MER1320BDW Maytag Range - Instructions

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know their stuff.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

I actually had to hire someone to fix the problem. My stove happened to be one of those they describe on the internet where the wires were not long enough to pull out. Had I tried it would have become a major repair job. The repairman had to use needle nose pliers to grab ahold of the wires and get them out far enough. All went well though and he only charged $25.00.

Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.

Ok this is a glasstop jenn air cce3531b, 5 burners, 11 years old. I am computer data entry employee and 56 years old. I have never done repairs myself in the past but decided to try. I ordered a new burner and indicator light as I wasnt sure which to replace. I found the main breaker and shut it off. I lifted the stovetop out of the counter opening by pushing it through the bottom and placed it on the counter with a towel under it, I had plenty of room to work so that was very easy. I used a nutdriver set to remove 12 screws and lifted off the top very carefully and placed it in the other room , since I had to repair unit thought I would also clean and replace the foam tape around the perimeter of the glasstop. Ok now I unscrewed 4 more screws with the nutdriver and replaced the indicator light, that took about 6 minutes so far. Then I turned the breaker back on and tested and it did not work. Turned breaker back off ,now I replaced the burner by lifting it out of the opening very easily, unscrewed with philips screwdriver 2 screws and the new burner was exactly the same as the existing one so I just slid the old connections off one at a time and replaced them as I went along onto the new burner, screwed it back into place and turned the breaker on and tested it and it worked. I now turned the breaker back off and took off the old foam tape from the glasstop and replaced with new, fit it back onto the base and screwed the 12 screws back in and placed it back into the counter opening and turned breaker back on and now all is fixed and I saved $100 dollars in labor fees. This took 35 minutes and was easy for me. Thanks you partselect

I removed about 6 screws and unplugged the electrical wiring. I set the new burner over the old burner, unpluging one wire at a time and plugging the wire connector to the new burner. Then I removed two screws that held the old burner to the top, and removed the burners, and replugged the master wiring harness, and reattached the top with the six screws. The big problem was that I am still waiting for my new glass top to arrive. This is the third top. The first 2 had been damaged duuring shipment and the 3rd top is back ordered. Other than that, the stove is working fine. Don

Very easy repair. Turn the power off to the oven, take out two screws and unhook electrical connections. Replace with the new baking element and you are done. Takes only about 10 minutes and the oven works like new.

Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.

From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

Pretty straightforward repair.

Remove the storage drawer under the door.

Remove the top trim piece that holds the plastic trim to the door.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the front panel glass trim in place and slide the panel out from under the door trim.

Remove the door trim from the door by removing the side screws (1 each side) and the 2 on the front.

Remove the handle from the trim by removing the 4 retaining screws.

To re-assemble, reverse the process.

Total time: 15 to 30 minutes.

Put a new one in.

To better access the bottom screws, I removed the door by opening it to the first open position and lifting it up off the hinges. No tools are needed for this but careful, the door IS heavy! Place on table or counter top. Remove the Phillips screws, old trim, and clean the outside of door. Position new trim and replace with the new screws provided. By securing the new trim, I did not have to worry about the glass sliding out when flipping the door to clean the inside. Finish by sliding the door back on the hinges. Looks like brand new!

Side Notes: One of the side pieces of the trim was fairly bent when received. Since the misshapen piece was nicely painted i.e. parted when bent, this was a Maytag (Whirlpool) supplier issue and NOT a PartSelect issue. Rather then damaging the paint bending this piece back to fit the door, I reused the old side piece which was in great shape.

Thanks PartSelect , you're the best!

I removed all the screws that held the trim and inner frame to the outside window unit first. Then, I removed a protective glass from over the two inner panes. Next after removing the frame that held the two inner glass panes together, I took the broken inner glass pane out and replaced it with the new one. Then basically I just retraced my steps and had the door put back together in about 45 minutes. You just need to pay close attention to your disassembly so that you are able to put the pieces back together quickly.