MEDB835DW3 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Turn off electric to unit.
Remove lint trap.
Remove lower cover below dryer door. 1 grey clip on either side. Bend upper portion of the clip down while pulling forward on panel.
Remove 4 1/4 inch bolts that hold blower duct to fan.
Push pulley upward while removing belt.
Use a small angled pick to remove pulley lock ring.
Install new washer and pulley. I added grease to pulley shaft.
Hope this helped. Good luck

pull the back off and replace the pulley.

Disassemble dry. Put on new pulley wheel. Greased pulley wheel. Put dryer back together. Works great. Yours truly G.B.

Very easy repair... The video was really helpful too. I was able to find a different video that was closer to our model. (Front Loader HE) It probably took me a little longer than needed but I took the time to shop-vac everywhere I could, since it was all easy to get to. I opted for next day shipping so the shipping charges were more than the part. Tools I used were: Cordless drill-screw driver, 1/4in. socket, Phillips head bit and needle nose pliers for the control panel connections. Thank you again for making this so easy. Saved us a lot money by not calling an appliance repair tech.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

Removed the top, removed lower front cover, removed the front, removed the belt, removed the drum and the back. Removed and replaced roller support shaft and drum roller’s. Completed all Front and rear support for drum. Replaced drum , replaced drum roller belt and replaced back, completed replacement of the top, front.

YOU NEVER SENT ME THE PARTS!!!
I had to drive to a parts store to find them. On January 17, 2024, I tried to call you when the parts did not arrive and your recording said there were no reps available and you hung up. WE CANNOT GET HELP TO CANCEL THIS ORDER. We have been going in circles with PartSelect and shipping. SO, how do I get my refund of the $107.26 for the parts that I never received!!

Pulled the back panel off with nut driver , reached in removed belt from pulley , disconnected the spring , removed the the 1 bolt holding the bracket .
Put the new one in , in reverse order . Very simple , maybe 15 minutes total . While back is off , shop vac out any lint !!

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.

Removed the lower front cover of the dryer. Removed the lint filter and removed the cover from the air duct by removing two 1/4" bolts. Removed the two 1/4" bolts retaining the thermistor. Installed the new thermistor and covers.

Using some advice here on this website, and a youtube video found by searching for 'idler pulley replacement' I was able to fix my dryer! Taking off the screws was simple, I used a cordless drill. I have some trouble removing the kick panel, and bent the latches, so there is a small gap between the dryer door panel and the kick panel, but it still works fine. Of note, you DO NOT need to remove the back panel, something I did and cost me some time. I am a bigger guy, so maneuvering on the floor to rig the dryer belt around the new idler pulley "in the dark" was cumbersome, but doable. All in all, an easy enough project for under $30 and less than an hour of my time. Kudos to this website, first, for the super fast shipping, and secondly, the reviewers who posted some instruction. Great job!

Disconnect the dryer from the power source and vent hose. Using the nut driver, remove all hex screws and the electric access panel from back of dryer. Loosen the electrical service cable clamp screws with philips screw driver and disconnect the ground wire. Remove the top panel from the dryer cabinet and the screws that hold the electrical bus in place, then remove the back panel from the dryer. Feed the electrical cable through the cable clamp and rest the back of the dryer against the side. Remove the tri-ring and old idler pulley, then clean and lubricate (WD40) the axel, and install the new pulley and tri-ring. Replace the back panel and all screws.

diognostic suggested thermal fuse or thermistor. Thermistor tested low resistance (<2K olms). Replaced thermistor and dryer heat returned.

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.