the machine up and back to reattach the front panel. It is much easier to do it this way than with the machine on the floor since the panel screw are on the bottom of the panel at floor level.

First tilt the washer back so you can drain water from the lines to the pump and the pump itself. Disconnect the lines with a pair of pliers and use a screwdriver to move the rubber stopper so that the pump will move to the right. With pump now in position to lift up and out of the washer , do it so you can disconnect the wire assembly. Replace the pump starting with the wires, then slide it in place and secure it with the rubber stopper. Attach the lines and make sure they are well sitted and clamped. set on feet and you are ready to wash.