MGS5770ADW Maytag Range - Instructions

First I opened the door to the oven. Then I opened the box that the part came in. (knife) I then slid the oven rack out of the box and unwrapped the plastic, being careful not to bend or scratch the new rack. Now, this is the tricky part... I had to move the existing rack down one space to make room for the new one. Then carefully slid the new rack in, tipping it slightly and sliding it in. LOL

removed oven door, removed screws from bottom and sided, door is in layers, removed door layers like taking apart a sanwhich layer by layer, once i got to the inner layer i just had to bend out the little tab on the frame,remove the broken pane and place in the new one, bend the tab back and then put the door back together layer by layer, it was very easy and saved me money, and frustration in dealing with a repair man from a well known company who tried to tell me I needed to replace the whole door as the glass was factory sealed in the door, WELL! this girl's hair may be blonde but not that blonde, I received the glass the very next day, and it took me 40 minutes tops to replace the glass, EASY! KC

1st removed the door from the hinges by sliding it up. Then removed all the screws holding the door together. Then removed the screw securing the trim. Removed the screws from inside the trim holding the old handle... replaced the handle and trim. replaced all screws in reverse order. Replaced the door on the hinges. all done

First I removed the oven door for easier access then, removed the oven grates and bottom pan. Then there is a wing nut that holds the heat deflector in place over the manifold thats needs to be removed. Now you can see the igniter, remove the 2 small hex head screws and disconnect electrical connection.
Simply reverse the sequence to reinstall.
This may sound like alot to do but it only took 15 minutes to complete and I'm not an appliance repair person. Anyone who is somewhat of a handyman can accomplish this job.

I ordered the door glass from Part Select, which arrived quickly and in good condition. I loosened two sets of screws under the bottom glass holder frame, removed three screws at the top of the door to give more room. Slid the glass in place, re-installed and tightened the screws.The stove door looks great and works great. Great customer service too.

Remove racks and pull out stove from wall. Remove back cover from stove. Unscrew and unplug sensor. Rethread new sensor wire through hole and plug in new sensor and rescrew plate that holds in place.

We had complications because of how the stove was installed, which delayed the "fix" time considerably.

Also installed ignitor. It was determined that both were bad. Gas would come on but not light. When oven would light, it would not re-light periodically to keep the temperature up, causing gas smell. This added time to repair of an additional 1 hour, and required removal of bottom drawer.

The burner rusted after years of spaghetti pots boiling over. When I went to twist the the burner to remove it the top portion broke off. This left the bottom side of the burner stuck into the cook-top. I put some 3-in-1 oil on the rusted rim for a day or two. I had to drill the phillips head screw and twist it with a vise grip. I used a pair of pliers to grab the center of the broken-off burner part. After a few tries it broke loose and was out. The rest was easy. I recommend sealing the rim between the burner and the cook-top. I used silicone sealant. This should keep the water from leaking underneath the burner and into the cook-top.

Turned gas and electricity off first. Pulled out the bottom pan so I could access the igniter. Removed two screws holding the igniter next to the burner tube, unplugged the igniter from the back of the stove and then pulled the plug threw into the oven. Mounted new igniter and then pulled the plug threw and plugged it back in. Reinstalled bottom pan and I was done in 15 - 20 minutes. VERY EASY TO DO...

My oven stopped working and the display read F3 error. I looked up the code and found that it was probably the thermostat sensor. I ordered the part from partselect.com and when it arrived I went to install it but I ran into a somewhat scary issue. I found that I had to pull my oven out of the wall in order to replace the sensor.

After a minor nervous breakdown, I decided to go for it and found that it was much easier than I had imagined. Changing the sensor involves taking out the two screws that hold the sensor in place (inside of the oven), pulling it out to the point you can reach the connector, plugging in the new sensor and screwing it back in place. However, if you have an oven like my model, you have to pull out the whole oven from the wall in order to reach the plug on the sensor. This sounds like a lot of trouble but for me it was very easy. The oven is held in place with screws around the front side. Most are easily accessed and you don't have to take out any critical/complicated pieces of the oven. My screw gun made short issue of the problem and I found that the oven was out of the wall within minutes. I could then easily unscrew a small back cover, change the sensor and then screw the oven back into the wall. Being very careful, the whole operation took about 20 minutes. I recommend that you get help from a friend just because the oven is bulky. It is not heavy, an average sized male can handle the weight but it’s easier with a friend. Also, be careful that the gas hose which feeds the oven is long enough (and not tangled) for you to move the oven out of its space. Obviously, be careful about gas leaks.

SHUT OFF GAS
disconnect FLEX LINE from gas PIPE
remove GAS pipe from rear of stove
remove rear panel
remove pre-shaped gas lines to burners and oven / broiler
separate dual control valve from pressure regulator
disconnect wiring from dual control valve
REASSEMBLE in OPPOSITE order
turn on gas
CHECK ALL FITTINGS FOR POSSIBLE LEAKS
Turn on each BURNER - making sure EACH one lites
turn on oven - making sure that the OVEN igniter lites the OVEN
set control on BROIL
turn on broiler - making sure that the BROILER
igniter lites the BROILER

Step1: Remove oven door. Open oven door about 3-4 inches and pull up with 2 hands.

Step2: Turn oven light ON so you can see.

Step3: Remove bottom tray by pulling on the 2 rear clips and lift tray up and out of the oven.

Step4: Using a nut driver remove the 2 nuts holding the ignitor in place. If nuts are rusted from heat spray a tiny bit of WD-40 on them and totally wipe off any excess when finished removing the nuts.

Step5:Pull wire from old ignitor through the insulation and unplug it from its connection.

Step6: Plug in new ignitor and push it back through the insulation and fasten it back in position with the 2 nuts.

Step7: Re-install bottom tray and door and CONGRATULATIONS cause you just saved yourself about $150! by DIY And you never again will be eating semi-raw chicken or better yet, take the money you just saved and treat yourself and your family to a sushi dinner.

I would like to thank Partselect.com for their quick delivery and very reasonable price on the Ignitor I purchased.

Regards.

Pulled the oven away from wall to access rear of oven. Disconnect electric plug from duplex outlet, turn off gas supply ball valve. Removed two screws that retain sensor on inside of oven. Disconnected two prong sensor connector at rear of oven. Tied a length of string to sensor connector wires. Pulled old sensor out through front of oven. Use the string to tie onto new sensor connector wires and pull new sensor into place from rear of oven. Retain sensor with two screws. At back of oven, used connector jumper supplied with part package to make connection to existing connector.

The door trim is held in place by five (5) screws. First I removed the two (2) side screws and then the three bottom screws. Be very careful because the trim holds the front glass panel in place. The repair can be made without removing the front door of the oven. Just remove the bottom drawer to get to the bottom three screws. Took approx. 15 to 20 minutes to complete. That's because I took the time to clean the inside of the glass panel. Really easy!

Take a few screws off the back of the slide in burner module. Take off the back. Unscrew the ignitor screw, remove ignitor carefully, replace with the new ignitor, put the screw back in, put the back back on, try it out! Ours worked after a couple of tries - don't know if the ignitor had to "rev up" by several sparks or we just didn't have it properly installed at first. Anyway, very easy. Did it in my pajamas on a Saturday morning.

Removed old burners using adjustable wrench; about a quarter turn counter clock wise and lifted up. Removed igniter wires. Had to remove solder tab on new burner to match wire's connector then simply attached to new burner. Replaced burner and turned quarter turn clockwise and done.