MFI2568AES Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.

Pushed the hinge pins aside and removed the old lid.. Reversed the process to install the new lid

Maytag Ice2-0 French Door refrigerator

Our refrigerator started slamming the icemaker door open and shut one evening. Investigation of the card behind the icemaker control panel (the LV control card) on the left-hand door revealed that the +12 volt supply that the card receives via J1 pin 3 was running at about 7 volts. As part of this investigation, I found that a wiring diagram for the fridge is in a sticky envelope behind the kickplate/grill at the bottom front of the 'fridge.

I was confused for a while because the +12 volt supply is floating, so measurements against the 'fridge frame gave very strange results. When I figured that one out, I got consistent results by measuring against J1 pin 1.

I disconnected J6 from the HV control card, located at the back of the 'fridge, and found that the +12 volt supply recovered to about 11.9 volts, so I suspected that the problem was that it was being loaded down by something. This supply gos to three places...the icemaker fan, the LV control card, and the evaporator fan (in some units)

I eventually found how to access the connector that feeds the icemaker, and disconnected it, in order to eliminate the ice fan from the supply. This made no difference, and the resistance across the supply was now 2800 ohms with J6 disconnected. I also noted that the two smoothing capacitors (C12 & C13) on the HV control card were getting hot...probably due to a high ripple current. As a load of 2800 represents a load current of only 4.3 mA, I concluded that the fault was on the HV card.

The +12 v supply is generated by an AC/DC rectifier directly off the 115 volt supply, giving a primary voltage of nearly 300 volts DC. This is chopped by a little horror of a device called a TOP247. It generates an AC waveform and drives a little transformer to generate +12 volts. This sort of circuit can be highly unstable, and it probably went into a high frequency mode, chopping at several megahertz.

Replacing the HV control card solved the problem. I have retained the card, and I intend to reverse engineer it's schematic, then try to repair it. The card cost about $150, but the actual defective component is unlikely to cost more than a few dollars, and I have a suspicion that the two electrolytic capacitors (C12 & C13) may be the cause.

This repair was really easy. I first removed the water evaporator tray exposing 2 nuts and removed them with driver. Detach the dispenser faceplate and unplug the connections from the circuit board. Remove 2 more nuts holding the dispenser yoke paddle.

Remove the snap in paddle and replace with new part and spring. Complete assembly in reverse order. 10 minutes to complete repair.

First I removed the icemaker from the freezer by removing two horizontal screws holding it to the side wall, and one vertical screw holding the front to a bracket coming off the side wall. Then I used a flat screwdriver to unlock the electrical plug. (After doing this, I realized that this wasn't necessary at all, and this part could have been changed just as easily without removing the icemaker.) On the front, there is a white cover with Ice Maker Plus. Use a flat screwdriver to unlock the tangs and remove the cover. There are three screws in the corners that once removed, will allow the motor assy. to be gently pulled straight out. On the back of the part, you will see many gold lands that the timer touches. I don't think there was anything wrong with my motor. I had two spots where the gold plating was worn off, so I suspect it was not making contact, and the whole process would stop. Slide the new part in place making sure the teeth on the gears line up (not a big deal), and secure with the screws. Install cover and you're done. Mine has been making ice like it was brand new.

Took two times getting the correct part, however after getting the correct part it took about 10-minutes to replace. Had to take the fan out. When you put the new drip pan in make sure it is positioned so that the guides on the pan aligns with slots in the bottom refrig brace, otherwise back pannel will not align correctly. The fan is very easy getting aligned in the new tray. May take a little effort. I do not know why the pan on a refrighterator that is less than 5-years old could start breaking into many pieces.

This is the 2nd time I had have had to replace the center rail in 2 years....

Removed all of the bottom drawers and shelvs, then removed the end panel that contained the broken Deli cover hinge pin. Replaced with new panel, cleaned all of the existing parts and ten re-assembled.

I used board levers to do one side at a time.Kinda tricky, but you can hoist up fridge high enough to replace wheels. take your time think it out and be safe . Make sure you use saftey boards to support load to protect yourself==good luck A small mirror may help to see how the rollers alien in the supports.

After the repairman came and was going to charge me 500.00 to fix, I got on the net and found this site. Located the issue, part, and ordered it. The only trouble I had was locating the board in the fridge? It's right in the back behind the metal door, duh. Unplug each wire harness, pull board out and replace the board and plug harnesses back in. Took under 5 minutes from start to finish. It took longer to program it, after two tries I re-read the program instructions sent with the board and presto it works perfectly!!! A Big thanks to part select.com. ps if the fridge is cooling correctly you can take the top left cover off unplug the harness there and get a few days worth of cool out of it before it goes out completely but I would suggest the overnight ship if you are already dead, 24 bucks is a small price to pay to be up and running within 24 hours.

First I removed the drawers and shelf above the pantry drawer and then removed the pantry drawer. The end cap came off very simply by removing two screws. I removed the slide attachment to the old end cap and attached it two the new end cap. I then installed the new end cap and replaced the drawers and shelf. The lid to the chef pantry popped right in place. Job complete.

Since it was apparent the crisper glass is fragile I was very careful to not stress it. I opened the box then took a large board almost as big and slid it on. I carried both items to the fridge and with both doors open slid the glass into place. I am 65 yrs. Old and have owned many refrigerators but this is a first. They don't build them like they use to. .

Removed the metal cover over the HV electronic board on the back of the unit. Using a flat head screwdriver I unsnapped the plastic cover and removed it. I unplugged the 5 or 6 cables from the electronic board. Bent back the plastic tabs holding the board. You might think they are going to break but they bend. I lifted the board out and replaced it with the new one. Then plugged the cables in being careful to align them first. I then applied power and the refrigerator came to life. I followed the programming instructions that came with the refrigerator. You can get those online also. The unit began to run and in a few minutes the compressor came on. The unit began cooling and life was good again!

The end cap is a very easy job to remove. Removed the three screws that hold the end cap in place using a 1/4 drive socket. Removed sliding rail which is affix to end cap to be reused with new end cap. Installed new end cap with the three screws and your done very easy. What made the job possible was the ability to identify the part from the PartsSelect.com web site which has excellent parts identification catalog.

Ordered a new Dispenser Front Overlay, removed the housing from the refrigerator, unplugged the old Overlay and pealed it off, applied the new Overlay (taking care to line it up correctly), plugged in the new Overlay and reinstalled the housing. Works great!