MEDB855DW1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

My way of replacing the pulley was much faster than the parts select video that showed how to replace the belt tension-er pulley. They took off the door, the entire front AND the drum to get to the pulley. I ACCESSED THE PULLEY BY REMOVING THE 4 INCH EXHAUST PIPE, (ONE SCREW) WHICH GAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH OPENING TO REPLACE THE NEARBY PULLEY! I suggest you remake that video

We only had to tilt the dryer enough to be able to screw the leveling leg in place.The only hard part was holding the dryer steady to screw in the leveling foot.

Removed existing parts and replaced with new high limit thermostat and thermal fuse kit,replaced flue and tested. Worked like a charm.

Dryer was making intermittent squealing noises sometimes it was amazingly loud, sometimes not so bad. Still, I figured this couldn't be good so I wanted to find a fix. Read the stories here and everything pointed to the 'idler pulley', so I figured I'd give it a try. For me, access was the hardest part -- my laundry room is small and I can't easily get the dryer out or move it around. Not a problem with the part, just my own setup. Important to note that this repair is best done through the BACK of the unit, not the front. Once I got access to the back (removing AC and Water used for the 'steam dry feature') I also had to disconnect several of the electrical connectors to get the unit fully apart. Good news -- the actual replacement of the pulley took about 1 minute! It was just all of the moving and disassembly that took so long. The original idler pulley had worked its way off of the shaft and was out of place and causing the squealing. All is well now, and I saved a bunch by doing it myself. No more squealing!

Ordered the fuse first hoping it was just that simple, watched the video for how to replace, first step was to take the back of the dryer off, well I order to take the back off I had to take off the Electrical Cord, as well as he top of the dryer. Only to find out he part I was replacing was not back there. Found the tech sheet attached within he dryer though, and as it turns out only needed to take he front bottom panel off. Without testing he continuity I was just giving this a shot, the Thermal fuse did no fix it, so I tried the high Limit Thermostat and Fuse kit still no luck. Took out the Element to find I was physically cracked in 2 pieces, replaced that and I was back up and running. And all parts were found in the bottom front panel of the dryer, so beware before you watch the video and take our whole dryer apart like I did.

First tried repairing the old idler by cleaning and lubricating the shaft. That lasted for about a week but the squealing returned. Ordered the part and had it in a few days. Replaced the idler wheel and it's been quietly running like new for several weeks now. Now wife thinks I'm Superman.

Had previously replaced the heater coil (purchased from PartSelect) and fixed the no heat problem. Should have taken advice given on this site and replace the thermostat and thermal fuse kit at that time. Since I knew how to remove the assembly it was easier this time. Just remove, unscrew the two parts and replace with the new ones. Reattach the wires and reinstall the assembly and it is now working again. Also vacumed the inside and trimed and replaced the exhast vent hookup for less restriction.

Disconnected the power and duct from the dryer. Removed the back and top of the dryer by removing the 1/4" screws. Created slack in the belt by compressing the spring and moving the idler arm.Slid the belt off the pulley. Removed the tri-ring clip, slid the old pulley and gasket off. Cleaned and inspected the shaft and vacuumed the inside of the dryer. replaced the gasket, pulley and tri-ring clip. Replaced the top and back of the dryer. Connected duct and power.

Removed the top panel of the dryer via a couple of screws from the rear. Remove the rear panel swing it open light a door to the right, minding the electrical connections. Removed the belt from the pulley, removed the Tri-ring from the shaft and slid the pulley off of the shaft. The shaft was slightly rusted so I used a steel brush and brake cleaner to clean it up, placed the new gasket, pulley, and tri-ring on, replaced the belt, and put the panels back into place. As the dryer is about 7 years old, also removed the front lower panel and cleaned out unit which had quite a bit of accumulated dust and glitter especially in the vent lines. (3 girls live here). Pretty easy, most screws remove with just the one tool.

Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )

UNPLUG UNIT FIRST!!! Removed back cover. Make sure to note not all screws hold the back cover by closely observing the screw. Take a picture of the belt routing before removing from the idler pulley. Use headlamp or flashlight to light up pulley area. Remove belt from idler pulley by pushing idler assembly towards the right. Use small screwdriver to remove the existing pulley by prying off the existing tri-ring from the back of the pulley. You may have to "feel" the ring since it in facing away from you. Once tri-ring is removed, slide off old pulley and gasket or old second tri-ring. Replace with gasket first, then pulley then tri-ring. Reroute belt. Use picture if needed. Replace back cover.

Once I watched a YouTube video showing me how to do the job I ordered the part from you. Am so impressed with your fast shipping and best prices via the Internet. Thank you SO much! The water level switch was easy to install, it ws getting the cover on the washer back on that was hard for me since I am 68 yrs old and have a bad knee. Its why it took me two hours to do what most people could do in 20 minutes.

The repair went great . Thanks for the part ,will be purchasing parts from you now on.

My husband changed the idler pulley. It took him 5 min. Thank you sooooooooooo much. Saved us 1000.00 dollars. He wanted to by a new one but investigated the problem on line. He is a handyman and was just being lazy. I ordered the part and he fixed it. I love saving money!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I love my husband!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

parts were for a dryer that would not tumble or heat they did not fix problem have called in pro hope he can fix