MED6400TQ0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

The door catch dislodged in the door and apparently broke. The hardest part was getting it out of the door because in trying to remove it, the piece fell into the inside of the door. I could have easily just installed the new part (it snaps right in with great ease, that part took exactly 5 seconds). But hearing that old piece rattle around inside the door would have made me a little nuts. So I decided to take the door apart to retrieve it. It was just a bunch of screws from around the perimeter of the door, but I also had to unhinge it to do the job. Putting the door back together wasn't as easy as I had hoped, with some pretty tight fits and the glass dislodging. Had a few moments where I was regretting. But I got the old part out, snapped the new one right in. I'm sure an appliance guy would have charged me $60 - 90 just for coming out. Instead I repaired the dryer for the cost of a $3 part. One small lesson learned here -- dryer doors are much like refrigerator doors, or at least mine is. There is a door catch on both sides of the door so you can hinge it to open either way. I could have done the repair for nothing! But I love parts select for just this reason. I don't do major repairs, but replacing pieces on appliances couldn't be easier with this service!

i took the back apart to find the problem, then i went online to findout how tomremove the blower wheel, just googled it. Easy!Took itnall apart, just had a bit of trouble getting the wheel off, was on there very very tight. Ordered it through you, easy, and very very quick, received it in a day. I got an email explaining the reassembly process. Easy. Just follow it to a t and you will be fine. As a woman, this was an easy fix.

Un-plug dryer. Remove front of dryer. Remove spring from idler arm. remove screw from idler arm. Replace idler arm. install screw to idler arm. replace spring to idler arm. Make sure belt is running on arm wheel correctly. Replace front of dryer. Plug dryer in.

Turned off power and pulled power plug from the wall. Removed the two screws at the lint screen. Raised the top to by depressing the top spring clips. Removed the two 5/16" screws from front top. Removed wiring clips from front panel. Set the front aside while I removed the two broken panel clips. Installed the two new panel clips. reinstalled the front panel by placing the front panel above the sides. Opened the front panel door and supported the drum while allowing the front panel to slide down onto the new front panel clips. Reinstalled the wiring clip. reinstalled the two 5/16 screws. Turned the drum to ensure that the felt seals and drive belt weere installed properly. Lowered the top and reinstalled the two screws at lint screen. Reinstalled power plug and turned on power. No rattles or squeeks!!!

As in the video: inserted putty knife behind catch lip above and below the catch. Video shows only doing on top or bottom, but need to do both and then pry out while pushing towards the center of the catch up and down. Not as easy coming out as in the video. Putting new catch in was easy...just slide into hole.

I watched the video, took a knife and released the outer catches on the stainless steel spring clip, but part of the broken catch was inside the clip crossways and would not let the clip come out. I had a set of hook shaped picks (from Harbor Freight) and I tried to pull out the broken piece, but it fell inside the door. I was then able to pull out the spring steel clip, and push the new part in and it caught. I left the broken parts inside the door, thinking it would not hurt anything. Door latches OK now.

Popped the old catch out (but was not as easy to get out as described) but did pop back in very easily! The video was a great help!

popped old catch out put new catch in

Very easy, viewed the you-tube video and followed the instructions. Simply, unplug dryer, remove back panel (4 nuts), open back, remove one screw that holds board in place and slide left to remove. Take a picture of wire configuration to ensure you reconnect the same way. For the most part it is self explanatory for the exception of the hot wire and two ground wires and proceed to disconnect wires, install new board by reconnecting wires and proceed to replace back cover. Reconnect power source and get to drying.

As showed in the video, it was simple. Popped out the broken catch and popped in the new catch, less than a minute. Thanks for the video.

Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )

Following the instruction video, using screw driver to remove the old one and push in the new one by hand.

The catch did not just slip out. I had to take door apart and then still had a tough time getting the latch out. I had to pry it out with a screw driver. It did not just slip out the front like some people said.

The door catch assembly is designed to slide into a hole stamped in the sheet metal. Normally, the repair only requires the use of pliers to grasp the top and bottom of the catch, compressing them enough to slide the catch out of the door. The new catch can be inserted through the hole and snapped into place the same way. In my case, the catch was a very tight fit, so I had to remove the door from the dryer, remove the screws that hold the outside and inside door sections together, replace the damaged door catch, reassemble and re-mount the door. Having to do that increased the completion time for a simple repair that would normally take less than five minutes.

Clean the old seal area. I let it dry for a couple hours, just to be safe. Rubber gloves, I applied the adhesive to the door all away around the seal molding space. Then inserted the rubber seal. Going around with my finger pushing the seal tightly into place. Let dry over night and the next day I closed the dry and let it finish drying. Then came the washing day and the dryer worked like a charm.