MER6751AAW Maytag Range - Instructions

I first removed the drawer from under the oven, then I used 2 strips of packing tape to hold the front glass in place. Next I loosened the 4 screws on the bottom side of the door to the point just before they would fall out. Next I had someone help hold the glass as we removed the tape and slid the glass from under the handle and set it aside. Once the glass was off I removed the 4 screws on top of the door and the 4 screws (2 each side) holding the handle brackets. From that point it was just a couple of screws on the back of the handle to swap the broken part for new and reassembling everything. Could be done in 30 minutes, 40 by yourself. Maytag wants $24 to tell you how to do this, it's not worth the money. Also, PartSelect.com sold me the part for 30% than Sears or Maytag advertise - they've earned a permanent bookmark in my browser!

I pulled the range away from the wall to gain access to the back.I turned off the power to the range at the circuit breaker panel. I unscrewed all little screws on top of back plate then removed it carefully.I took several pictures on the connections to the ECR board.I watched a video on You Tube which was helpful.The difficulty was getting the connectors off without breaking them. By carefully putting the edge of the flat blade screwdriver under each connector and twisting it gently I was able to get this little plastic locking pin to let go.Once this pin unlocked I was able to remove the connector from the prongs on the range. After removing the ECR board I carefully removed the decal from the front of the old board by pushing the edge of a sharp putty knife slowly under the decal. Following the pictures I took I was able to connect the new ECR board connectors properly and re-assemble the board into the top of the range after attaching the decal being careful to line it up properly.Once the range was back against the wall I turned on the power and set the clock then proceeded to test the small top oven which now worked fine.I found the people at at this stie to be very knowledgeable about what parts are needed to fix common problems.

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

I removed door by opening it to first stop and lifted it up off the hinge's. I removed all screws that held the inner panel to the outer panel and handle. Removed inner panel from outer panel, then glass and insulation, replaced glass and insulation and panel.

Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and slid door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.

PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.

Make sure you unplug your stove before you start! You should probably shut off the power at the breaker box too.

Since the upper oven is so small, I found that I couldn't reach the connectors well enough to work with them. So I pulled out the whole oven, took the screws off the back cover and from the back I was able to easily reach where the wires connected to the element. Then it was a piece of cake.

Just use a small knife to unbend the little metal things that hold on to the metal ends of the element. Slide them on to the new element, and crimp them tight with pliers.

Oh, you also have to take off the bracket on the ceiling of the inside of the oven to get the old element out, and the new one in.

The oven has been working great!

First, I would like to appreciate providing a diagram of the product with a clear schematic. It was very easy to identify the item that I was looking for(an element). The serial number shown against the schematic enabled me to identify the item and pace the order.

Second, the item was delivered on time as promised.

Finally, the item that I purchased was very easy to replace. It came in as a full assembly. Just removed 4 screws, removed the damaged element and plugged in the new one. Thats it!!!

l certainly recommend this site to others to perform a self repair of their home appliances.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

looked for how to video on you tube. It saved me lots of money. Anyone could do it.

Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.

Repair would have only taken minutes, but upper support plate screws were rusted and almost fused to the plate. Once the plate screws were out (had to pry plate out) installation was done in 3-5 minutes.

As for the replacement part, worked perfect on the first try. Very happy with price, speed of delivery and preformance.

I had the old oven rack in the oven when I cleaned it. The rack came out brown and would not slide easily. The new rack was exactly the right one and now all is back to perfect!

Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought

Easy enough, hardest part was removing the original wire connectors from the original board. The connectors were on very tightly. It occured to me that it might be cost effective to send the orginal failed unit to a central remanufacturing site for say a $5 or $10 reward. You could include a label and a prepaid shipper to sent there in the boxes you sent me. This would be something a charitable company could do and would result in cost savings all around.

I unscrewed the framing trim around the door, secured the new handle to the brackets and reassembled the trim....all told its about 10 screws to remove/put back in....
Thanks to Suzanne I received the replacement handle in a very timely manner from Pars Select

Turned off breaker to oven, removed racks, unscrewed the plate holding the element in place, and pulled out the wires a few inches. All easy and fine to this point. Never having done anything like this before, I wasn't sure HOW the element was attached to the wires, so tugged on them a bit, but nothing budged. Got a flashlight (it got dark in there with the upper part of my body in there)looked again, but still couldn't tell. Referred to this site and saw reports of "plug and play", went back and examined the ends more closely on old and new element, realized that they slide straight on and straight off in a "sleeve". Got some pliars and pulled the ends apart. Slid the new end on to one wire, but couldn't get the other one on until I realized I had crushed it a bit with the pliars. Reopened the "sleeve" with a vegetable knife and slid the other end of the element into the "sleeve" at the end of the wire. Then pushed the wires back in and screwed plate on. It took about 23 minutes, and that included time to look up this site and do some reading, jump up to find a flashlight, and jump up and find a pair of pliars. My hubby was out of town for 3 weeks and suggested I wait til he got home--glad I didn't wait.