MGS5770ADA Maytag Range - Instructions

It was so easy, I pushed the panel towards the back and lifted the front up then lifted it right out. I am so glad that you had the part. I ordered it and when it got here, I just sliped it right in, perfect fit! Thank you so much! Cindy Brison

Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...

After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

First I removed the burner to which the igniter was attached to. Then I attempted to removed the two screws holding the igniter in place. However, these screws proved to be difficult. I called a local appliance repair shop and the person I spoke to explained how the screws were designed to go one way. Any attempt to remove these screws would result in the threading to be stripped and virtually impossible to remove. (I have never heard of these type of screws before) Anyway, he recommended a hack-saw. Well, the hack-saw worked. After that, the replacing of the part was very easy. Igniter works perfectly and now my wife is ready to conquer the bake sales.
This was my first time using partselect.com.
Yes, I will recommend them to other homeowners.
Thanks. A.T

igniter would heat but oven wouldnt come on or would intermittently.opened door a little and lifted it off removed racks and bottom shield removed wingnut and burner shield,removed 2 screws holding igniter ,took off lower shield to allow access to plug,unplugged old one plugged in new one replaced shield and 2 screws holding igniter,put oven back together in reverse order,works like new :) ps if unit not unplugged from wall be careful igniter is hot with electricity and will bite you OUCH!

I located the igniter element, and remove the two screws that hold it in place. I then went around to the back of the oven and located the wire, and disconnected it. Then I pulled it out through the oven and removed it. I then replaced it with the new element; pushed the wires through to back of the stove and plugged it in. With that done, I screwed the new igniter element into place. I then put my oven back together; pushed it back into place and turned the gas back on. And presto! my oven lights like new again. I saved myself the costly repairman visit, and the job was easy.

Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.

After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

0. Throw oven circuit breaker 1. Open oven door and slide/lift door off of hinge posts 2. Remove oven drawer 3. Slide oven out from between cabinets and turn so that the back is accessible. 4. remove Phillips screws holding the cover-rear and side panel to the stove. Note which screws have pan heads and which are hex head. 5. remove stove elements and pans 6. Raise stove Top Assembly and release ceramic element sockets from their clips. 7. Push the supports for the Top Assembly fornt and back to release them from their sockets so that the Top Assembly can be lifted to near vertical. 8. Remove the hex head screw holding the Control Panel End Cap to the side panel. (Steps 5-7 might be avoided if you have a small socket wrench that can get to this screw without removing the elements.) 9. Remove the other screws holding the top of the side panel to the "Box Burner" pan that sits under the Top Assembly. 10. Pull side panel slightly away from the oven and lift it to disconnect it from the posts that hold the side panel to the front of the oven. 11. Remove the two screws on the front of the oven that hold the hing mechanism. 12. tilt and remove the hinge. 13. Open the replacement hinge so that it can fit through the hinge opening in the front of the oven. 14. Reassemble.

Removed the drawer and the flash plate underneath .
Unplugged the igniter then opened the & removed the over door . Lifted the bottom plate to expose the burner and igniter . Undo the 2 screws holding the igniter in place . Replace the igniter and reach underneath and plug the wire connecters together . Place all the proper things in their place .. and it was finished ...
The biggest snag I ran into was the one of the 2 screws stripped out when when taken things apart .. but I have taps and found a few new screws and replaced them ......
Quite easy fix .. don't a pay repair man to do it .... !!

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

just turn the burners counter clock wise with the help of a jar opener pad. unplug the wire connectors and replace the burners no hassle, no problem. Everything went fine… one thing though, it is not the same color as it was before. I didn’t realize it until opening the box. Previous color was grey. My wife is Ok with it, so I won’t complain, but maybe you should add the color option if there is more than one choice.

Best regards.

I first matched the symptom (very long preheat time/gas odor) with the most likely problem (faulty oven gas igniter). I then wrote the model # and Googled gas oven repair and got to your website. I then located the faulty part within about 5 clicks and proceeded to order the exact part within another 5 or so clicks. I received my order from PartSelest in 2 days and had the oven working with the new igniter in about 10 minutes....Then it dawned on me---"Hey, I should be a Maytag Repair Man."
Thanks for the prompt delivery and the correct installation instructions. I will absolutely use your service again. (Not too soon, I hope !)