MHN30PDAWW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Pretty straight forward , It is a tight work are especially laying on your stomach. To make installation easier I recommend buying a 3-4 inch hose clamp instead of trying to use the old pinch style clamp. You will only need a zip tie if you reuse the existing clamps. remember to remove the plastic ball from the old rubber hose into the new hose.

Removed top and front lower panels remove door panel.Remove ring from boot seal don’t damage seal.Replace hose,reassemble.Job is a lot easier if you purchase tool to re-install door ring seal.Tool is available from several sites on the net.

Boyfriend followed directions and YouTube and I’m sooooo grateful!! My door shuts easily.. I love my machine and my man with your directives and your parts made my magic happen!!

Removed top lid (only to be able to remove pressure sensor hose easily). Removed hose clamps and tied the ends together in order to keep in loose position. Then squeezed the damaged hose up between sidewall and tub to remove pressure sensor rubber pipe. Installed Hose with clamps tied in the loose position with thin wire. Attached the pressure sensor pipe. Loosened the thin wire holding clamps loose. Tested for leaks by running washer. Leak repaired.

raised front of machine about 6 inchs bigest pain is getting water out after that its easy.open drain just a bit other wise it will pour out all over about 4 pots worth if its full

After further investigation I realized that the original dispenser hose from the soap bin to the inner tip was the cause of the leak. Before this repair, I replaced the bellows. And as part of that replacement process you have to remove the washer dispenser hose from the inner tub so that I could complete the bellows installation. However when I put everything back together the old washer dispenser hose was leaking terribly. This was fixed easily with a new hose and an 1-1 3/4 inch hose clamp. I found an installation video that allows you to come from the top down to replace this hose but for my model of washer and because the drier was stacked on top, I took apart the front of the washer since I learned from a different video how to do this in order to install the bellows. No more leaking at all with the new hose.

Shocks are the #1 recommendation for this problem, but they were not the solution. The problem turned out to be broken weld in the stainless tub. Three of the shocks can be replaced from the front, the one under the motor can only be accessed from the back of the machine, which means it has to be pulled out away from the wall. Taking the old ones out is kind of a pain, they don't twist off easily and there is little room to use tool. Putting the new ones in is easy, they just twist into place.

I watched the installation video and ordered the part. When it came I reviewed the video and did the repair. Really the only time I used the screwdriver was to get the old wheel off the back part of the unbroken section of the mounting strip so I could use it on the new mounting strip.

Thank You so much for the other stories folks wrote on here! We were getting an F21 code on a regular basis. After finding a necklace and about $2.50 in change in the filter tray we found the problem. Over time I thought the washer was getting louder but it was so gradule that we really did not realize it.I had read other posts on here and ordered a new pump. After taking out 3 screws and 2 clamps the pump came right out and went in just as easy. Less than 15 minutes and we were back in business with a wisper quiet washing machine,Thanks Again everyone, Mike D.

I drained the water out of the pump area. Then took off all clamps and holding brackets. Next I pulled off the quick connect power plug. Then I put new pump in the way I took old pump out. The hardest part was unscrewing the bracket from underneath the washer. Cloth washer working fine.

Took less than 5 minutes to replace, So Happy;-)

replaced mounting strip and two wheels

Followed instructions from a You Tube video. I'd recently lost my job and money is tight and I thought we could save money doing it myself. By watching the video and ordering parts from you we were able to save $500 between parts and labor. Thanks

First unplug the washer. Make sure and drain washer completely. If not drained remove front panel , Remove 2.5 inch Plastic drain cover which has a catch bin on it. This will allow it to drain the washer. Put pan underneath to catch the water. Tip washer back and prop up with something 6 inches tall to get to the screws underneath. A cement block would work well. Use pliers to squeeze hose clamp together to remove the Hoses. Gently lift up The flip down cover Over the top of the wire harness Push in the tab on the wire harness, Gently pull back on the wire harness. Remove two mountings screws from the bottom of the washer. Slide the whole pump housing to the right and Lift up. Now the pump is been removed. Inspect inside the hoses For Debrie. Remove anything that is left in the hoses. Reinstall the pump in reverse order from the way you took it off. Leave front panel off Make sure all hoses and wire harness are hooked up. Run wash cycle to make sure there are no leaks. Do not put hands in while running. If no leaks replace front panel. Not sure if this is the right way But this is the way we did it and it worked well. Washer runs quieter now than it did when we got it

other than needing a new type of screw driver (not philips or flat head, but rather a starfish looking thing), the replacement was simple. took 5 minutes (after finding the correct driver)