MGR6775BDB Maytag Range - Instructions

My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.

shut off gas and unpluged stove pulled it away from wall removed(2)screws from (top left inside oven)unpluged old sensor in back(left side)and pull old wire thru feed wire from new sensor thru hold pluged in put(2)screws back in done(***used drinking straw and tape to feed new wire thru hole***)

The range in my classroom had the leveling legs broke off by the summer staff. I ordered two new leveling legs and the night custodian replaced them in about 45 minutes and them leveled the stove. Parts were just as stated and easy to order.

Removed grills, lower burner cover and burner inlet cover. I then pulled burner out far enough until plug for igniter was exposed. Unclipped wire connection by squeezing in retainer clip and then pulled apart. Pulled burner tube/igniter assembly out and removed two igniter retaining screws. Then reinstalled in reverse order.

It was easy because the clips were already on the new door gasket. Just had to remove old door gasket and replace it with the new one. Very simple job.

I followed the instructions on this website. Luckily a friend showed me where the sensor was located and from there, it was a breeze. Removed six screws on the back oven panel, removed two screws inside of the oven, took the old sensor out and put the new sensor in. Voila - works great. I can't tell you how much I appreciate Parts Select and the feedback and help from the customers. I've been out of work for almost two years and when I called my repair guy, he said it could be the computer and that would be expensive. That's when I searched on line and found Parts Select. I would have never even attempted this on my own if it weren't for you and it was so simple. Next time anything goes wrong with an appliance, I'll be contacting you first! Thank you.

Removed old gasket and replaced with new gasket'

The lower oven would not heat up, the temperature stayed at 100. I'm pretty sure the same instructions apply for the upper oven. This is a pretty straightforward repair with a couple of minor bear traps. 1) Remove the oven door by simply lifting it up off the hinges. Not absolutely necessary, but helpful to get your head inside the oven. Not a bad idea to vacuum out the oven floor at this stage. 2) Remove the two Philips head screws at the front of the burner pan cover - the screws are at the very bottom inside the oven. 3) The pan cover lifts straight out of the oven, set it to the side. 4) Remove the burner cover held down by either one or two wing nuts - my oven only had one wing nut from the factory - nice job Maytag on your quality control!! 5) Loosen the screw holding down the burner cover in the far back right corner. This cover is a steel rectangular box that is a shield for the burner gas / air connection. Turn the box around to expose the burner end. 6) Remove the two screws that hold down the burner assembly. One screw is at the very front of the oven. The other screw is on the left side of the burner at the rear. Do NOT remove the pan held down by 6 or more screws. On my oven, the left rear screw was stripped. It stripped in a very weird way that took a long time to remove it. The threads inside the metal were fine, but the threads that had been exposed to heat were brittle and fell off. That meant the screw backed out about 3/4 of the way and then kept turning. This is where pliers come in handy. It will take some pulling up and turning with pliers to get those stripped screws out. I didn't want to cut off the screw because the cut out part would fall back into the lower pan. 7) Pull the oven out from the wall and unplug it from the electicity. Remove the 3 screws holding the left rear metal panel in place. There are two screws along the far left side and one down lower on the right. The panel is connected to the one next to it with tabs. 8) Unplug the ignitor. There is a white fireproof wire that comes up from the bottom of the oven that plugs into a white automotive style clip connector. Push the tab to release the clip and unplug the wire. 9) Wrap some stray wire or string around the plug to use as a pull wire when reassembling the oven. 10) Go back to the front of the oven and lift out the burner, be careful not wo pull your pull wire all the way out of the oven. Untie the pull wire. 11) Remove the two philips head screws that hold the ignitor to the burner bracket. 12) Reassemble! Attach the new ignitor with the two screws. 13) Push the wire into the lower part of the oven. 14) Go to the back of the oven and pull the wire through the oven wall. 15) Drop the burner in, making sure it mates up with the gas tube in the back right. 16) Flip the rectangular burner shield back and tighten it down. 16) Replace the two screws that hold down the burner tube, front and rear. 17) Replace the burner shield with the wing nut(s). 18) Replace the burner cover, or floor of the oven. 19) Go to the back of the oven, plug in the ignitor wire. 20) Replace the rear panel cover and secure it with the three screws. JOB FINISHED! Plug in the stove and push it back. The oven takes a few minutes to start heating, you should be able to see orange glow around the slots in the floor of the oven.

Open door,release door hing latches on both sides by pulling down metal tabs, lift door to remove.Remove three screws at top of door and three at bottom to remove front glass.once you remove glass you will find two brackets on each side with two screws each remove these screws to access panel with door handle. Remove door handle screws and install everything back in reverse order.Note: pay attention how the two brackets come apart because there is a left and right. I made this mistake or i would have completed a couple mins. sooner. Enjoy

I tried to take it out from the inside as the vidio shows. But it would not come out far enough. I pulled out the stove and removed back sheet metal panel. Unpluged the electric, Unhooked the temp sensor,pulled it out from the oven side. Put the new one through the hole,and rehooked it up. And got to clean up the dust and my missing oatmeal I spilled a while back. Turned it on. Checked it with a spare temp gage. Works so far.

I lifted the burner tray from stove turned it upside down then removed six small screws from side of cover pan then I removed the cover then I removed the screws from the back of the old burners and igniter.Then I turned the old burner counter clockwise and it lifted out easly. the igniter is removed with no problem. The new burner is put in place and turned clockwise to lock in place.Then replace then the gas tubes and igniter and igniter wire then put tray cover on.

Door comes out by lifting up..remove perimeter screws...would have taken less time except I got in the way of my husband getting it done.....

I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.

1. Opened oven door and removed bottom covers plates to expose igniter and removed it. 2. Located hole in oven rear where the igniter connector and leads went through. 3. Pulled oven forward to allow access to rear bottom left cover plate where leads came through and removed plate to obtain access. 4. Installed replacement igniter in place of old iginter and ran its leads and connector through the oven hole. 5. Since the new igniter connector was unlike the old one, I had to replace the new igniter connector with the old one. Allowing sufficient lengths to properly make splices, I cut the igniter connectors off so that I could eventually match the mating connecter to the oven control circuit. I used a wire striper and pliers to make good splices. I covered the splices with plastic wire nuts normally used for insulating splices. I left the splices and the igniter connector outside the oven back for protection from the heat inside the oven. 6. After ensuring that oven insulation material was positioned to essentially cover the hole where the connector wires go through, I replaced the cover plate at rear of the oven and the cover plates inside the oven. 7. I checked oven for proper operation and found it now to be OK. Range was returned to normal position..problem corrected.

A fairly simple fix that this website did a nice job helping me diagnose and select the part. Only tricky part was the electrical connector on the range side had been cut so I had to splice the wires which wasn't a big problem. Just take your time to find the nuts and replace one part with another.