MDE3000AZA Maytag Dryer - Instructions

After changing all the rollers in the dryer (which didn't fix the problem) I decided to take apart the blower. Sure enough, that was the problem. As the dryer heated up, the damaged wheel would swell and start rubbing the housing. I replaced both and fixed the problem. The repair was pretty easy, since I had taken the dryer apart several times replacing the rollers.

popped out old female clasp on dryer itself with screwdriver, undid 2 screws on dryer door and door handle with phillips screwdriver, popped in new male clasp part, put door knob back on and put the two screws back in door and it was all set to go. Less than 15 minutes to do. Better than new and wife is happy. No more duct tape holding door closed now.

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

Well, I had to find out just how the dryer came apart. Most of the time, the back comes off but with this particular Maytag, it is the front that has to be removed. Once the four screws from either side are removed, the front pops off and the canister that holds the heating element is right there on the bottom. Cleaning away years of lint was fun but the heating canister was removed quickly using two screws and removing four wires that attached to the unit. Once the screws were removed (top back and bottom front) and the wires removed, the replacement unit slid right in without any problems. The regulator on the old unit had to be transferred to the new unit before installation. I closed up the front, put the four screws back in and snapped the front closed and the dryer worked perfectly.

Pull the electric plug. With a nut driver and phillips screw driver remove two bolts and three screws on the rear access plate. Gently pull the knob from the front pannel and with the nut driver remove the two bolts under the knob. The timer is now loose from the drver. Match the wire plug codes on the old and new timers. Remove one wire at a time from the old timer with pliers and plug it onto the new timer on the same coded pin. Slide the timer back into the pannel and replace the two bolts that hold it. Replace the knob. Replace the three screws and two bolts holding the back pannel. Plug the electric cord back into the wall socket.

My 11 year old grandson and I did the repair together. He had a blast and I did too. First we removed a bunch of screws that got us no closer to getting the machine apart than when we started. Then I remembered from the last time I had the machine apart that there are two screws just below the door, angled as not to be visable unless you know where to look. Once we removed those the from came off. We removed the wires for the door light and heat sensor, remembering the order of the wires for later reinstallation. Then we undid the bolts holding down the top. Once the top was removed we took off the belt and removed the drum. We used the retainer pliers to remove the retainer ring from the first roller. We removed the roller and also the shaft as this roller was the noise maker and the shaft was not in reusable condition. We installed a new shaft, roller washer, roller, another roller washer and then the retainer ring. We repeated the same process on the other roller, although we did not replace the shaft as it was in good condition. It turned out I did not need to order the shaft washers as the rollers came with washers. Oh well, its not a good job unless you have parts left over when you are done. Once we replaced the rollers we commenced reinstallation. But first we had to google for diagram of the proper belt installation, which we found and that got the drum and belt installed properly. Thankd god for the internet. Once we had the drum installed we put the machine back together in the opposite order we took it apart. An operational test showed we did the job right, no more squeaking. The only injury was my grandson cut his thumb right after I gave him the speech about watching where your hand is going to end up when that bolt breaks free. It broke loose and into the metal bracket went his thumb. Oh well it was a good lesson and it was not a bad cut. All in all a good repair.

Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.

Unscrewed the two fasteners, rerouted one wire using a wire coat hanger, plugged in the new moisture sensor to the two wires and fastened the the sensor in place using the two existing screws.

Piece of cake. Used flat screwdriver to pry out female part on cabinet side, same with the male part on door. Every new replacement part was tight and operated like new. Thanks Part Select, you'll be forever on my list of online parts buying.

I took out screws holding top to dryer & raised the top & proped it up to gain access to inside of the dryeeer drum. I then inatalled the new baffle & secured it with 2 screws. It would have been better if the part came with new screws.It was hard to determine which was the right screws for this application.

I troubleshot the repair using the repair help section from Parts Select. It made finding the problem a snap. I then removed the four wires and two screws that held the heating element in place. Removed two screws that held thermal fuse in place and replaced. By accomplishing the repair myself I saved well over a hundred dollars.

Removed one screw and took out old broken door strike, replaced with new door strke and put screw back in. Only took two three days to get the part. The dryer is as good as new!

Yanked the front panel, observed motor operation while my smoking hot wife started the unit. Our washer and dryer get beaten like rented mules with kid laundry. I tried this site, and decided to spend a little $$ on a replacement motor. I was impressed with the operator, she even asked what the symptoms were and helped to avoid wasting time and money.
The part arrived on time, and installed quickly. I am a hero in my wife's eyes, and that certainly carries weight.
Then again, I didn't have to dispose of the old dryer, pay for a new one, or haul the replacement upstairs.
Win-win!

Removed the dryer front, then detached the retainer ring holding the blower wheel in place. Set the new blower wheel, attached the new ring retainer and placed the dryer front back in place. Thank you for the low prices - I searched on-line at 3 sites and you were the best price available.

This was fairly easy, I have had the dryer front off before. Unplug dryer from electrical outlet. Pull dryer away from wall. Remove the dryer door, open dryer door there are 2 phillips screws on dryer door hing, remove these crews then lift gently and remove door, across from these screws, where dryer door closes into face cover of dryer remove 2 more phillips screws. From top of face cover, pull out front of face cover and lift to remove face cover of dryer. On each side of dryer on the front, after removing the front cover is a 5/16 bolt, remove these and pull off retaining bracket with a twisting motion. You now can lift the top of the dryer up. You can now see the barrel drum. Rotate barrel by hand so the broken baffle is on top. Remove two 5/16 bolts, and replace new baffle in place. Reassemble in reverse order of disassemble.