MER6751AAS Range - Instructions

1. Turned off the power supply first!
2. Unscrewed the element brackets at the back of the oven.
3. Unscrewed the bracket holding it to the top of the oven.
4. Pulled off the crimp-on leads from the ends.
5. Because you have to stick both arms all the way into the oven to manipulate the leads, I found it easier to move the oven away from the wall and unscrew the back panel. I could then push the ends of the broiler element through the back and make all the connections from back there. Then I pushed the new element back into the oven and reattached all the screws in reverse order.

First I opened the door to the oven. Then I opened the box that the part came in. (knife) I then slid the oven rack out of the box and unwrapped the plastic, being careful not to bend or scratch the new rack. Now, this is the tricky part... I had to move the existing rack down one space to make room for the new one. Then carefully slid the new rack in, tipping it slightly and sliding it in. LOL

removed back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover

Easy as pie
2 screws to loosen and 2 wires to connect on blades of element.

This job couldnt be easier. Just remember to SHUT THE POWER OFF BEFORE WORKING ON 220v stove.

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

First checked voltage to element and only getting 120 volts.
Checked web site for problem and 23% said heat sensor. Replaced heat sensor and did not fix problem. Replaced circit board and fixed problem. Solder point on relay on back of old circit board was burned. Might could have resoldered but already had new part before we took the old one out. Spent extra $50 and 2 days when should have taken out circit board first.

1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.

Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

really easy! Removed 2 screws under the glass top at the front, access from the open oven door, then removed the ground wire, removed the stove top, took the element holder off,( 2 screws)and replaced with new element, 30 minutes. I ordered the part and came within 18 hrs of ordering it, fantastic experience.

It's easy!!! I supervised my wife installing the element. She did great (probably because of my great supervision).

FIgured it was either a bad heating element or a realy expensive repair so I purchased a replacement element to rule out the simple and inexpensive possibility. Pulled oven out from wall and disconnected power supply. Removed retaining bracket from top of oven, two screws that held in heating element, disconnected from fittings, replaced with new element, and reattached screws and retaining bracket. Plugged in power supply, tested lower oven (it worked just fine) pushed oven back against the wall. Threw away the old element and packaging. Job done.

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.